Ok so I have a coleman TM9V060B12MP11A kicks on then off like its the flame sensor I'm getting ignition lock out due to retries code. Received new flame sensor and I'm still getting the same problem. So I pulled and cleaned the burners and still the same problem. Next I pulled the board and cleaned it up no obvious signs of bad/cracked solder joints, capacitors look good, and no corrosion in the terminals. Micro amps read all over at the flame sensor but I have a constant 104v going to the flame sensor and I'm getting .05 micro amps at the board (board calls for .1). I have checked that I'm getting a good ground from the breaker box and hot/ground is 120v common/ground is 0v polarity is correct hot/transformer is 96v. Any ideas before I breakdown and call Hvac repair

[color=#383a3b]I haven't had too many issues with my furnace over the years but last month it wouldn't start. It has never done that before. The furnace is about 16 years old. The technician came in and said that it was a loose wire. Today, again, it will not start. I went down to look at the furnace (it's in a crawlspace, ugh) and my head hit the pipe that is connected to the top of the furnace, just gently, and the furnace fired up. It wouldn't run an hour later and this time I pushed on the furnace door and it fired it up. I noticed that the furnace, when it does run, doesn't seem to finish up quite the same way. Usually you hear the furnace shut off and the fan runs for a while before it, too, shuts down, but now it seems like once the desired temperature is reached, it just shuts down completely all at once. This summer the AC was replaced and they had issues getting it to run properly but they eventually got the AC to function but I remember the technicians really banging around that furnace door a lot. I'm not sure how to proceed with this situation. Could the same wire that was loose before be loose again?[/color]