Carrier furnaces, 33/13 error codes, tried some stuff, stuck
Hi, I have two Carrier Weathermaker 8000 furnaces. Neither will ignite. In both cases, I replaced very dirty filters with clean ones.
Furnace #1 - 58WAV070-F-16112 66,000 BTU, 3-Burner, 80% AFUE
Unit turns on, draft inducer starts running with no code; eventually a code 13 shows, then blower motor comes on. replaced the hot surface ignitor, removed and cleaned the limit switch (there is no rolloff switch on these furnaces). Still not working.
Furnace #2 - 58WAV045 44,000 BTU, 2-Burner, 80% AFUE
Unit turns on, immediately the blower motor comes on, 33 code shows immediately, then ultimately a 13 code. replaced the hot surface ignitor (previous one crumbled), blower motor is a little squeaky but was running successfully with squeaks for a long time.
Ok..... when looking closer it says "when used". They must be used on larger furnaces.
Yours uses the LS and FL. That's what is shown in the following picture. That's what you need to check. That device in the wire is a one-shot heat triggered safety device. It's called a pico fuse.
Thanks @PJmax for the tips! It turns out that furnace #1 had a flipped rollout switch , which I figured out was located near the flue. Pushing the reset got that furnace working. Furnace #2 had a stuck limit switch, which as I needed a meter to confirm. Removed it, tapped it, and unstuck it, now the the furnace works! Moral to the story: I needed to change my filters sooner. Now I got those fancy Filtrete filters with the Bluetooth sensor, which tells me when to replace.
For limit switch troubleshooting, I found this video helpful..... limit switch video
Last edited by PJmax; 12-05-21 at 08:46 PM.
Reason: fixed link
Hello! I need help on turning off my wall heater safely. I had found a similar closed thread, but the control for my pilot light looks slightly different.
[img]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_1600_30f71525eac09aac5710a5112337be7106df45b8.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_1599_c898ae5d76197a76009de73cb13b9e87da6d3e40.jpg[/img]
I tried to turn pilot dial manually to the left in the OFF position, but it didn't budge. I see that there is a flathead screw on the dial, and I'm not sure if I need to loosen it in order to turn the dial? Or if I should just use a wrench and try to move the dial without loosening the screw?
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_1601_d767b9b9fc1709dbcd4e5d9ebe8fda2ae81e2788.jpg[/img]
Also, the yellow handle underneath seems to go to the gas line. Should I turn off both and in what order?
Your help is greatly appreciated!
2004 Trane XR90. When t-stat calls for heat, the exhaust fan starts and the ignitor starts heating, and after about 15s the gas valve opens. The gas ignites and then IMMEDIATELY the unit trips out and fan stops. About 2s later the fan starts up again, and it goes through this cycle anywhere from 1 to maybe 5 or 10 times, after which it stays lit and then the blower comes on and provides heat to the house. Once lit it runs uninterrupted until t-stat stops calling for heat.
It's not the flame sensor, there is not enough time passed for it to be involved. It is instant after the gas ignited. I replaced the pressure delta switch, no fix. I have cleaned out the air inlet line and it is clear, and once the furnace does light it works just fine and never trips out, so that seems to confirm inlet is not restricted because if it were then it would trip later. Note: if I disconnect the inlet line at the top of the furnace and let it draw in room air, it will light normally. I know the pressure switch is looking for lower pressure on the outlet, but I suspect when the gas fires, the expansion of the gas momentarily causes a pressure rise and then it trips the p-switch. I think disconnecting the 4" inlet PVC gives the backpressure rise from the gas firing somewhere to go?
I've had the furnace guys out twice and no fix. Has anyone seen this before?