New house, a lot of questions - Starting with HVAC
Hey all, first post here (yay), and I have some questions regarding my HVAC.
Everything is located in the mechanical closet in the basement. The furnace, and what I assume is the return, sit on top of a plywood base. I've confirmed the base is pulling air in from the gaps between it and the concrete floor which just sounds sketchy and a no-no from my perspective, but I am not a trained HVAC technician.
Looking for help and advice (also, let me know if I need to be in a different sub).
I've confirmed the base is pulling air in from the gaps between it and the concrete floor
Sure there may be some gaps there, no more than any of the joints in the duct work, but I bet a majority of the air is coming down that big duct on the left side!
I've had, and seen, applications like that, using wood framing to support the HVAC equipment it's pretty common for homes build on slabs.
Remember, your introducing humidity, not water into the air so it's not like the wood is getting soaked.
It's always good to seal openings in your system, caulk the joint on the floor, use electrical putty to seal openings in ducts, Mylar tape on seams, makes for a more efficient system.
Interesting installation. Typically there would not be a wood base and the return ductwork would go directly into the bottom left side of the furnace. Doesn't matter if it's on a slab. Same installation slab vs basement floor. Usually a box like that is used if there is an additional return connected to it.
Although it's not ideal to have the humidifier on the return side.... it's usually ok.
The couple homes we had in CA had the "box" because the upstairs return air came down via the duct and the downstairs return air came into the box without any duct work.
Hi experts,
My home is equipped with Trane XR80 TUD040C924K furnace. Several days ago it started to work inproperly. After several tries I got the pattern:
1. The red light shows 3 blinks. This is the general situation.
2. If I turn the power off, then turn it on, it started to work normally and blows out hot air
3. But it can't restart once it's stoped due to the temperature set.
4. When the temperature is met, it stops and the light flashes slowly (indicating no heat needed)
5. After a while the light flashes fast, indicating it's trying to start the ignitor
6. Then the fast flash turns to 3 flashes indicating an error on air presure switch.
7. But when I turn the power off, and after a while turn it on, it can start the ignitor as usual.
8. The filter is not dirty.
9. I tried to blow air into the tube connecting to the air pressure switch according to some videos on the website.
10. The air pressure switch is honeywell C341750P03 or MP2168, 0511D3/B, IS20137-3312. I don't know which one identifies it.
I bought a ohmmeter yesterday but it's still on the way of shipping. However I don't think it's because the air pressure switch is bad because it can work normally everytime I disconnect and reconnect the power. Before calling some technicians to my home, could someone help me to do more by myself?
Please excuse my poor English and help me out. Thank you!
Hi All,
My York Stellar furnace was working fine last winter. Turned thermostat on a month ago and the following happened:
1. Ventor motor/fan comes on. Check it and it is turning/working. Just stays on...
2. Measured ignitor voltage....does NOT have 120vac...Ignitor is 45 ohms...seems ok
3. Replaced pressure switch...no luck
4. Replaced older White Rodgers ignition module (50E47-70) with new universal 50E47-843
5. 50E47-843 turns yellow for 2 sec (Internal test) then starts flashing fast yellow.
6. The 50E47-843 trouble shooting guide say "improper polarity" and to switch the polarity on the secondary of the 24 vac transformer. This is confusing as the unit was working last year. Is this something unique to this ignition module?
Any suggestions?
Thank you,
Steve
12-14-21, 12:50 PM
