So, I have a trane furnace [color=#222222] XE70 and the model number is TUS100A936A1. I installed a new spark igniter and relite transformer module.. I get about 30 volts to the T1 terminal of the relite (transformer) module and the T2 side will read 30+ volts, drop to zero and goes back up to 30. with the voltage drop at T2, it seems to me that the switch is closing inside the gas valve the voltage drops to zero and when it opens I get the 30 volts across the voltmeter. I don't hear any clicking, so I assume the relay on the gas valve isn't opening the valve to allow gas flow to the burners. Does this sound like the gas valve is bad?? also, would that keep the igniter from sparking? Thanks for any help[/color]

I have a York TG9S furnace. I've been dealing with the 3 blinking light issue for a number of years. Come to find out that the no-good tech that replaced the condensate pan 4 years ago, installed the wrong one. My furnace requires a 0.88 inch orifice in the condensate pan, but the one he put in only had a 0.80. Further, he left many of the ports unplugged, and lots of sagging in the pressure switch tubes. So now that all of that is fixed, and I put in the right condensate pan... I also decided it would be best to add an air gap to the condensate drain. However this is sort of a unique challenge with a horizontal install. The drain comes right out of the bottom. And due to my install being in the crawl space, there is not much room to work with. The picture below is what I ended up doing. I drew in red the tee and open air pipe I put in. This extends just above the internal trap of the condensate pan. Any plumbing or HVAC experts out there care to grade me, and let me know if I did OK? Or if this can be improved somehow? [img]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/807x605/drain_df747c1f0ab866bee1d8738b04106bb6650a65a5.png[/img]