I have a York TG9S furnace. I've been dealing with the 3 blinking light issue for a number of years. Come to find out that the no-good tech that replaced the condensate pan 4 years ago, installed the wrong one. My furnace requires a 0.88 inch orifice in the condensate pan, but the one he put in only had a 0.80. Further, he left many of the ports unplugged, and lots of sagging in the pressure switch tubes.
So now that all of that is fixed, and I put in the right condensate pan... I also decided it would be best to add an air gap to the condensate drain. However this is sort of a unique challenge with a horizontal install. The drain comes right out of the bottom. And due to my install being in the crawl space, there is not much room to work with.
The picture below is what I ended up doing. I drew in red the tee and open air pipe I put in. This extends just above the internal trap of the condensate pan. Any plumbing or HVAC experts out there care to grade me, and let me know if I did OK? Or if this can be improved somehow?
Good point. Here you go: TG9S080B12MP11A. The install manual does have an example for a vertical install where the drain comes out the side. But I haven't really been able to find an example for a horizontal install.
Very interestingly, I did come across the article listed below. Looks like some tech, somewhere, installed a tee and a vent in the rubber drain hose INSIDE the furnace cabinet. That sounds just crazy to me.
Hi everyone,
I have an 8 year old Coleman furnace that is having ignition issues. What happens is the furnace fan turns on as normal when heating is required, and then gas begins to flow in. After that the furnace might light, other times it does not. Sometimes it will light after the second or third attempt. If after three attempts it doesn't ignite it locks out as it should, and I have to turn the furnace power off and then on again to reset it.
Attempted fixes have been to clean the flame sensor which didn't help. Then we changed out the ignition switch which didn't help either. Next recommendation is to swap out the motherboard. Wondering if I am on the right track here or if I should try something else? Thanks!
Hi. I have a Rinnai 1004 propane wall heater. It has a built-in control panel / thermostat. I currently have it plugged into a smart switch so that I can turn it on/off remotely (this is for a short-term rental property, and we're not local). This works okay but gives me just the bare minimum amount of control -- e.g. I can't set or change the temperature and currently I can't even tell what the temperature is on this level of the house (could fix that separately if needed).
As a bit of an aside, the lower level is heated with baseboard heaters. I wired these to two 240v / 24v relays (one for each circuit), and connected them to a Nest thermostat so I can set and monitor the temp for the entire lower level. This is working well.
I'd like to do something similar upstairs w/the Rinnai heater. Use a Next thermostat and an Aube 120v / 24v relay. So the Rinnai would be switched on/off directly, and the Nest would be the "source of truth" for the room/are temperature. This would get me me much closer to the ultimate solution.
The ultimate solution would be the ability to connect a low-voltage thermostat directly to the Rinnai but I understand my model does not support this.
If I move forward, I would essentially turn the Rinnai up to a high level e.g. 75 or HI, and it would just be turned on/off based on the Nest's signal.
[b]Question: [/b]is this a bad idea -- specifically...
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[*]Is it okay to turn the Rinnai on/off by cutting the power, regularly?
[*]Am I going to have issues having the Rinnai set to e.g. 75 or HI all the time and having it act as a dumb heater?
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Thanks!
01-26-22, 09:29 PM
