Intermittent heat cutting off and power loss at thermostat
Hello,
I have a 9 year old Bryant gas furnace model 986ta42060v17-a. It had professional inspection last year.
2 story house, with separate unit for each floor. This unit is on the first floor, the furnace is in the crawl space, and has fan-assisted exhaust.
Intermittent trouble with heat cutting off and thermostat goes blank - the blower still runs until thermostat comes back on, which is usually within a minute. A few times it would not come back on, while I was at work of course, and I had my wife turn off the breaker for a minute and everything came back on.
There is a c wire and the thermostat does not use batteries.
I reseated all connections on the board, checked and tightened thermostat wires at both ends.
Since the problem is intermittent and I wanted to rule out the thermostat I ran wires off the R & C terminals at the thermostat, put the faceplate back on and connected a meter so I could watch the voltage and the thermostat display at the same time.
The blower door switch is taped closed and the blower door is in place.
When the system is sitting idle, or just the blower is on, there are 27 volts at the thermostat. When the heat is on, 25 volts. When the display goes blank, volts drop to 0.
I then remove the blower door to check the status code light and it is solid; no codes.
Because it’s intermittent and short duration, or cuts off when I’m not home, I’m not able to test anything at the furnace during the power cut.
This leads me to a power supply to the thermostat issue, but I’m not sure where to go first.
I’d rather not replace parts without a test, but don’t see any other option.
Intermittent trouble with heat cutting off and thermostat goes blank - the blower still runs until thermostat comes back on
That is telling you that the furnace is overheating. One of the high limit switches is opening and resetting. That board may only allow that to happen several times before going into lockout.
You need to locate what is reducing the air flow.
Check/replace filter(s), check for too many closed registers and blocked returns.
You may need to clean the blower wheel.
Hi Pete,
Thanks for the quick reply.
There is one filter, and it is changed regularly, last time was 2 weeks ago.
I verified that all the vents are open, and I looked in the blower this morning ind it isn’t dirty. Air flow through the vents has been normal.
This morning the board finally gave me a code, 1 short 3 long. Looked it up and it’s a limit switch situation.
Good call!
Since air flow is good does that point to the limit switch?
Thanks,
Jim
It's possibly a defective limit switch but poor air flow is more common.
Usually to confirm that we'll drill a small hole in the return duct and another in the supply plenum where it joins the ductwork. We'll measure the temperatures. The difference is called heat rise. Maximum heat rise is posted on the ID tag inside on the side wall near the burner.
Pete,
I drilled and checked temps. Incoming is 66 deg (we keep the house cool), after the burners is 115 for a rise of 49 degrees.
This is within the ranges on the label. (Low 30-60 deg High 40-70).
Glad to hear you got it fixed. I had a similar problem a couple of months ago, and it also turned out to be a defective high limit switch. Everything's been fine since I replaced it.
Hey Everyone!
New member here and I have absolutely no clue about hot water heating systems. I bought a 1973 GMC Coash / RV that has a complete hot water heating system in it. It is a Myson 325-2. The bus and water heating system was built with incredible detail. I had to do some repairs on some pipes and other things and now am trying to get it started.
I finally got the pilot light to light up but it was a super tiny flame but it wouldn't stay lit. I took out the thermocouple and cleaned it to basically brand new condition. It still didn't work. Then I took out the pilot tube and found some crap in it that looked like a small spider nest and some webbing. (it has been years since it's been started) so no wonder the flame was small. I reinstalled the pilot tube and started it up and BOOM! The flame lit up and scared the sh*t out of me!! The good part is that the pilot is staying lit but now it is not only coming out of the top but there are 2 small holes at the bottom of the pilot tube where the flames are coming out and it's coming out A LOT! Something is not right. Is the piece I blew out of the pilot tube supposed to be in there maybe??? OMG I have no idea.
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
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I get several of these solicitations per year via postal mail to perform a furnace "tune-up" for $79.
My usual DIY gas furnace maintenance involves replacing the filter semi-annually and eyeballing the furnace when I do that. Is there value in having a pro pop by to perform the tasks listed?
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