This is my first time up in the crawlspace and looking at the furnace.
This looks like the cover but it has aluminum tape around the edges. I don't want to mess up so I stopped here. I would like to check the capacitor and the motor in this thing.
Last edited by PJmax; 04-10-22 at 12:22 PM.
Reason: labeled picture
Hmmmmm..... not a big fan of crawl space installs.
I labeled your picture for easier discussion.
Has this ever been professionally serviced since you've been there ?
That looks like a flex line on the flue. There are many types of flex pipe like that and most are not rated for that type of use. Most techs know by looking at it. Typically flex is not used in that type of situation as it's very close to combustibles and hard to keep straight. Proper pitch is important for flue gasses to be vented out.
You need to remove the burner door to get the blower door off.
The red tape should not be there and serves no purpose.
The orange needs to be removed to get the burner door off.
The green needs to be removed to get the blower door off.
I'm guessing the tape was put on there because the furnace was sucking in crawl space air and carrying it throughout the house.
I'd like to see a picture of the burner area when you remove the cover.
I think that is corrugated duct work for the flue pipe, more pics would be helpful, just curious why you need to check the capacitor, is the blower not running?
Geo 🇺🇸
I turned off the gas and electricity to the unit just in case. I was able to remove the cover thanks to your help.
I replaced the capacitors and AC condenser fan motors when one of them failed last year. This unit is 16 year old so I just want to look up the parts just in case both blower units stopped working in 115 degree AZ heat.
I don't know about the flex line but they do sell them around here. I live in Arizona and we use the gas furnace 2-3 month max. I guess this is why it looks fine for a 16 yr old furnace
Hello. I would like to add a fan only mode to my thermostat/furnace and need some help with the wiring. My equipment is as follows:
Thermostat: Nest Learning Thermostat 3rd Gen
[b]Furnace: Comfort-Aire Patriot 80 Oil Furnace[/b]
[img]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1083x714/d1_comfort_aire_oil_furnace_c8fbedeabb19cd4c945a01f15ca1548ec29661f7.jpg[/img]
[b]Oil Primary Control: Honeywell R7284[/b]
[img]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/554x584/d2_abab7f9da5f1b9ca9a4bc0cfc016e52012931e3f.jpg[/img]
My current wiring is 2-wire (red and white) from Nest RH and W1 directly to Oil Primary Control TT.
I do not have any air conditioning and likely won’t be adding it in the future (I live in a cold area). My Nest has been working happily for years without a C wire, so it’s not a priority for me to add one if not necessary. The fan only mode is, however, a high priority. I’ve already run 18/5 Thermostat Wire but I’m not sure how to connect it.
I think the furnace and thermostat were previously connected through a fan center, but was later switched to a direct connection between the thermostat and oil primary.
Here's the fan center relay:
C | Y
R | G
| W
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/592x638/d3_cbc7a4ea0949ce0b6957a46434cf53dc55006de4.jpg[/img]
When I jumper between R and G, the fan turns on as expected.
Any help getting this figured out would be most appreciated! Thank you.
Hi, folks! Just wondering if anyone out there can tell me the problem I'm having with my oil furnace. I can trick it into igniting, but after it's been on for a while it shuts off and doesn't cut in unless I retrigger it. Might it be the thermostat perhaps?
04-10-22, 10:09 AM
Furnace cover
