On Oct. 7, 2014 inspectors inspected and approved my installation of two Goodman GMVC950453BXBA furnaces. (Here's the thread I started even before I undertook this rather challanging project. New furnace\boiler options for our home )
Short story short, almost 8 years later, the two funaces have functioned perfectly ever since the installation. Even though they were Goodman's smallest two-stage furnaces, they have kept our 1,850 ft2 (main level 1,850; basement 1,850) bungalow nice and comfortable -- exactly 71F on the main level all the time (at least at the thermostat location) and around 63 in the basement. The basement furnace runs just a small fraction of the time that the main level furnace runs. If push came to shove, I could use the basement unit as a source of parts for the main level unit and use electric space heaters to heat the basement temporarily.
Because of their age, my wife and I recently examined the secondary heat exchanger of the main-level unit. Below are a couple of photos of the furnace with the fan assembly removed and a couple of the heat exchanger looking upward toward the bottom of the furnace (from where the light is looking upward).
I am no expert by a long shot, but I think the heat exchanger looks more than acceptable. The inlet/outlet temperature rises in both furnaces are perfect.
The reason that I've started this thread is that I'm presently buying spare parts for whichever indentical furnace will inevitably have problems in the future. (The availability of parts may become an issue and I cannot afford to be without heat at -36 or even lower. What better to invest in than spare parts?) I have already purchased a new furnace control board and new gas valve. In the next few days I intend to buy a new igniter, maybe new draft-inducer assembly, two pressure switches and maybe new ECM motor -- all shown in the first photo.
1. The ECM motor 0131M00270S) is very expensive new. I have access to the same part-number, but 5-year-old motor which is supposedly in good condtion. It is no longer in a furnace, so it's impossible to know if it will actually operate correctly. The asking price is a bit over $400CAD. Would you buy that motor and, if so, what would be a reasonable offer for it? Is there a quick and easly way to test it with a multimeter? The electronics in the end bell of the motor is embedded in epoxy. Is it possible to get at and repair the failed electronic components in that end bell? (I understand that 99.9% of the time it is some component in the end bell that fails, not the motor itself.)
2. The inducer assembly (0271F00126S) is a pricey little devil, too. Most of the time, what is it that fails in this type of assmebly - the motor? the impeller disk inside? what? Can I use another part that looks virtually identical to the assembly in our unit, or do I have to stick with Goodman OEM?
3. Can I use non-Goodman pressure switches that have the same pressure specifications as the Goodman OEM (020197308 and 011177113)?
Maybe a dumb question, but how much for a complete new system these days? Would it be cheaper to buy all the parts in one package vs. piecemeal it all?
I've betten the bullet and bought a bunch of new OEM parts, so I have no more need for any advice.
So now I should be able to handle any part failure, even if parts are no longer available on the market due to "supply chain" issues, and even if it's -40 outside. That's a pretty comfortable feeling going into our next winter (around here, sometimes beginning in the month of September!).
I recently found out that my underground 550 gal. oil tank has to be removed. You are no longer allowed to have new underground tanks installed and while I have no evidence of a leak, my oil burner repairman keeps finding water in my fuel oil. He says that indicates a hole on top of the tank and water seeping in. I want to install a 275 gal. oil tank in my basement. I can't put the tank outside because my home is a corner lot. The backyard is the only area not visible from the street. But there is no room in the backyard as there is a deck back there with the steps leading to the second-floor apartment. My problem is I need ideas as to how to get a tank into the basement. The outside entrance is a small 24-inch door with a brick wall to the left and in front so only enough room to walk down the stairs and walk in the door on the right. most I have ever gotten in that way is a small washing machine. The inside entrance off the hall has a bigger door but not much maneuvering room. Suggestions please.
Hello, I have a oil furnace in the basement and the oil tank is also in the basement. There is a line going from the tank to the furnace and is buried under concrete. It is in a black sleeve and the oil is leaking out of the sleeve. So I'm assuming the inside copper line is corroded and has a crack or damaged inside the sleeve. Is it possible to disconnect the copper line and pull it out and replace it with a new copper line? Or is this something major and have to break open the concrete and dig out and replace the whole sleeve and copper together? Thank you in advance!
The oil is leaking from the sleeve but mine is a black sleeve.
[img]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/200x138/transfer_line_in_sleeve_73c4ffa658037802de6350a3870bae39ac4b4040.jpeg[/img]
06-15-22, 02:39 PM
