Hello, I have a oil furnace in the basement and the oil tank is also in the basement. There is a line going from the tank to the furnace and is buried under concrete. It is in a black sleeve and the oil is leaking out of the sleeve. So I'm assuming the inside copper line is corroded and has a crack or damaged inside the sleeve. Is it possible to disconnect the copper line and pull it out and replace it with a new copper line? Or is this something major and have to break open the concrete and dig out and replace the whole sleeve and copper together? Thank you in advance!
The oil is leaking from the sleeve but mine is a black sleeve.
Thank you for your reply! I have it closed right now, I'll try opening it again and see if its something at the base when I get back home.
The tube is quite spacious so thats why I thought I could pull it out but like you said probably should exam all aspects before pulling anything!!
Thank you again!
How time flies.
On Oct. 7, 2014 inspectors inspected and approved my installation of two Goodman GMVC950453BXBA furnaces. (Here's the thread I started even before I undertook this rather challanging project.
[url]https://www.doityourself.com/forum/gas-oil-home-heating-furnaces/514579-new-furnace-boiler-options-our-home.html[/url] )
Short story short, almost 8 years later, the two funaces have functioned perfectly ever since the installation. Even though they were Goodman's smallest two-stage furnaces, they have kept our 1,850 ft2 (main level 1,850; basement 1,850) bungalow nice and comfortable -- exactly 71F on the main level all the time (at least at the thermostat location) and around 63 in the basement. The basement furnace runs just a small fraction of the time that the main level furnace runs. If push came to shove, I could use the basement unit as a source of parts for the main level unit and use electric space heaters to heat the basement temporarily.
Because of their age, my wife and I recently examined the secondary heat exchanger of the main-level unit. Below are a couple of photos of the furnace with the fan assembly removed and a couple of the heat exchanger looking upward toward the bottom of the furnace (from where the light is looking upward).
[img]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1342x1080/furnace_1_10041ddb718769b06929b4e043940790224cd4f6.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1835/furnace_after_clean_1_8056d1deeb731bf3d024d1ceff4838cfc704fb43.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1786/furnace_after_clean_2_d937e574a7d546ae899f9671fae4fa0cb65abebe.jpg[/img]
I am no expert by a long shot, but I think the heat exchanger looks more than acceptable. The inlet/outlet temperature rises in both furnaces are perfect.
The reason that I've started this thread is that I'm presently buying spare parts for whichever indentical furnace will inevitably have problems in the future. (The availability of parts may become an issue and I cannot afford to be without heat at -36 or even lower. What better to invest in than spare parts?) I have already purchased a new furnace control board and new gas valve. In the next few days I intend to buy a new igniter, maybe new draft-inducer assembly, two pressure switches and maybe new ECM motor -- all shown in the first photo.
1. The ECM motor 0131M00270S) is very expensive new. I have access to the same part-number, but 5-year-old motor which is supposedly in good condtion. It is no longer in a furnace, so it's impossible to know if it will actually operate correctly. The asking price is a bit over $400CAD. Would you buy that motor and, if so, what would be a reasonable offer for it? Is there a quick and easly way to test it with a multimeter? The electronics in the end bell of the motor is embedded in epoxy. Is it possible to get at and repair the failed electronic components in that end bell? (I understand that 99.9% of the time it is some component in the end bell that fails, not the motor itself.)
2. The inducer assembly (0271F00126S) is a pricey little devil, too. Most of the time, what is it that fails in this type of assmebly - the motor? the impeller disk inside? what? Can I use another part that looks virtually identical to the assembly in our unit, or do I have to stick with Goodman OEM?
3. Can I use non-Goodman pressure switches that have the same pressure specifications as the Goodman OEM (020197308 and 011177113)?
Thanks for any advice.
I have an older Rheem furnace and would like change the filter. Appreciate any help for me to know what the correct filter is and where it is to be placed. Also, if anyone has a manual or instructions for this model or know where to get one - that would be very helpful.
I tried the Rheem site but my serial number is 15 positions and didn't match the types it listed.
Again thank you.