Hi all,
I bought a home heating oil tank in line fuel filter. Im tired of changing my nozzle once or twice a winter and cleaning my small pump filter then have to prime. Cant be good to have to keep taking it apart.
Anyway, I have my tank out back, its a trailer.the supply line is small copper line in the dirt to the house. Maybe 20 feet lin length. I'd like to install a filter right off the hardline right after the tank shutoff valve. I dont have welding skills but I've changed transmission and radiator hoses etc.
can I use flexible hoses with clamps to install the filter.
I dont see a problem with it minus insurance qualms or maybe state law or codes requiring hard line. I dont have much clearance from the supply line to the ground if any so this would also facilitate that issue rather then having to figure how to raise that line or dig a hole for a box to hold filter. I dunno. I figure if I secure everything tightly it will be fine and put it in an aerated box above ground.
So in your answer other than law or insurance issues, is there mechanical issues if I use fuel rated hoses? Short hardlines from inlet and outlet to the hoses since those are female and to make a males connector for the hose.
thank you
I'm not the boiler or oil pro but I'd rather see the filter inside close to the boiler in a heated area.
Typically the filter is installed inline using flare fittings as they are the most reliable and air tight.
Rubber line connects shown as well as compression type fittings.
Compression fittings are good when the oil tank is above the burner as they are not always
100% air tight and can cause priming issues.
ML193UH070XP36B-3, heat stays running after thermostats satisfied. Flame not just blower. Both thermostats changed. Stats running even if thermostats removed from back plate. If unit is shut down and the restarted does not ignite until thermostat calls but then stays running. Have checked wiring and everything goes where it is supposed to on thermostats and control board on furnace. Looking for troubleshooting tips. Would limit switch cause this ? hoping not control board
Thanks
Yesterday woke up to a cooler than normal house. Come downstairs and the thermostat is calling for heat (68 F), furnace is running but when I checked one of the vents it's blowing cold. Pull the combustion chamber cover, no flame. Turned down the thermostat to below room temp and the fan keeps running.
In the end I pulled the lower cover, the door switch of course kills everything. I pushed the switch in to run the control board's diagnostic, it tells me the last code was "flame rollout switch open". Interestingly the fan does not come back on when I push in the cover switch. So I decided to put everything back together while I hit the intrawebs to research the issue, cranked the thermostat back up and lo and behold the furnace starts working normally (inducer start, burner lights and I have warm air out of the vents).
Great. Except 25 minutes later I hear a click from the furnace and sure enough- flame out. Fan keeps running.
By now I had read that flame rollout switches have a reset button. So pulled the cover again, my York furnace had 3 rollout switches. Pushed each one, no clicks heard or felt, tested each one for continuity with my multimeter and then started it up again.
Well, it is now 36 hours and the furnace is running fine. I talked to an HVAC guy today, he said they get a lot of calls for the same thing when it gets windy (we had a front move in last night).
So FYI, if your furnace was working fine but suddenly is just blowing cold air continuously check your flame rollout switches.
11-07-22, 06:54 PM
