Hi all, I have a Carrier gas furnace Model# 58PAV090-14, Series 161. My draft inducer wheel (the little black one with rotation stamped on it) was making noise and every now and then it would scrape something so I looked and it was riding up and down on the motor shaft and scraping the lock washer; so I pushed the washer on tighter and oiled the shaft with 3in1 oil. Now the wheel doesn't spin at all, I can spin it with my finger easily and also spin the shaft of the motor easily, do I even need that wheel to spin if everything is working fine?
Last edited by peglegpiney; 11-20-22 at 02:53 PM.
Reason: add picture
That black wheel is the fan that keeps the inducer cool.
I've never had one loosen up.
I thought it was keyed to the shaft...... but maybe not. Hard to tell from the service pictures.
If you push the fan on the shaft hard enough it will bind on the motor.
You either need to come up with a way to stop that or replace the blower wheel.
Thanks, I ordered a new cooling fan wheel, and yes Pjmax it is keyed but it is also the only plastic part in the furnace and I think it just wore out so now instead of having one flat side the whole thing is round and doesn't grip the shaft.
I've had to replace those cooling fans a few times on the 58PAV and 58RAV's.
It's a good furnace but the early model had an edge pin connector that was prone to corrosion,
The replacement board was an expensive kit that addressed this issue.
Ok, the new cooling wheel is here, my question is how far away from the draft inducer should I place it: half an inch, one inch, 2,3 maybe 4 inches; and when I put the internal tooth lock washer onto the shaft does it go just at the tip of the shaft or how far away from the fan wheel should I push it to? Thanks
Typically the motor shaft is only flat to a certain point. Not all the way to the motor.
The blower wheel should be pushed until the flat point ends and the star washer gets pushed
all the way against the wheel.
My home had an addition back in the 90s, I dont know if the current furnace was installed before or after the addition but the heat barley reaches the addition. The duct work runs through a crawlspace thats sealed from the basement and is vented to the outside and the duct is somewhere around 30ft and branches to new bathroom and master bedroom. Its 8 inch duct. When the heat is on you can feel warm air coming out of vent but with no real force and always leaving the addition about 5 degrees colder than rest of house. I even have the vents closed in dinning room (where thermostat is) and kitchen closed to try and keep the furnace running longer without getting main house too warm (we set it to 72). So now my question is, looking at the furnace ID, is there an aftermarket blower that will fit that space and has a higher CFM? Or am I stuck with installing a duct booster? Thanks
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Hi --
Our 15 year old Goodman furnace went out a couple of days ago. The igniter would light but then cycle off quickly with no gas being fired. There was also a small bit of water at the base of the furnace. When I took off the top panel, I saw a little bit of water having pooled on the shelf where the electrodes/wires plug in ... and a bit more water at the bottom of the top panel/compartment. A bead of water was present on the fan motor assembly. There is no water source nearby that would explain the presence of water. HVAC technician came today and identified the gas valve as not working. He examined the chimney and said the cap and liner are in great shape. A bit stumped as to where the water came from ... curious if others have thoughts. Condensation in the flue pipe would be the best guess but there was no obvious signs of it (admittedly, it's cold and dry and the water that had been present had already dried up by the time he came). Might the faulty gas valve contribute to/cause condensation?
TIA for your helpful comments/advice/suggestions,
T
11-20-22, 02:19 PM
