My home had an addition back in the 90s, I dont know if the current furnace was installed before or after the addition but the heat barley reaches the addition. The duct work runs through a crawlspace thats sealed from the basement and is vented to the outside and the duct is somewhere around 30ft and branches to new bathroom and master bedroom. Its 8 inch duct. When the heat is on you can feel warm air coming out of vent but with no real force and always leaving the addition about 5 degrees colder than rest of house. I even have the vents closed in dinning room (where thermostat is) and kitchen closed to try and keep the furnace running longer without getting main house too warm (we set it to 72). So now my question is, looking at the furnace ID, is there an aftermarket blower that will fit that space and has a higher CFM? Or am I stuck with installing a duct booster? Thanks
You should first verify the furnace size is adequate for the space in your house. If small, consider a new furnace or supplemental heat source in the addition. Second you should check the heat rise listed on the furnace nameplate. The furnace blower speed must be changed to get the stated heat rise. If the addition is still not getting enough heat, try lowering the blower speed to increase heat rise by 5 degrees. If this is not acceptable in the addition but acceptable in the rest of the house, look into a duct blower for the addition duct.
No it is not insulated yet. I plan to insulate the entire addition including the duct work when I have the time. I guess I could ask, is wrapping solid duct easy enough or is it okay to remove and install flexible that comes insulated?
its 110k btu and my home is 2200 sqft.
If I am reading it correctly then the heat rise is "low 55-85"
Depending on where you live, 110k btu ought to be plenty...my 75kbtu heats my 2200 square feet in NE ohio easily. Of course a lot depends on insulation levels, etc, but it doesn't seem way undersized.
Insulate the solid duct. Replacing with flex will just further reduce the airflow (a lot). Insulating it is easy if you have reasonable access. That alone may be enough to solve your problem. If the existing duct seams aren't sealed with foil tape or mastic now, do that before insulating. Don't use duct tape to seal the duct.
I don't know how to tell what speed it is on or how to change it. I am assuming it would be swapping a hot wire but which one. I am going to try and insulate the duct this coming weekend. Do you have a preferred wrap suggestion?
Try and find a bargain. Duct wrap is fairly expensive.
Link to manual below. Good to have.
In the diagram.... four speed motor is shown. Yours may be three.
Black motor wire is on cool for high speed blower on cooling.
Blue motor wire is on heat for medium/low blower on heating.
The red and yellow wires are parked and can be used.
Let me know what colors you have and what's on cool and heat.
A picture is good too........ How to insert pictures.
I swapped the wires but I can't feel a difference. I am wondering if the whole house humidifier is effecting the volume of air. I might just have to install a duct booster after all . thanks for all the help.
Hi all, I have a Carrier gas furnace Model# 58PAV090-14, Series 161. My draft inducer wheel (the little black one with rotation stamped on it) was making noise and every now and then it would scrape something so I looked and it was riding up and down on the motor shaft and scraping the lock washer; so I pushed the washer on tighter and oiled the shaft with 3in1 oil. Now the wheel doesn't spin at all, I can spin it with my finger easily and also spin the shaft of the motor easily, do I even need that wheel to spin if everything is working fine?
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