Greetings! First post here, looking for some help.
I've got a Trane XV80 that is not producing any burner flames. I've read a number of posts and watched a bunch of videos and this is where I've got to:
Sequence
1) Thermostat calls for heat.
2) Draft inducer starts running.
3) Pressure switch proves vacuum from draft inducer.
4) Igniter starts heating as long as pressure switch has proven.
And here things hang. I do not think the gas valve is opening.
Furnace makes three attempts to ignite, then goes into "2 flashes" EXTERNAL LOCKOUT (RETRIES OR RECYCLES EXCEEDED)
That seemed to indicate the gas valve or the control board. I checked voltages at several places on the control board and find 26-28 VAC. I checked voltage between C and Hi on the gas valve and get only a few mV. Same between C and M, with a brief flash to about 16 VAC. Seems like the control board.
By lucky circumstance I had another control board. I put that in and turned the furnace on. Start-up went smoothly, igniter came on, gas valve opened, and the burners lit!
The burners stayed on for about 30 seconds, then went out, and we are back to where I started. The start-up sequence proceeds through the igniter glowing, no burners ignite, the system resets, and the cycle repeats.
Now what? What else could be preventing the control board from opening the gas control valve? Is the gas control valve coil bad? Could it be damaging the control board? How can I test that?
It sounds to me like you have already proven your theory.
You need a gas valve and a board.
I would still isolate the wiring to the control valve (unplug it) , shut off the gas service valve, ( not at the control valve) and measure the resistance between Hi and Com and then Low to Com on the gas valve. I would then measure High to ground and Low to ground.
After the igniter glows there may be a quick voltage rise measured between Hi and C at the gas control valve input connector, with the connector disconnected from the valve. I can't get a good reading with a multimeter and don't have an oscilloscope.
If you can't get the momentary 24v on the gas valve then you need to check at the multiwire connector on the board. You shouldn't need a scope. You need hard 24vac. Some typical problems are those connectors get corroded. I spray a little contact cleaner into the plug only and then reinsert it several times. If you had voltage at the valve then I'd recommend operating the power switch a few times. You could also clean the plug there too.
My 3 wire pilot burner went out for my Carrier furnace, and I can't find the model number in any on-line database. The model # is 396JAW048065. I have found 396GAW048065, but I don't think that is the same thing.
I ordered the 3 wire pilot burner part number LH680005. It looks exactly like the original, but it won't light.
I hear the gas come on and I see the ignitor spark, but the gas seems to be coming out at a slower rate. When I look in the inside tube where the gas flows, the new part is about 1/4 inch wide where the original is a very small pin sized hole.
The original sparks and lights just fine, but the flame goes out soon after lighting the furnace, so the sensor must be bad.
How can I find the correct part number for my furnace?
(in the preview mode of this post the picture of my furnace label is pixelated so I don't know if it will show properly when I post this)
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/846x426/furnace_264_7541bf0d89bf6b82d756541514fbce650bf7d5df.jpg[/img]
I have two same furnaces...one ignitor won't lit up. i have replaced it with a brand new one (didn't lit) and used the one from the other furnace...and it doesn't lit up. i have power to the furnace...i can hear ignitor click...but won't light up. please help.
model: RCBA-3765GG17XI