Removing Radiators


  #1  
Old 02-25-02, 02:11 PM
JozefS
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Removing Radiators

I need to remove a radiator (black pipe closed system). I spoke with my local plumbing heating guys, and they quoted $500 to drain the system, remove the radiator, cap the pipes, and to refill the system. I was wondering if this task is something that a eager do-it-yourself could handle or am I best leaving it to the pros?
 
  #2  
Old 02-25-02, 05:59 PM
TheZman
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Five hundred dollars seems a bit excessive to me.
I have a relative who paid a plumber $400 to remove and cap seven radiators and it took him 1 day to do them all.

For a professional, this is a 2 hour job maximium.
This is a do-it-yourself project, if you have some experience and confidence with plumbing work.

1) Firstly, you do not need to drain the system completely. You need to close off the auto-fill valve to the boiler, open the drain valve on the boiler and open the bleeder valve on the radiator you wish to remove. When the water from the drain valve reduces to a trickle you can start.

2) In theory you would remove the radiator by unscrewing the two unions joints. Most professionals will NOT do this because it takes too much time and it is much easier for them to saw through the old pipes.

3) The difficult part is removing the remaining pipe stubs. This will involving heating with a propane torch, alot of WD40 and unscrewing them. You also need a big pipe wrench (at least 24" inches) to give you enough torque.

4) Finally, another tricky part (unless you have access to the bottom pipes), is to carefully insert two pipe caps through the old holes and screw them in place. This is tricky because you might have to drop the plugs 6" to 12" below the floor. Plumbers have a special tool for this.

5) Lastly, you refill the system.

I hope this gives you an idea of the diffculty (or ease) of the project.

TheZman
 
  #3  
Old 02-26-02, 07:53 AM
JozefS
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Cool

Thanks. I feel much better about trying to handle this project myself...and much better about saving the couple hundred dollars.

I guess one final question would be, if I don't have a problem with leaving pipe stubs above the floor level (a grand piano is going over the spot....and the radiator was rather excessive to begin with....there were 3 other radiators within a 10 foot radius in a rather open floor plan), is it easier to just disconnect the radiator at the union joints and cap them there (rather than heating the pipes, and unscrewing them), or remove the valve, and cap there...or do all these connections require the same heating, DW40 work? Getting to the pipes isn't the problem, since the radiator is on the first floor and I have access below the floor to everything. I just don't see the point of doing too much work when the options are leaving two small pipe stubs that show beneath a piano, or leaving two small holes beneath a piano.

Thanks again.
 
  #4  
Old 02-26-02, 10:52 AM
TheZman
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Hello Josef,

If you are willing to live with stubs above the floor, this is a very easy job.

Here is how I would determine where to cap the pipes.

1) If you have brass parts (unions or valves) on iron pipes, you do not need to use heat or use WD40. There will be no rust gluing the pipes and parts together. Brass unscrews very easily even after 50 yrs.

2) If you have iron parts (unions or valves) on iron pipes, you soak the threads with WD40 a few minutes and then unscrew the parts with a big pipe wrench. If this doesn't work, try heating the junction for a few minutes and try unscrewing it. Be careful WD40 is flammable.

Be careful large radiators can weigh a couple hundred pounds.
Make sure you have a helper and dolly when moving out the radiator.

DO NOT throw out your old radiator. Old fashioned cast iron radiators are in high demand. You should be able to get $50-$100 for a regular pre-WW2 one and several hundred dollars for a large Victorian style radiator from the 1880-1920's. Check antique stores that deal in old architectural stuff.

Good Luck

TheZman
 
 

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