New shed foundation?

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  #1  
Old 06-18-04, 08:10 AM
SoloTSi97
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Question New shed foundation?

I bought a shed kit at the local home store, a 10x10 Handy Homes Princeton kit. It includes a floor frame of treated 2x4's.

I will not be putting the shed on a concrete slab, as that would require a building permit and more hassle than I'm willing to deal with. We'll be moving in 5 years or less ... so longevity past 10 years or so is not important to me.

That said, I've read several books on sheds. Most recommend setting the floor frame on 4x4 skids spaced around 24" O.C., on a level area with 4" of compacted gravel. But, these books also assume 2x6 joists. The instructions for the kit imply building it directly on level ground, is this the best way to go? I'd imagine filling 2-4" deep with compacted gravel would aid drainage ... but I'd also think that building it a bit off of the ground to allow air flow beneath would be a good thing. How about those ~2" thick concrete blocks that the home store sells for like $.75 each? If I used these, how far apart would they have to be spaced for 2x4 joists 24" O.C.? I've also seen Dek Block blocks that the floor joists sit into that would work, but they're pricey at $5 each, and again, I'm not sure how far they would need to be spaced for 2x4 joists.

Thanks in advance for your advice ... oh, and what's a good rule of thumb for how much compactible gravel one needs per cu. ft. for this type of application?
 
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  #2  
Old 08-18-04, 09:07 AM
rdutcher
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Re: New Shed Foundation

Was there any reply to this? I have the exact same questions and I also have purchased the same Princeton shed. Additionally, I don't know what you plan to store in the shed but if it's anything heavy I would revise the 24" stud spacing to 16", I plan to do that as I'll be putting a rider mower in it. Thanks for any tips.
 
  #3  
Old 08-23-04, 09:32 PM
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Location: Knotts Island, NC
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Consider the moisture

Go ahead and spend a little money on treated lumber. If you use 16" centers, you should be able to use 2x4's from the sound of it. Throw some 1/2 inch ply on it and it should support a mower.

If you put the shed on bare ground, moisture will collect under the roof as the ground under the shed heats up. Rusty tools, mowers, etc.

You're probably finished this project by now.
 
  #4  
Old 08-25-04, 04:49 PM
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Location: Arlington, WA
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SoloTSi97,

Different jurisdictions have different bldg. codes, and enforce them differently. Where I live, a 10' X 10' shed COULD be set on a concrete slab, and no permit would be required. (I'm assuming that you checked with your bldg. dept. and found what you are saying to be true, rather than just taking the advise from a neighbor.)

Rather than DekBlocks, use regular pier blocks -- they are about 1/3 the price and will work just as well. 9 of them -- 3 rows of 3. 4X4 girders, and 2X4 or 2X6 joists. Rather than 1/2" plywood, use 3/4" T&G plywood for the floor. You are building a 10' shed, and plywood comes in 8' panels -- you are going to have unsupported joints, or you are going to waste a lot of plywood.
 
  #5  
Old 09-02-04, 09:12 PM
rward
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I have a follow-up question to Lefty's response - I'm building a 10' wide x 12' deep shed on 4x4 girders and pier blocks with 2x4 floor joists (16" spacing). Should the outside girders/pier blocks be directly under the outside walls? The reason I ask is that the shed plans I have call for putting the outside girders in about 16" from the outside walls (cantilever design is what they call it), but that doesn't jive with anything else I've seen. Also, can the girders be nailed directly to pier blocks or do I need to get the pier blocks with the metal brackets? Thanks much.

Rick
 
  #6  
Old 09-02-04, 10:43 PM
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Location: Arlington, WA
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Don't cantilever the floor joists -- your floor will sag from the weight of the walls and roof!! Place the outside pier blocks DIRECTLY under the walls.
 
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