Framing for roof of backyard shed

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  #1  
Old 08-13-04, 06:52 AM
mad1985
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Framing for roof of backyard shed

I am building a backyard shed(12X16) on a slab. How do I calculate the angle to cut for the top pitch of a gable roof? What is the best pitch to use for this, I want to make it similar to the pitch on my house? I am not sure what the current pitch is on my ranch house. The slope is very gradual and I am able to walk on the roof without much leaning towards the center of the roof.
 
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Old 08-16-04, 03:30 PM
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Matching your shed roof pitch to your house roof pitch is good practice. You calculate the pitch by measuring rise to run. If it increases 4 feet in height for every 12 feet of run, it is 4:12. Duplicating this on a 16' gable (8' from ridge to eave) would make your gable height 4/12 times 8 or 32" (relative to base of the truss).
 
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Old 08-19-04, 10:12 AM
mad1
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Is there a online calculator that I can input the variables for my shed and get the angle cuts needed to build a 4/12 pitch?
 
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Old 09-07-04, 09:52 AM
mad1985
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Any suggestions on building trusses for the shed? The pitch to be 6/12. I have been looking into truss mounts instead of making the "birds mouth" cutout to mount the truss to the wall, is this a good idea?I will be making a 1' overhang for the roof on the sides, will the overhang be the same on front(roll up door for entry) and rear walls?
 
  #5  
Old 09-10-04, 02:38 AM
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Join Date: May 2004
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6 in 12 is pretty steep and you would definately be leaning toward the ridge walking it. Are your trusses spaning the 16' or the 12'. To get code have them made by a truss maker. I make my own with 2by4 for rafters and cords up to 20'+ spans. No snow load here though. Use a W pattern where the center (ridge) joins and goes to the bottom cord at equidistant points ( 1/3 the way to the first joint on bottom cord) and the top (W) is divided equally from ridge tip to bottom cord joint. I use plywood for the gussets (both sides) that I glue and nail. Use full length 2by4 for all pieces. I lay the bottom cord out so that it sits on the top sill plate. No cut outs. I would consider more overhang. Doing the end walls you cantilever 2by4's (2'o.c.)and nail them perpendicular to the inside truss and it lays on the outside wall and sticks out past where you nail the overhang rafter. The outside walls are verticle studs up to a 2 by 4 layed flat and lower by 3&1/2" than the trusses.
 
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