I have a job coming up where the client wants to use part of their covered carport (20'x20'x8'H) for a shed, using the back 1/4 for the shed.(10'x10').
The carport is supported at the back and left side by walls supporting 2x10's joists with 4x4 posts at 10' and 20' carrying the joists to the opened right side and front.
I was going to frame the wall on the ground and raise it under the joists, using 2x4 frame, then covered in 5/8" ply (good 1side), insolated insided, with VB, covered in 3/8" ply and fit/make a door.
The walls wont be load carrying walls but will be attached to one of the existing 4x4posts supporting the carport for the corner.
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Should I double the sole plate and top plate..or would singles be suffient?
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When I butt up under the joist, should I double the joist (add a 2x4) to better carry/support the wall when nailed up into the joist as 1 wall is running parallel with the joist..?? (Me thinks so!) - The front wall will be perpendicular to the joists.
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Best way to anchor sole plate to cement carport floor?!? - If you think it should be anchored. (Probably a good idea!!)
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What do you think?.
TIA

 

A single top and sole plate are sufficient for a partition wall.

I would not want the joist to carry the wall load, and in fact it won't. The wall should be supporting the joist. I don't think doubling up the joist will make much difference.

For anchoring the wall to the concrete slab I am considering doing something similar for a new shed I am going to build on an existing concrete slab. I am considering anchoring the walls to the concrete using concrete wedge anchors. These should be available at any home improvement store. You will have to drill holes into the slab and then insert the anchors through the sole plate into the concrete. The top is threaded for a nut and when you tighten the nut the base of the anchor wedges against the concrete (hence the term wedge anchor). You'll have to be careful with your edge distances and make sure you have adequate cover to the edge of the slab. The other thing to verify would be the thickness of the slab as the wedge anchors come in different required embedment depths.

Good luck!!

FYI - there is a difference between cement and concrete. Remember cement is to concrete as flour is to cake.

 

Thanks for the feedback, Kitbadger...
I got the 1st wall in yesterday..a bit tricky to get the top plate of the new wall up and in between the 2 parallel beams...then I toe-nailed the studs to the soleplate, squared everything up and used the concrete wedge anchors you mentioned to secure the soleplate/wall to the concrete pad. The anchors are centered in the soleplate. Ive used them before to attach our railing to concrete steps. Worked out fine then, and again for this wall and will do the same on the other wall.
-The other wall will be running parallel to and aligned with the joist..so this wall will be tucked under the joist and centered and actually supporting the joist. The typical installation that Ive seen.
A nail gun wouldve made things a bit easier, but didnt have one available..and didnt want to rent one.. So, so far so good.
"Remember cement is to concrete as flour is to cake." - So true... I did mean concrete......!
Thanx again

 

It sounds like things are going well which is good to hear. I was wondering about weather proofing this new enclosure since the construction (wood frame wall on existing slab) is similar to my new shed. Normally if you were building these type of structures from scratch and placing the structure on a concrete slab the dimensions of the slab would match the outer dimensions of the structure. Then you would place your soleplate flush with the outside of the concrete slab and bring your siding down to 1" below the top of concrete so water would not reach the sole plate. In my situation the slab is bigger than the structure so I am concerned about water pooling at the soleplate. I am considering using galvanized steel 2x4, but then I think I would have to build a plywood subfloor. Ideally I would use the concrete slab as the floor to save money but I am concerned about the soleplate rotting. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

What you say is correct...if your shed is exposed to the elements. In my case they are not, as the 'shed' is in the top left quadrant (if you like) of a 4 quadrant carport...if you get my drift. In my case the carport is 20'x20' and covered and Im using the 10'x10' area at the left rear..so it is not exposed to the elements...nor concerned about water pooling at the soleplate. Just for xtra measure..I've run a bead of caulking at the soleplate and concrete..more to keep out crawly bugs and sh**..and maybe some water if the clients should hose down the area..which is unlikely.
You could add some styrofoam insulater under your soleplate so any water wouldnt hit your wood soleplate!!! - OR use presure treated wood for the soleplate..and reg fir/spruce 2x4's for the studs and up....!!('Tho presure treated 2x4 may be a tad off the same specs at regular fir/spruce 2x4's..(not by much tho').
Is there any pitch on the outer perimeter of your slab...where water may run off?? - of is it 'flat'?
I guess you could go with the galvanized steel 2x4 for soleplate and attach them to the concrete slab with the 'wedge anchors'..you wouldnt need that long of a wedge anchor in this case...then use wood 2x4 studds and up!- I dont see why that couldnt work.
Just some ideas...