I got my neighbors old shed (10wX8D with gable roof), fixed it up and spent the weekend (pretty much by myself) laying the pressure treated foundation, deck, etc. I am ready to put on the roof and have decided to add a ridge vent.

Having never done that before, I have a couple of questions.

Should I rund the shingles all the way up?

Should I lay a fine wire screen down before it goes on?

I assume some type of silicon or tar around the nails would be correct?

Do I need to go the entire length?

Should I put shingles over it?

What caps the end?

I won't have any soffits for cross ventilation but we open the doors quite a bit and this vent should help get the fumes (gas for the mowers) out.

Any other suggestons.

Thanks,
Pete

 

The less expensive type of ridge vent is the flexible type. I won't mention brand names, but most home improvement centers that carry roofing will have it. The packaging contains full installation instructions for both new roof applications and retro-fits, so the question regarding how far up to lay a course of roofing will be addressed. The instructions will also address sealing issues.

To answer some of your questions:

Wire screen? - not necessary; flexible ridge vent is designed so that no screening is necessary.

Size of ridge vent cut? - The ridge vent installation instructions will tell you how wide the ridge vent slot will need to be. The slot width can vary depending on the manufacturer and width of the ridge vent material. As for length: from the edge of each end of the ridge, measure a six inch set-back. You will cut the length of the ridge vent slot from set-back to set-back, leaving six inches uncut at each end of the ridge.

Length? Shingles over it? Ends? - the ridge vent material will be layed the entire length of the roof ridge, including over the set-back areas. The ridge vent material requires special sized nails to anchor to the roof, so again, check the instructions for the correct type of nails. The ridge vent material comes with special end caps that essentially plug the ends. You will likely need to buy a package of ridge cap shingles. These are designed especially to be placed over roof ridges, including ridge vents. The package will have instructions on how to cut and install them - including which direction to run the course to accommodate the effects of prevailing wind direction. Also, the instructions will provide direction on proper sealing of nails.

One special caution: if you lay the roofing all the way to the ridge before cutting the ridge vent slot, watch out for roofing nails in the cut path. I also recommend using a less expensive blade so you can toss it when you are done since it will be very dull and coated with tar.

FYI: many roofers either lay the roof decking short of the ridge to form the vent slot without the need to cut, or they cut the slot before laying the roofing. They then lay the underlayment and roofing a bit past the slot and then trim it off before installing the ridge vent material.

Best wishes.

 

one follow-on comment about the set-back. Six inches is typical on many gabled sheds because the overhang eave is only three to four inches. However, I don't know how the eave is designed on your shed. If the eave is enclosed in a soffit, then the six inch set back is OK.

However, if you have an open eave, make sure the set back is sufficient to clear the open overhang area, otherwise it may look strange with slot cut under the open eave. Measure the distance from the facia to the barge board and then add this amount to the set-back measurement.

Best wishes.