I'm getting a 10x12 shed that is built on 4x6 skids. This will sit on a gravel base, but I need to build up the base a few inches from the ground level to avoid drainage problems. So, I need some sort of perimeter to contain the gravel. I've seen some pictures of this done with a perimeter of treated 4x4s, but I don't like the idea of wood set partially in the ground. I'd rather use some sort of concrete blocks or garden wall blocks. I think a single row of the regular solid-top 16x8 grey concrete blocks would work, but don't look too attractive, so I'm looking for other ideas. The blocks would only need to be about 8 inches high, and would be partially buried (maybe 4 inches of it) so I'm sure they would stay in place.

Has anyone done one like this, or does anyone have any suggestions of what kind of perimeter material/blocks to use?

 

I used 6x6x12 treated lumber.

My shed 12X16

Filled with 4" gravel base.

Bolted the wood together, and good thing I did. The weight of the rocks and the shed tend to push the gravel outwards.


I think you should do the wood. Its pretty attractive IMO. I also used the same to make my ground level deck.

Here is a pic to help you decide. Best pic I have of the shed.

[IMG][/IMG]



Mike NJ

 

Looks nice!

Isn't treated lumber just for insects, and not moisture?

 

I was going to suggest treated sleepers but you said no wood.

Treated wood is treated for insects, decay (rot), and fungus. Get treated lumber that is rated for ground contact and it will last 20 years plus.

 

Ok thanks, I'll take another look at using treated lumber.

 

OK, I've just about decided to go with a timber crib using treated lumber.

So, I was wondering about using rebar to "pin" the lumber to the ground. There isn't much slope, maybe 4 inches in 12 feet, so that's not a factor. It might even stay in place without any rebar pins. If I use 1/2" x 4' rebar, how many should I use? On the corners or sides?

 

I may still consider using a layer of 2x12x12 pavers with a layer of 6x8x16 blocks (lalaid on the 8" side), with Loctite PL Landscape Adhesive to stick them all together.

 

Because my yard pitches I did rest the front 6x6's ties on old 4"x6"x2ft concrete edgers that were in my yard when I bought the house.

I would say they are from the 1970's or something.

When I buried the back the front was 4" lower or so. So these blocks lifted the front the difference.

What I ended up with was a level square 12x18ft filled with 4" of 3/4" gravel.

Shed is 12x16

Mike NJ

 

Well, I searched the internet extensively and by far the most common way to do this is with some sort of pressure treated lumber - 4x4, 4x6, 6x6 or bigger. You know, when you see just about everyone doing things the same way, that must be the way to do it, for what ever reason. I couldn't find a single pic of anyone doing it with concrete blocks, unless it was built like a retaining wall which I don't intend to do.

My elevation is maybe 4", so I don't think the stacked 4x4 frame would shift much. I might put in a couple of rebar pins on each side for good measure. I don't really think any "dead men" are needed, since the frame is only about 12'x16'.

 

Yeah I did not want waste and it gave them more room to slide it off.

I uses 2- 6x6x12ft for the sides.

Then the front and back I put on the outside of the 12ft pieces.

I used one 12 ft and 1/2 of another for 18 ft. Less 1 ft because I put them on the outsides of the 12ft end pieces.

So 5 lengths. 1 length cut in half.About $200 bucks at the home store. ( My S10 maxed on the weight)

The gravel was two s10 truck loads. Less then $100 from the quarry.

Hope this makes sense.

Mike NJ

 

Here are more pics of my boxed shed.

Also next to the shed I had a deck but I took it apart today. I am making room for a chicken coop.

But you can see how its boxed is the same with the shed but filled with gravel. And of course less the 3 ties in the middle.

Hope this helps.









Mike NJ

 

Thanks for the pics Mike.

 

Now I'm wondering what kind of gravel to use. The two options I seee most are #57 or Crusher Runs (a.k.a. Road Base).

Opinions?

 

I used 3/4 crushed stone. Cheapest stuff they had at the quarry. Not washed or anything.



Mike NJ

 

Yes, what they call "3/4 crush" around here, $25 to $30/yd, plus delivery.

 

I used my pickup truck. I think it was two bed fulls. Small 4x6 bed. S10 pick up.

Mike NJ

 

How many tons (or yards) can you get in a pickup truck?

 

Depends on the truck. My payload capacity is 765 pounds. ( Not sure what I had. I would say 500 lbs)

They loaded me and my leaf springs were flat and just hitting the stops. I did not have far to drive. 5 miles the most.

I really have only a 1/4 ton pickup I would say. Two 500 lbs loads would be less then 1/2 ton that I filled it with.

Does this help you?

Mike NJ

 

Yes, that helps. I need 2+ yards so I decided to get 3 yards delivered Saturday.

 

Well if you want to do the math.

A cubic yard is 27 cubic ft.

You need to figure your area sq ft and the height in inches.

Use mine as an example.

12'x18' = 216 sq ft. Times the height in inches. My code said 4" gravel base.

216 x 4 = 864 sqaure inches. Divide that by 324 which is the square inched in a cubic yard.

864/324 = 2.66 cubic yards of stone.

My truck bed is 5'x6'x12" = 360

360/324= 1.1 cubic yards. I made two trips so I got 2.2 cubic yards.

( Actually the bed depth is probably a few inches deeper, like14")

Mike NJ

 

Well, here it is! 13 ft x 16 ft, with 5 inches of crushed stone.

 

Looks great!!!! Good job.

Looks close to the property line if thats what the walls are.

My shed needed to be 5 ft off all property lines if under 10 ft in height. If over 10 ft it was more. I think 10-15ft.

Did you check on that with your town code?

Since the shed is not there yet if you made a bo-bo now is the time to fix it.

It only takes one neighbor to complain.

( I think I mentioned this is one of my posts)

Mike NJ

 

Oh one more thing.

I advise you to make a nice well made ramp to get in and out. I procrasinated on that and never put one in.I chewed up the edge getting lawnmowers and such in and out. The Harley I use a aluminum scafold, but you need to ride it in fast...LOL ( Or tippy toe it in and out.)

Mike NJ

 

Yes I checked required clearances before I started. Here, any structure needs to be 10 ft from a house and 5 ft from any other structure. However, a shed of 120 s.f. or less does not require a permit, and can go right up to the property line, as long as you maintain the required 5 ft clearance from any structure (including those on your neighbor's property). A shed of your size (more than 120 s.f.) would need a permit here, and, if it's on a permanent foundation would be subject to our 5 ft property-line setback as well.

In any case, my shed will be 2 to 3 ft from the back and side walls, and the nearest thing on either of my neighbor's lots will be about 7 to 8 ft. I just looked at two of my neighbors sheds, one about 2 feet from their back wall, and the other about 6 inches from a side wall!

The weird thing is, here there is no minimum distance for a 120 s.f. or smaller shed on the side and back of a lot, just 10 feet in front. This means you could literally put the thing right on the lot line, or up against a wall or fence (though I don't know why anyone would do such a thing)!

Thanks for the suggestion on the ramp.