Hello, I purchased a set of plans for a new shed. As I was reading through it, the author recommends not to stack more than three 4 inch concrete pavers for stability.

I took a string level and at grade at the highest point, to grade at the lowest point (measured diagnal, shed is 10 X 12) and came up with about 22inches.

Now, I am trying to figure out the best approach for creating the foundation of this shed. There was examples of deck peirs but nothing on the max height recommendation when using them.

The author does suggest for anything more than a moderate slope, to use concrete footings. I am thinking my slope is more than moderate on its lowest point. With this slope, would I be best using a concrete (frost proof) footing? If so, should I use a sonotube? Or is it better to not use them? I figure I would not burry the post and use a bracket at the top of the foot for a 4x4 post to not have to worry about wood rot or anything later on.



Secondly, this is a little side step from the thread question, but since we are talking about the footings, the author lists only putting support at each corner. So four in total. This is a 10X12 shed, and this person suggests using 2x8 floor joists 16" O.C, end nailed and joist hangers. Should there be more support? I see all these shed building examples with concrete pavers all over the place on basic shed, and this author is only suggesting one at each corner. Should there be at least one in the middle of the shed? I have never built a shed before so maybe I am over thinking it. I plan on storing my john deere riding lawn mower, a snow blower, a push mower.. and whatever else I can fit in the thing.. So there isn't a 1 ton car sitting in there, but I still feel like it's a little light on the floor support.

This is in the Midwest. I am about an hour south of Chicago. I have clay soil with about 7-8 inches of black dirt on top of it.


Picture of site to give idea. Shed will be 5ft off fence, middle rear of yard:

https://imageshack.com/i/pn7ZjobNj

 

Have you checked your local zoning and building codes? In most areas pouring concrete for a footer makes it a permanent structure and requires zoning and building permits. I would use dry stacked solid block. To make things easier you can use 4" thick instead of 2". If you are concerned about only supporting on the four corners it would be relatively easy to add a middle pier in the center of the end beams (not joists) giving you six support piers.

I would make some provision to anchor the shed down. You don't want it blowing away or getting blown off it's piers in a strong midwestern thunderstorm microburst.

 

Do check with zoning. 5' is probably the required set back but you sure don't want to find out after the fact that it's too close to the property line. Locally we have to have a permit for any building larger than 100 square feet.

 

Hi, thanks for the response. I had pulled a permit as it was required for anything over 100sqft as well. 5ft is the minimum setback, but the fence is back a few inches. I will give a few more inches just to be safe.

 

Pilot Dane, I am concerned though as the lowest corner is about 21-22 inches lower from the highest. So, that would probably be too many stacked bricks.

 

Best location of the shed is with floor parallel to grade at door opening which would be with door opening facing the fence or on the side opposite to fence. Door opening facing the fence may require a step. Door opening opposite the fence will require 3 steps due to grade slope. If things like a riding mower are to be stored in the shed, a ramp (replacing the steps) will be necessary which I assume would eliminate the door opening facing the fence. Hope this helps.