Shed floor suggestions
#1
05-29-19, 10:24 AM
Shed floor suggestions
Hello, I have been wanting to build a new shed for a while now but the only thing stopping me is not knowing what to do with the floor. So i have an old metal shed 8x8 or so sitting on a concrete slab but the previous owner filled the inside of the shed floor unevenly with concrete. My plan is to tear the shed down and leave concrete floor the way it is and build a new raised floor just above uneven concrete.
I am planning to use 2x6 for the floor joist but don't know the proper way to secure it level to the existing concrete. Any ideas? Thanks
I am planning to use 2x6 for the floor joist but don't know the proper way to secure it level to the existing concrete. Any ideas? Thanks
#2
05-29-19, 10:58 AM
Group Moderator
I would probably use a treated 2x8 2x10 rim joist so that your 2x6's would be able to float over any irregular concrete. Scribe the bottom of the rim as needed so it all sits level.
Then you could use Simpson anchors to bolt it down to the concrete on the inside perimeter of the rim. Add a treated 3/4" t&g plywood subfloor on top once its anchored.
Then you could use Simpson anchors to bolt it down to the concrete on the inside perimeter of the rim. Add a treated 3/4" t&g plywood subfloor on top once its anchored.
#3
05-29-19, 12:33 PM
IMO a concrete floor is preferable over a wood floor. Since it's just an 8x8 it shouldn't be a big deal to mix and pour 2"-3" over what you have.
Dixie2012
voted this post useful.
#4
05-29-19, 06:29 PM
So i am trying to picture the rim joist idea... would this basically be a box/rim joist out of 2x8 or 2x10 sitting on the ground where i would then build another rim joists on the inside for my floor ? So i would have two rim joist, One on the outside sitting on the ground and another floating on the inside for the actual floor?
Pouring concrete over the existing area is not out of the question yet i will need to tear down the shed and see how bad it looks. I may go slightly bigger with the shed.
Pouring concrete over the existing area is not out of the question yet i will need to tear down the shed and see how bad it looks. I may go slightly bigger with the shed.
#5
05-29-19, 06:43 PM
Group Moderator
The rim joists are a single layer box. You don't need a 2nd inside layer. Dont know where that came from. The smaller floor joists would fit between the rims, flush with the top of the rim joists. The only thing that would contact the pad is the entire perimeter of the rim.
that makes sense now.
#7
05-29-19, 09:52 PM
If i go this route with treated rim joist, i am assuming i should also use treated floor joist correct. Can i nail these from the outside or should hangars be used? Also, i am not sure i have seen treated t&g plywood subfloor at homedepot, sorry but homedepot is my hardware store where all my material will come from. Should I be worried about water damaging the treated wood if it rains enough to cause standing water near the rim joist?
Thanks again
Thanks again
#8
05-30-19, 03:01 AM
While T&G would be nice it's not a deal breaker - it is just a shed.
You want the shed walls built in a manner that would keep the joist and floor dry. If standing water will be that high either the shed floor needs to higher or a ditch/swale needs to be cut to channel the rain water away from the shed.
You want the shed walls built in a manner that would keep the joist and floor dry. If standing water will be that high either the shed floor needs to higher or a ditch/swale needs to be cut to channel the rain water away from the shed.
#9
05-30-19, 08:35 AM
Oh no water will definitely not be that high, it would be more of a small puddle if it rains a lot. I think it's time i start tearing down my old rusted shed.
#10
05-30-19, 03:01 PM
Group Moderator
I would use treated joists and treated plywood just so it doesn't rot. With no ventilation or crawlspace underneath, you will likely want that. I have seen lots of sheds and pool houses rot when built with standard spf when hot humid air in the summer hits the cooler air underneath.
Your HD may not have t&g treated but they most certainly should have treated 3/4 ply with plain square edges. Just use ACQ rated fasteners.
Your HD may not have t&g treated but they most certainly should have treated 3/4 ply with plain square edges. Just use ACQ rated fasteners.
#11
05-31-19, 12:18 PM
Will do thanks for ther advice i will be using all treated wood for ther floor. Also, should i just nail the floor joist from the outside of the rim joist or use hangers on the inside? I have seem them build both ways and just wondering what is the recommended way or why is one way used over the other.
#12
05-31-19, 05:57 PM
Group Moderator
Well, usually your joists are able to rest on a bottom plate, and in that case it's OK to end nail. Or if the span is short (less than 4 ft) it's often okay to end nail.
However this is a bit unconventional and since it's a 8ft span with no plate for the joists to rest on, I would recommend you use joist hangers and the recommended joist hanger nails or comparable Simpson screws.
However this is a bit unconventional and since it's a 8ft span with no plate for the joists to rest on, I would recommend you use joist hangers and the recommended joist hanger nails or comparable Simpson screws.
