Hello,
In order to get a permit to build a 12/24 shed on a concrete slab, I need to provide to the inspector a design for the concrete slab with 24 inch deep foundation, all around. I have never designed one, and I wonder if anyone can share a sample I can use as guidance when I design mine. Also, if anyone has plans for a shed that can share so I can teach myself how to design mine, I would greatly appreciate.
What is required can depend on your country and location. Many jurisdictions specify a minimum allowable footing size, depth and whether or not rebar is required. A quick search online will show you what a monolithic footer looks like. You will need to fill in the dimensions based on your local requirements. Below is one image I found showing the basics though you will have to confirm the details. For example, in my area I was required to make my footers 24" wide and include two strands of rebar along the length of the footer due to the soil conditions.
Here is my plan for the building that we poured last fall and will be building next summer. Only change, the footings and slab were poured mono and we typ use Red Heads vs the threaded "J' bars.
Hey all!
We recently bought a house that has a screened 3 season room. The screens also have add on plexiglass windows that the previous owner apparently removed in the summer and replaced in the winter. These panels are held in place by thin maybe 1x1 pieces of wood.
Basically the setup is - frame...screen...1x1 wood trim to hold it in place... Plexiglass window...1x1 to hold that in place.
ITs all pretty straightforward but I don't want to have to keep "unscrewing" the outer 1x1 wood trims in order to add and remove the windows over and over (easy but takes a little bit of extra effort, not to mention over time the holes in the wood will become unusable).
Any suggests for how to make the plexiglass portion of this setup quick an easy so there is no more retentive screwing/unscrewing of the wood??
Easy and cheap permanent solution is what I'm after.
I was thinking... I can get nylon spacers. Stick them in the main construction. Add nylon spacers into the 1x1 wood... And then use steel dowel pins in between?? That way I can just attach/detach the 1x1 wood edges anytime I want to make change. No tools needed.
BUT. Maybe there's a better solution? I can't imagine Im the only one with this conundrum but couldn't even figure out what to search for.
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/pxl_20211115_223945165_cb939259b2fd1366dd6e3f705b83b868721907be.jpg[/img]
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Thanks!
I'm almost done building a 10'x12' shed on a 20' x 20' x 6" old slab that was already in the backyard.
As I expected, I have water coming under the bottom plate on two sides. Most of it comes from the right side (as you're looking at it from the front door). And a little is coming under the front door. Note: I left the PT bottom plate across the front door because I expected some need to protect from water.
The shed has PT bottom plates and the "Smart Siding" stops just at that plate. I'm looking for recommendations to seal between the uneven concrete (probably gaps of 1/2" at the lowest part of the concrete) and the bottom plate. I have a French drain around part of the slab and just a rock-filled trench on the other three sides.
Some ideas I have:
1) Some sort of concrete caulk to fill the gaps along the seam between the board and the slab.
2) A bottom piece of trim, cut as close as possible to the contour to the slab and flashed and sealed. I could use a Trex board or a PT that would basically be a sacrificial board and replace it every few years if it rots.
3) Hydraulic cement rolled up and pushed into that seam.
4) Some sort of flexible rubber (or other synthetic) material that I can put along the side to follow the contour. My DIY version of this would start with a sand-filled rubber hose to make it heavy enough to fit in the countour.
5) Patch up the concrete and try to grade it away. (This would be the hardest for me as a DIY because I really don't have any skill with concrete.)
Combinations of all of the above? The wall on the side is much more of an issue than the front wall.
For what it's worth: yes, I'm aware that building a shed on a slab larger than the shed footprint was ill-advised. But budget, time, and future plans to make use of the rest of the slab drove me to do what I did. So here we are...
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[img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/shed_1__32749b2f8a1e50c456d8513d8fe902b53da6cc92.jpg[/img]