Fasteners for knife handle?


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Old 02-25-05, 05:12 AM
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Fasteners for knife handle?

I have an old filleting knife that I've had for 25 years. The blade is still excellent, but the wooden handles are falling apart. They are held in place by three brass rivets that extend through the extension of the blade.

I can make new handles, but don't know how to firmly attach them to the blade. Ideas?

Tom
 
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Old 02-27-05, 02:25 AM
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How about, um... three brass rivets?

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,41306,41327
 
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Old 02-27-05, 09:31 AM
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Hi Tom,
- I did this last year with an old barbecue knife and fork. I made a nice pair of handles for each in walnut, then lightly epoxied them on. After this I drilled two 1/8 holes in each handle and countersunk them a little bit. Next inserted 1/8 brass rod and measured it carefully, then removed and cut it 1/8 overlength, then put back in hole and pounded the ends into the counter sinks like rivet heads. After a little sanding it looked great. If you can get real brass or copper rivets it would be easier.

Do it Right - Do it once.
 
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Old 02-27-05, 09:37 AM
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Thanks!

Thanks for the ideas, guys. If I can't come up with some brass rivets, I'll give the brass rod idea a try.

Tom
 
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Old 05-14-05, 12:07 PM
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I've made many knives, so here's a couple points.
Good epoxy glue is all you need to hold the handle on, the rivots are more for decoration than strength. Try to use longer setting glue (not the 5 minute formula), you should be able to find 90 minute epoxy at most hardware stores.
Most people use clear epoxy. Some people use JB Weld, but it leaves a black line.

Sand the tang of the knife blade to remove old glue and oxidation, but try not to scratch the blade where it will be visible in front of your new handle. Alternatively, you can "hand-polish" the main part of the blade with sandpaper for a beautiful satin finish. Start with 220 grit, go down to 320, then finer...maybe to 800 or 1000 grit. Get all the scratches out from the previous grit before moving to finer.

Cut the handle material oversize. Use the blade as a template, but leave at least 1/8 inch extra for movement and alignment.

Sand the inside of handle material flat, but drill or grind some shallow indents to hold pockets of epoxy glue on the inner sides. Temporarily put one side of the handle on the blade (tape or drop of glue), then drill through the rivot holes into the first side piece. Use a drill press or carefully drill vertical to the blade. Attach the second side of handle, flip it over and drill (vertically) through the holes you previously made. This should give you vertically aligned holes through both sides of the handle and blade tang. Remove the handle sides from the blade (heat will soften glue). Use the blade as a template and draw an outline on both handle pieces.

You might consider using colored liners. These add "pinstripes" along the blade and handle joint. Rough up the material and glue it to the inner sides of the handles. You can order this from knifemaking suppliers, or cut the flat sides of colored plastic containers, such as blue or red antifreeze gallon jugs.

You should be able to pin the two sides together with metal rod the diameter of you holes (1/8 or 1/4 inch?) without the blade. Cut oversize lengths of rod for this step, plus an extra set for final assembly. Now finish shaping and fine sanding the handle at the ricasso area, where the blade will exit the handle. This is the area you can't sand later without scratching the blade.

When the handle sides and blade are ready for final glueing, wipe everything with acetone to remove any oils, sweat, or dust. Acetone will also remove fresh epoxy glue from your hands, tools, or table. Do this work over waxed paper for easier cleanup. Glue one side to the handle, and push the rod material into the drilled holes, push the other side onto the pins. Spread glue on both mating sides, not just one, or you will get gaps. Squeeze everything together so there are no visible gaps. Let it set for awhile before using acetone and a soft scraper to remove glue from the ricasso area. The handle should now be a little oversize everywhere except where the blade comes out. After the epoxy glue is dry, do final shaping of the handle down to the knife tang, and any finger grooves or tapering. Sand and finish with a protective clear coat.

For more information or to order materials:
http://www.texasknife.com/TKS_Mainframe.htm
 
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Old 05-14-05, 12:32 PM
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Wow!

Thanks for the detailed instructions, kbright!

Sounds like with a little work I can make my favorite old knife BETTER than new.

I appreciate the information.

Tom
 
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Old 04-13-09, 07:28 PM
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Thumbs up Helped soo much

I know you posted this a long time ago but I wanted to say thank you because I have been searching the web to find some strait forward instructions for attaching a handle to my knife and this is the best one I have found!!!... Thanks again!
 
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Old 04-14-09, 04:36 AM
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Star, welcome to the forums! Glad you were able to research and find an applicable thread to solve your problem. Got any more questions or problems, just find a forum and fire away. Good to have you on board.
 
 

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