how best to fasten heavy wooden headboard directly to wall

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  #1  
Old 09-14-05, 05:27 AM
Lem
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how best to fasten heavy wooden headboard directly to wall

I constructed a 3'x'5' headboard using molding and furniture grade plywood (maple veneer). It is all wood, and I'm about to stain and urethane it.

The problem is how to fasten it to the wall in a way that will hide the fasteners and not disturb the uniform appearance of the wood grain. We have baseboard heat behind the bed, so I can't place it on legs. I don't see much choice but to fasten it directly to the wall. And since the headboard is quite heavy, and we will be leaning against it, the safest way to do this would be to fasten it directly to studs in the wall. But again, how to do this so that screwheads or bolts won't mar the appearance?

I had initially thought to rout a 1/2" wide hole 3/16" deep, then in the center of that drill and countersink screw holes for relatively heavy wood screws. I'd then cut a 3/16" piece of dowel and use that to hide the screwhead.

This seems rather complicated, however. And when it comes to urethaning the piece, the headboard should be positioned horizontally as it dries in order to avoid drips and runs. If I urethane the wooden plugs separately from the rest of the headboard it will look wierd. Plus the plugs may be prone to pop out over time. And finally, the studs in the wall are not symetrically alinged with the position of the headboard. Overall, this seems just too awkward a solution.

So now I'm trying to figure a way to fasten the headboard from behind. This way the wood grain on the surface won't be disturbed by fasteners. I want the headboard to fit as snugly as possible to the wall, because as I mentioned wife and I will be leaning up against it with pillows.

Best potential solution I have come up with so far:

I could drill round head screws into the wall studs and find some sort of triangular metal picture hanger (the kind typically used for hanging heavy mirrors and paintings with wire, except here there'd be no wire, just the triangular pieces). Then the headboard will be pressing against those screw heads, which in turn will be sticking out about 1/4" from the wall. However, the more screws I try to use as such, the harder it will be to get the triangular pieces slipped over the screw head. The headboard is heavy, and getting even four such triangular fasteners over screwheads that are as tight as possible against the wall would prove very challenging.

Any suggestions re: the best solution for fastening this headboard to the wall?
 
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  #2  
Old 09-14-05, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Lem
I had initially thought to rout a 1/2" wide hole 3/16" deep, then in the center of that drill and countersink screw holes for relatively heavy wood screws. I'd then cut a 3/16" piece of dowel and use that to hide the screwhead.


That's how I'd do it
'Cept I've got a few drill bit's with stop collars on them for the holes
Then I'd finish with a smaller bit to go through to the back
And I've got some pre-cut wood bungs in some different sizes too
Though the dowel thing works too
There a little smaller than 1/2" though
That's much bigger than you need
 
  #3  
Old 09-17-05, 08:20 AM
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If you use dowels of the same species of wood, and are careful to line up the grain when gluing the dowels, this would be fairly inconspicuous. There is no reason that varnish cannot be applied on a vertical surface without running. Cabinets, casings, etc. are finished in place all the time.

For an easier job, go to one of the woodworker supply places locally or on the net and get some wood button plugs. Then you could pre-finisht these and later insert into the proper sized hole. Not invisible, but they look like the "belong" there.
 
  #4  
Old 09-18-05, 04:34 AM
Lem
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Well we'll see how this goes, but I opted not to disturb the surface with plugs.

I got me a 3' length of 1/8" thick 3/4" alluminum angle bracket to fasten the headboard to the wall at the bottom. One face of the angle bracket will screw into the studs in the wall, and the other face attaches to the bottom of the headboard. This bottom assembly will be hidden from view by the bed.

For fastening the headboard at the top, I found some 'ring hangers' (i.e., for hanging pictures) with 1/2" screws that will hang on #10 1 1/4" round head screws, which will in turn be screwed into the wall studs.

This solution results in a very slight discrepancy between how far from the wall the headboard will rest where it attaches at the top and bottom. It places the top of headboard just a smidgeon further away from the wall (about 1/16") at the top compared with the bottom. But I doubt that will matter.

I'll predrill the holes for the angle bracket to match the positions of the wall studs, and with screw holes to fasten it to the bottom of the headboard. But this piece will be assembled last. First I'll put the ring hangers on and hang the headboard. I'll hang the headboard with these fasteners, holding it in position while the wife sungs up the angle piece at the bottom according to the marks I've made, and marks the angle bracket's position (height) on the wall. Then we'll take the headboard down, and I'll screw the angle bracket to the wall. We'll then hang the heaboard back up again, this time with it resting on the 3' piece of anglebracket at the bottom, and screw it in at the bottom.

It seems to me that most of the weight load of the headeboard will be borne by the angle bracket at the bottom, which looks like it should be plenty strong. The ring hangers are then functioning mostly just to keep the headboard in place at the top.

I'm hoping that should fasten the headboard securely enough. We'll see.
 
  #5  
Old 09-19-05, 07:05 AM
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Drywall screws?

Drywall screws are great for "clamping" plywood to a stud. Why not simply countersink some drywall screws right into your studs?
 
  #6  
Old 09-20-05, 01:06 PM
Lem
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Trying to keep the surface of the headboard unblemished. It's luan (sp?) veneered plywood with doorframe molding around the edges and ornamental corner pieces, nice mahagony finish on it. Just an aesthetic thing.
 
  #7  
Old 09-20-05, 03:13 PM
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A few items shown on this page, for example, might work for you: http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...19&cat=3,41306

Especially the taper connectors: http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...306,41319&ap=1

"These taper steel connectors can be used for either flush mounting or joining. Only 1/4" thick and 5/8" wide, they can be surface mounted or mortised. Particularly good for *BLIND MOUNTING* wooden shelf brackets, these are strong connectors. Three lengths available."

You'd have to gouge out some drywall over the stud, and shim, or, surface mount both parts so the headboard floats 1/4" off the wall.
 
  #8  
Old 09-28-05, 06:32 AM
Lem
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Thanks for the advice guys. Those taper conncectors look interesting, I will make a mental note of them for future projects.

It turned out that with considerable irregularity in the straightness of the wall that the course I chose did work out for the best. The wall studs happened to be about 16" apart and, fortunately, centered over the position of the bed. The approx. 40 lbs headboard is now sturdily attached with one hefty screw into each stud at the bottom of the headboard via the 3' bracket, and one sturdy screw each into the studs at the top via the picture hanger hooks. As such, I was able to avoid any fasterners/plugs disturbing the headboard's rich looking surface, which is very nicely finished if I don't say so myself.

Anyway, thanks for the help.
 
  #9  
Old 06-17-08, 10:40 AM
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attatch aheadboard to wall

not sure if you ever got a response and answer to ur prob. i would assume so since this was poosted 2 years ago. i would like to know a solution.
 
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