concrete screws
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concrete screws
i have a few questions about concrete screws , i have offered to help a freind fasten a floorboard to a cinderblock wall and she has asked me to use screws to do this i am assuming i will need concrete screws my questions really is should i predrill for this job if so i assume i want ot drill a hole witha concrete bit and use a bit smaller in diameter than the screw itself or am i totally thinking wrong? basically im hoping i know what im doing but im not sure and please if your advice is to hire a professional i dont really wnat that im trying to learn and help a friend at the same time. btw glues and adhesives will not work the wall has an exterior exsposure and constant temperature changes have proven to render adhesive useless so please just tell me how to fasten it with screws thanks
synergysticsaint
synergysticsaint
#2
You say you are installing a "floor" board to a "wall", which is not too clear. A floor board should be installed on a floor. Anyway, several methods are available. Tapcon makes the blue screws with a special bit that you pre drill with If it will be exposed or capped over, you will want to also countersink the hex heads. Another method is the expanding round headed rawls (not sure what they call them at the big boxes), but you drill a pilot hole in the wood touching the block to index it. Change bits the correct concrete bit, place the fastener through the wood into the hole, and hammer the protruding "nail" head until it is flush.
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Welcome to the forum, Synergyst! You can do this.
I live in a cinder block house, so I have dealt with this on several projects. Like Chandler said, it depends on what you mean by "floorboard" and the load (weight) of what you are trying to fasten. The two brands of blue concrete screws at the big box store are Tapcon & Kwiktap. They come in 3/16" & 1/4", for which you need to drill a 5/32" or 3/16" hole, respectively. I'm reading the box and it says the 3/16" screws can support up to 90 pounds per screw, and up to 215# for the 1/4" per screw. Of course, this depends on the strength of the concrete. They come in flat head or hex head--both with Phillips drive. The biggest problem with these is they can strip, even if you use the special Phillips bit that comes with them. If I am hanging something lighter, like a picture or a light, I find it easier to use plastic anchors with just a regular #8 or #10 screw. For heavier applications, I found the lead anchors easier to use. For those, you drill a bigger hole, slide the lead anchor in the hole, and screw a lag bolt into it, which can be done with a ratchet wrench. They come in different sizes and can hold a lot of weight. You will need to get the right sizes of masonry bits, and the cheap ones will break. I use Bosch bits, which are $6 to $10 a piece. A hammer drill is helpful, but with cinder block, you don't have to have one.
The big box store will have a full section of concrete fasteners for all different applications
I live in a cinder block house, so I have dealt with this on several projects. Like Chandler said, it depends on what you mean by "floorboard" and the load (weight) of what you are trying to fasten. The two brands of blue concrete screws at the big box store are Tapcon & Kwiktap. They come in 3/16" & 1/4", for which you need to drill a 5/32" or 3/16" hole, respectively. I'm reading the box and it says the 3/16" screws can support up to 90 pounds per screw, and up to 215# for the 1/4" per screw. Of course, this depends on the strength of the concrete. They come in flat head or hex head--both with Phillips drive. The biggest problem with these is they can strip, even if you use the special Phillips bit that comes with them. If I am hanging something lighter, like a picture or a light, I find it easier to use plastic anchors with just a regular #8 or #10 screw. For heavier applications, I found the lead anchors easier to use. For those, you drill a bigger hole, slide the lead anchor in the hole, and screw a lag bolt into it, which can be done with a ratchet wrench. They come in different sizes and can hold a lot of weight. You will need to get the right sizes of masonry bits, and the cheap ones will break. I use Bosch bits, which are $6 to $10 a piece. A hammer drill is helpful, but with cinder block, you don't have to have one.
The big box store will have a full section of concrete fasteners for all different applications
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Reading this again, I'm thinking you are talking about baseboards (the wood trim along the floor?) If so, these could easily be fastened with just plastic anchors and countersunk flat head screws. Mine are attached with Liquid Nails, and even the exterior walls hold just fine, but you have to have a clean surface to adhere to.
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concrete screws
yes im sorry i meant baseboards its not wooden though its linoeum and liquid nail has not been affective and i need to use screws to clarify my question sould i have to predrill or will the concrete screws go through themslelves i assume i will have to predrill anyway i thank you for your time and im sorry i am asking such basic questions just don't want to makea mistake and have to do it twice
thanks again
synergisticsaint
thanks again
synergisticsaint
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No such thing as a dumb question, except the one not asked.
I'll tell you, I'm in the middle of a project using the Kwiktap concrete screws (attaching cement board to cinderblock) --they are a pain with cinder block. The problem I keep having is that the holes strip out. This would depend on the strength of the aggregate in your blocks. I'm trying to countersink the flat head screws into the Hardibacker, and even when I'm careful, the hole strips out before I can get it all the way in (so the screw just turns and turns). I'm using the smaller 3/16" screws, for which you are supposed to drill a 5/32" pilot hole.
I'm not clear on what you are trying to attach. You said baseboard, but then you said linoleum? Is it cove base? Cove base usually comes in rolls and is usually vinyl or rubber. There are specific construction adhesives made to adhere to this. If you find somebody helpful at the hardware store and show them exactly what you are trying to adhere to, they will show you the right product. If you make certain that the surfaces are clean, adhesive is the proper way to do this and should work fine regardless of the temperature differences you mention.
In my opinion, concrete screws are overkill and will not look right. If you must use screws, I would get the plastic anchors and screw into them. The package will tell you what size hole to drill (I think it's usually 3'16").
Check these out to see what I mean:
http://www.google.com/search?hs=JPw&hl=en&lr=&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&q=%22cove+base+adhesive%22+&btnG=Search
http://images.google.com/images?hs=JPw&hl=en&lr=&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&q=%22cove%20base%20adhesive%22%20&btnG=Search&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi
I'll tell you, I'm in the middle of a project using the Kwiktap concrete screws (attaching cement board to cinderblock) --they are a pain with cinder block. The problem I keep having is that the holes strip out. This would depend on the strength of the aggregate in your blocks. I'm trying to countersink the flat head screws into the Hardibacker, and even when I'm careful, the hole strips out before I can get it all the way in (so the screw just turns and turns). I'm using the smaller 3/16" screws, for which you are supposed to drill a 5/32" pilot hole.
I'm not clear on what you are trying to attach. You said baseboard, but then you said linoleum? Is it cove base? Cove base usually comes in rolls and is usually vinyl or rubber. There are specific construction adhesives made to adhere to this. If you find somebody helpful at the hardware store and show them exactly what you are trying to adhere to, they will show you the right product. If you make certain that the surfaces are clean, adhesive is the proper way to do this and should work fine regardless of the temperature differences you mention.
In my opinion, concrete screws are overkill and will not look right. If you must use screws, I would get the plastic anchors and screw into them. The package will tell you what size hole to drill (I think it's usually 3'16").
Check these out to see what I mean:
http://www.google.com/search?hs=JPw&hl=en&lr=&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&q=%22cove+base+adhesive%22+&btnG=Search
http://images.google.com/images?hs=JPw&hl=en&lr=&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&q=%22cove%20base%20adhesive%22%20&btnG=Search&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi
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Attaching cement board to cinderblock
No such thing as a dumb question, except the one not asked.
I'll tell you, I'm in the middle of a project using the Kwiktap concrete screws (attaching cement board to cinderblock) --they are a pain with cinder block. The problem I keep having is that the holes strip out. This would depend on the strength of the aggregate in your blocks. I'm trying to countersink the flat head screws into the Hardibacker, and even when I'm careful, the hole strips out before I can get it all the way in (so the screw just turns and turns). I'm using the smaller 3/16" screws, for which you are supposed to drill a 5/32" pilot hole.
I'll tell you, I'm in the middle of a project using the Kwiktap concrete screws (attaching cement board to cinderblock) --they are a pain with cinder block. The problem I keep having is that the holes strip out. This would depend on the strength of the aggregate in your blocks. I'm trying to countersink the flat head screws into the Hardibacker, and even when I'm careful, the hole strips out before I can get it all the way in (so the screw just turns and turns). I'm using the smaller 3/16" screws, for which you are supposed to drill a 5/32" pilot hole.
Trying to remodel my bathroom, It's cinderblock wall, originally had drywall nailed to 1x3 strips... i would like to tile the wall, so wanted to use 1/2 Durock CBU, the original 1x3 were in bad shape so i ripped them out, and now kind of leery of using 1x3 to support all the weight of CBUs and ceramic tiles...
What would you recommend?
I was thinking either attaching CBU to cinderblock directly with tapcons, or using something thicker for furing strips maybe decking 5/4 boards, or even 2x3
i even thought about tiling directly to cinderblock, but it's not very straight...
Thank you in advance for any good advice...
#8
The post you hijacked was nearly a year old, so it is usually best to start a new one so we can get better advice to you quicker. You may find it best to attach the cbu to the concrete wall with PL200 or another good concrete to concrete glue, and use a few tapcon screws to keep it there until the glue dries. Good luck with the project, and post back if we can help further.