Remove folding door brackets glued on to floor?

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  #1  
Old 02-04-15, 06:31 PM
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Remove folding door brackets glued on to floor?

When my fiance moved in we ripped up the carpet and painted the concrete (ground floor condo) as a temporary solution before buying flooring. We've now ordered laminate and are paying for labor too, to get it done quickly, but she wants me to remove the lower brackets for all the closet folding doors before they arrive so the flooring is continuous. I guess we'll either make the current doors work with just the top bracket, or buy new doors.

Anyway, how do I remove the lower bracket? With a concrete subfloor I can't imagine it's drilled in, and I certainly can't see any screw holes, so I'm guessing it's glued on? What does one use to break a strong adhesive like that without damaging (or at least causing minimal damage) to the floor? We just ripped up the vinyl in the kitchen last night since that's going too, and there's a folding door there as well. Along the edge of the bracket definitely looked like something oozed out and dried from underneath the bracket, so again I'm guessing it's glued on, whether directly on to the concrete (guest bedroom) or vinyl (kitchen, entrance). Maybe I'll finally have to buy my first power tool.

Josh
 
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Old 02-04-15, 07:53 PM
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Could be epoxy, or just construction adhesive. Either way, for $10, a masonry cold chisel and a blow from a hammer should knock it off.

Or.... you could get a nice 11264EVS Bosch SDS Rotary hammer and chisel attachment... LOL
 
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Old 02-04-15, 08:26 PM
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Laminate needs a transition strip at all door openings, it should never be laid through it.
Want a seamless floor? Pick a different style of flooring.
Got a picture of these doors?
Anyone done a moisture check on this slab.
One of the many draw backs to laminate is moisture in any form.
There likely going to have to be cut off at the bottom and the bracket mounted to the jamb not the floor.
 
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Old 02-05-15, 07:52 AM
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Thanks for the prompt replies! This forum is awesome.

I've already got a hammer, and a $10 chisel sounds pretty affordable. Just attempted to upload pics, hopefully this worked. Two of them are from inside the closet, and I think the rest are fairly obvious (my dog is in one of them). Were you thinking that the bottom brackets could be remounted on the jambs for these doors? That hadn't even occurred to me. I was just planning on taking off the bottom bracket and sawing off or otherwise removing the springy thing so it doesn't drag and scrape on the new floor. Or just getting new doors that only use a top bracket (I think I saw those, prob at Home Depot, though I could be mistaken).

Good point on the transition strips. They did mention that to us, and it is included in the order. They did a moisture reading and that part seems fine too. This laminate also comes with an underlayment that inhibits moisture and is warrantied for 50 years or so, and got good online reviews, so hopefully it's good. Hawaiian Koa Caramel I think from Home Depot.

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  #5  
Old 02-05-15, 09:30 AM
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We were thinking you had wooden bifolds that just have a pin at the bottom on the jamb side. You can't trim the height of a metal bifold door so it's possible those doors will no longer fit once the laminate is installed. Would the doors clear the flooring if you leave them as is? I'm not sure it's a good idea to install the track over laminate. The track should have tap cons [or similar] securing it to the slab.
 
  #6  
Old 02-06-15, 11:56 AM
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The doors would have plenty of space between them and the flooring if I take out the bracket and the springs on the bottom. We're not planning on reinstalling the bracket onto the new laminate.

Thanks for all the help!
 
  #7  
Old 02-06-15, 12:42 PM
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The adhesive used to secure the bottom track, sure reminds me of Chemrex. It is designed to hold carpet tack strips to concrete and is strong enough to stretch carpet on it. It is some strong, tough stuff and a PITA to get off the concrete. I use a 3" stiff putty knife that can be used as a makeshift chisel to "CUT" under the chemrex. A regular chisel will only dent and destroy your track itself. You will need to get underneath ans sever the bond to the concrete. Think cut not chip and you can get it up.
 
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Old 02-07-15, 09:27 AM
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Duly noted czizzi, thank you.
 
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