Install bifold doors without bottom track

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  #1  
Old 03-30-15, 01:33 PM
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Install bifold doors without bottom track

I was on here awhile ago asking for advice on how to remove the tracks for our old bifold doors. I successfully removed them, the new flooring has been installed, and we're now looking at getting new bifold doors. However, we're having a hell of a time seeing if the bifold doors' hardware involves a bottom track or side thing (we don't want a bottom track glued onto the new flooring). I presume they all have top tracks. Even if it comes with a bottom track, is there a way to not use it and install a fastener into the side wall/jamb that then connects to the door? Is there a special name for such a part? If you could provide a link for Amazon.com or HomeDepot.com or something that'd be even better.
 
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Old 03-30-15, 01:54 PM
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It doesn't use a track on the bottom. Bifolds use an angle bracket (about 2"x3") that is normally screwed to the wall and floor and then a pivot pin fits in that.

If it is solidly attached to the wall, it will normally suffice. If you have base molding going around the corner of the opening, you'll either need to notch or remove it, or deal with a much larger gap on the sides.

Prime Line Prod. 162107 Bottom Pivot Bracket-BOTTOM PIVOT BRACKET - Walmart.com
 
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Old 03-30-15, 02:50 PM
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The only bi fold doors I've seen with a bottom track are the metal bi folds. Use to be real popular in fla but I've not seen any since I moved to tenn.
 
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Old 03-30-15, 02:54 PM
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Oh, that's true, I think the mirror bifolds do use a bottom track because of the weight.
 
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Old 03-30-15, 02:58 PM
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I forgot about the mirrored doors
 
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Old 03-31-15, 01:32 PM
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Thanks for the advice! Our previous bifold doors were metal, but we're going with wood to save on cost. The building was built in 1984, and I wouldn't be surprised if those doors were original, so maybe they were popular back then.

We do have a gap in the base molding, so we should be fine there. Looking at the link you gave (thanks again for that), it looks like the pivot pin will protrude slightly past the bracket. If the bracket is usually screwed into the floor, I'm guessing the pivot pin usually drags along the floor. If we try to keep the floor untouched, I'm guessing we could install the bracket a little higher than normal? If we run out of space in the opening, we could just shave off the top or bottom? I'm guessing this whole thing sounds weird, but my fiance really likes the flooring and hates the idea of door hardware on it.
 
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Old 03-31-15, 04:13 PM
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No the pin won't touch the floor. It's knurled/grooved and locks in place on top of the bracket. It rotates slightly as the door is opened and closed, but into the threaded part that is in the door, not at the bracket.

To avoid any marring from movement or vibration, you could make a small thin spacer out of rubber gasket material or similar.

What kind of flooring was it? If actual solid hardwood, I'd pre-drill and screw the bracket down. Simple to patch the holes later...for the next owner I mean. You won't be there forever.

Of course if it's laminate or floating, might not want to go that route.
 
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Old 04-01-15, 08:06 PM
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We have laminate. What do you suggest? Why is drilling into laminate a bad idea?
 
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Old 04-01-15, 09:16 PM
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Laminate is normally floating (and thus needs to move) and not really thick enough to anchor the bracket. Nailed or glued down wood would be a different story.
 
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Old 04-02-15, 11:31 AM
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Yup, ours is floating. That makes sense, thanks again!
 
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