Need advice installing IKEA wall shelves


Old 08-07-15, 06:12 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 1
Need advice installing IKEA wall shelves

Hello. I'm planning on going to IKEA to buy enough wall shelves to cover the longest wall in my bedroom for my extensive library of books, and I was hoping to get some advice on the best way of ensuring those shelves are able to handle the load of my books.

Specifically, I'm wondering about the wall uprights here:

ALGOT Wall upright - 22 " - IKEA

I have three choices of length. 22", 33 1/8", and 77 1/8" inch. My initial assumption is that I'd be better off with the 22", as they'd hold fewer shelves than the other two, holding fewer books, and thus have less weight to support, but my brother told me that was the exact opposite and that I needed the 77 1/8" wall uprights to support the weight of the shelves and books I'd put on it. So which is correct?

I'm also going to be using drywall anchors (I have a drywall) to further support my wall shelves. Is there anything else I could do to strengthen them and make sure they can carry the load of my books (I have over 800 books, ranging from small paperbacks to hardcovers)? And would this suspension rail help if I were to anchor it to the wall studs? (I'd anchor all the wall uprights to the wall studs if I could, but sadly the shelves I want aren't the correct width, so I'll only be able to screw a few into the wall studs)

ALGOT Suspension rail - 26 " - IKEA

I'd appreciate any and all advice. Thank you.
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Old 08-07-15, 06:36 AM
Join Date: May 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 3,138
I would use the long uprights and the suspension rail. Anchor the suspension rail into either the top plate of the wall or the wall studs, and fasten as many of the uprights into studs as you can. Using the long uprights allows you to have more fasteners giving you more shear strength. Fastening into framing also gives you much more shear strength than just drywall anchors. If you can get the bottom end of the uprights to rest on the floor, that would be even better as it transfers some of the load to the floor. But in a room with molding along the floor that could be hard to do.

Use the largest diameter fasteners you can and try to get them 1 1/2 inches into the framing at least (which means using at least 2" long fasteners).

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