Fixing broken drawer.


Old 08-18-15, 07:05 AM
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Fixing broken drawer.

My kitchen drawers are custom made and until I find someone who can do them for me I have to make do with gluing them together.

They are mostly plastic, the bits that clip the drawer body to the main panel with the handle have fallen apart so I have to rely on adhesives to keep them together.
From a quick search online, it seems the parts are Polyethelyne and Polypropylene, both types are listed on most glue products as not being able to be bonded.

I've tried a clear contact adhesive which held on for a few months but eventually failed. I'm thinking of using something stronger like liquid nails but I don't know much about that, if it holds plastic well or has any negative effects used with that material since it's mostly used as a construction glue.

Locally I have access to Liquid nails, gorilla glue, some china brand plastic weld and various epoxy and epoxy putty products.

I don't know which of these is the best to hold plastic bits together, any input would help.
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Old 08-18-15, 07:12 AM
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I'd consider installing an L bracket bolted to both sides.
Old 08-18-15, 07:47 AM
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In the picture the plastic parts still look to fit together well--but the locking bits are broke. IF there's still enough solid interlocking surface for adhesive to work I would try OSI Quad caulk (Home Depot, etc). It's an outdoor weather sealer but I've never found anything quite as tenacious on all types of materials.

Have you considered having the drawers re-made using a quality 1/2" plywood (Baltic Birch, Apply Ply...) that most cabinet makers use? Your drawer faces can then be re-used on the new boxes.
Drawers see a lot of harsh use and any adhesive without mechanical fasteners will fail.
Old 08-18-15, 07:51 AM
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You can try super glue, it's hit and miss. Super glue is used though with success to glue plastic tip out tray sides to the tray body. Use it sparingly and hold pieces firmly together for a minute or so.
More glue is not better, just place dots around the perimeter.

If you have enough of the front nubs left (that insert into the sides) you can drill a few pilot holes and use #6 pan head sheet metal screws to hold the sides to the nubs. I did this with an old fridge in garage and it holds the bins in nicely.
Old 08-18-15, 08:13 AM
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Thank you for the quick replies.

Yes, the locking bits are broken but the parts still all fit together.

I'm worried I might make things worse with L brackets but I'm looking into it as an option if glue fails again.

The place that originally made them for the apartments in the building where I live no longer exists. It will take some time to find a place, go over the design, get fittings and actually have them done, which is why I'm hoping i can do this with glue.

My main issue now is which type of glue I use. As I've said, from a quick search online it seems the plastic is either Polyethelyne or Polypropylene which is really just a guess based on other parts being made from those plastics. Most glues have warnings on their packaging stating they don't work on those plastics.

Superglue is an option (i've been reading up a bit), but because of the flex or stress in the area it might not be the best choice (I don't totally understand everything I read). It seems something that allows for a bit of flex is a better option like liquid nails but I don't know how well it holds plastic. Another product I found was this epoxy putty which can be shaped, sanded and drilled. I thought it might be good to fix the locking area but like the other stuff I don't know how well it will hold on to the plastic.
Old 08-18-15, 05:45 PM
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I would try pop rivets with washers.
Old 08-26-15, 08:11 AM
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Broken plastic draw

Well first let me say there are several types of plastics and some have a petrochemical structure that will not allow them to be glued. Most plastics can be welded but this may not be feasible in this case. Car grilles for example can be welded. Gluing a fractured plastic face almost never works, U need to ask why the plastic fractured in the first place. Low quality plastics break down over time. As one contributor said, remake in a 3 or 4 ply for base and sides using same front, its very basic wood work skills but U do need the right tools. Face to face gluing of plastic which is under a stress or dead point load is not likely to last any time at all. You can add thin strip of wood or metal across the break and this gives rigidity to the join, its also transfers any load over a wider area but here we are talking a draw and it may not be feasible. If the draws are important to U I would seek out a friend who has basic wood working skills to knock up a draw carcus as we say using the same front.
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