Seeking bolt cutter that is flat on one side and concave on the other
I need to grind off the tips of threaded bolts with a metal grinder to make them the correct length. What I知 doing now is I知 throwing on a nut and using a metal grinder to chop off the portion of the bolt extends beyond the nut.
It痴 not a clean process since my hand isn稚 steady and I end up cutting into the nut, not only that, I have to brace or clamp down the item.
The problem with a regular bolt cutter is it won稚 cut flush to the nut. I知 wondering if a bolt cutter exists that will cut flush to the nut?
Use two nuts and jam them tight together, Then use a hacksaw to cut off the bolt.
Or
Install a nut past where you want to cut off the bolt. Mark the bolt length to the nearest thread and cut off using a hacksaw following the angle of the threads. Turn off the nut to clean up the threads.
You can cut the bolts to length before installing them. That way you can do it in a workshop where the conditions are more controlled and you can grind the end of the bolts square & pretty and put a nice chamfer on the end so the nuts start easily.
The most common method is to just use a grinder or cutoff wheel. Like anything you'll get better with practice. Sometimes hitting the cut end with a sander can clean up the cut and make it look a bit more presentable.
Then there is the manual hacksaw. It's much slower so you can have more control and may be able to make a neater cut than the grinder. You could also try a fine tooth metal cutting blade in a reciprocating saw. Still, I'd pick the grinder or cutoff wheel first.
I don't think OP mentioned the size of the bolt being cut, but for machine screws no larger than a #10, I used wire strippers similar to the one below. Run the screw in the threaded side of the stripper, close to cut the screw and removing the screw chases the threads. Easy to reproduce matching screw lengths.
Have an upcoming project that may include use of a nailer. As nails are cycled through the nailer, what happens to the plastic strip that held the nails? Does it eject from the nailer, or just fall out somehow?
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Hey Gang
I was having a tough time deciding if this was one for this forum or the auto repair crew.
I'm restoring this old commercial dough mixer. I have the unit largely broken down ready for blasting and refinishing. I'm down to the last four bolts that I need to remove. Here's the problem.
The housing including the bowl lifter and strap locks are aluminum. The slot head screws/bolts are steel. I've used penetrating oil and impact drivers. These bolts wont budge. This thing was made in the 80's and those bolts haven't turned since.
I was thinking to use a drag link socket on a breaker bar but I'm afraid I might just shear the head off.
I'm also being told I can heat it but I'm not sure weather to heat the steel nut or the aluminum housing?
I also have no idea how much heat to add. I don't want to damage the housing. Replacement parts are not available for this thing. I'm not sure if I can melt any of this with a garden variety propane soldering torch.
If I do heat... do I allow it to full cool before attempting to remove it? And then how much force can one safely apply?
I'm thinking since this are steel bolts in an aluminum housing this is a case of galvanic corrosion but I can't find anything useful out there on how to free it up.
I'm hoping someone might have some clever suggestion as to how to free up these bolts without destroying anything?
Thanks all!
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