heatpump in & out repacement?


  #1  
Old 07-18-04, 11:25 PM
NancyCrew
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Unhappy heatpump in & out repacement?

Three days ago I had to call a tech to come check the freon in my unit. It had frozen up for the 2nd time in a year on the inside frame. After checking the drainage line and thawing out and cleaning off the coils and screen and still no results, I called a pro! He checked and there was almost no freon - not a good sign, filled it and said he'd be back in a couple weeks to check the level and determine if it is a slow leak I can wait out or a fast leak I'll need to take care of. Well, it froze up again this afternoon - question answered! After discussing possibilities and options, he told me that I'd probably want to replace both the inside and outside units, even though the outside unit was ok. He said since this is the original unit, 23 years old, that I'd want to make sure everything was compatible.

I was very comfortable with his knowledge and explanation and felt like this was probably true - is it?

While discussing my options, I asked about upgrading to a more effecient unit. My house is a single story with a finished downstairs/garage and a full attic. The unit I have now is 3 1/2 ton and he suggested that it would absolutely be more efficient in the long run to go 1/2 ton more, that all my ductwork would accomodate the upgrade. He also said to look for a 12 or 14 rating of something or other, but higher than that is complicated and really not necessary for my house.

My questions is...Does all this sound correct, inside and outside replacement, the upgrade, the rating of the whatever, and if so, is there a particular brand or brands that are better than others?

Also, I cleaned out a lot of mold on the insulation just under the coils and asked him about that because of my alergies. He said there's a newer method of air purification that would kill any mold spores (along with many other things) being circulated through the system - UV lighting. Have you had any experience with this type purifier and if so, how effective is it?

Thanks!!!!!!!
 
  #2  
Old 07-19-04, 04:40 AM
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Well Nancy, Being 20 years old you are probably due for a new system. The best route to go is to get at least 3 estimates and be sure each one does a heat gain/loss calculation on your home. Being 20 years old they can't just go by the size of the old one or the square footage of your house. That way you will get the properly sized system for your home no questions.

The uv's work but can be expensive. A 4" pleated filter will keep everything clean. The mold you had under the coil could have accumulated over 20 years of service.
 
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Old 07-19-04, 02:00 PM
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as mentioned, replace the coil and outdoor unit. your need for higher SEER depends on where you live ( yearly run time)

UV lights and media are what i have on my units

what brand was he quoting?
 
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Old 07-19-04, 06:23 PM
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Wink

He also said to look for a 12 or 14 rating of something or other, but higher than that is complicated and really not necessary for my house.
You said heatpump there. you also dont say where you are.
But with the heat pump you can get up to a HSPF of 8.90
and a SEER of 17.90 so it might be good to look into them. They arent any more complicated than what you have now.

ED
 
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Old 07-19-04, 08:37 PM
NancyCrew
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Red face

Thanks for all the attention! OK, here goes...we are now at step 2...

First of all, we live in Birmingham, AL, our current unit is a Miller Heat Pump which apparently has had a new compressor installed sometime between 1991 and 2001. He came back out today and gave me a price of $3,500 for a Duquaine (sp?) or Rheem for 3,650. He also did a heating/cooling ratio (?) and determined that I required 40,500 btu, so all I'd need is a 3.5 ton, 12 SEER, unit.

We had another guy come for a 2nd opinion. He took the housing off the outside unit and took a reading with his little "thing" and found quite an impressive leak in the holding tank outside at the compressor. He also found a minimal leak in the coils but said there was no way to determine how much life it had left. He did say he could replace the tank for about $350 or $400, but couldn't say how long any of the other parts would last. He is in the process of working up a quote and will let us know in the morning. He said he was partial to Rheem, that he used to sell nothing but Carrier, but that the quality has dropped recently. He said he always tells his customers to always make sure they get the longest warranty they can.

So now we are waiting to get his quote to compare it to the first guy's quote. It seems to me that they both know what they're talking about. Any suggestions about whole/partial replacement? What manufacturer to use? Fortunately, our house came equiped for just such situations - we have an attic fan. Also, the Lord has given us remarkable weather tonight and tomorrow, low humidity!

Thanks again for your help!!!!!
 
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Old 07-19-04, 08:41 PM
NancyCrew
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Question

By the way, what is a gain/loss ratio and exactly how is it conducted?
 
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Old 07-25-04, 12:35 PM
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the heat load is a calculation that takes into consideration

slab or crawlspace or basement
sq fottage
how the home faces geographically
size and type of window openings
construction of walls
insulation factor on walls floors and attic
overhang of eave
where you live
etc etc

you can do one online for 50 bucks

i do not like ducane, they are a lower end unit

although i am an "amana man" rheem is a good unit, generally i see a longer lifespan with them than carrier, trane or lennox here in atlanta

this price includes the entire air handling unit and outdoor unit? be sure they change the tstat too

where is the blower unit located? attic? basement? etc
 
 

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