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UV Light in duct work

UV Light in duct work

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#1

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08-08-04, 06:46 PM

clockmaker

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UV Light in duct work

I have heard that installing a UV light in the trunk line behind the condenser as it leaves the unit will kill mildew and mold that grows in that area and help purify the air, is this true and what kind should I install if so.

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#2

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08-11-04, 09:13 AM

Ed Imeduc

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Yes they do work fine.
Go http://www.honeywell.com/yourhome

you can read up on them there .

ED

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08-11-04, 04:58 PM

hvac4u

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i have one in all my units. bulbs must be replaced yearly, DIY, much cheaper

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#4

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09-25-04, 07:42 PM

heatman

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UV Light for duct work

Allanson makes a great UV light product called the swordfish.

Last edited by hvac4u; 09-26-04 at 07:34 AM.

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Heat Pumps and Electric Home Heating
New Heat Pump Thermostat Wiring Question

A

AT_DALLAS on Sep 15, 2004

I have a Lennox system, cooling unit model 12HPB60-2P, indoor heat unit 80UHG (Gas). Was told it is a heat pump system, running with a Robertshaw therstat, mod 300-208. Wiring is followed (has been there when I moved in): White - W1, Yellow - Y1, Green - G, Red - 24v, Blue - 24v(c), Orange - O, a jumper connects R to 24v, and No wire connects to B (open). Now, I want to replace with a Honeywell. Got one, model T8611G2051 Chronotherm IV Plus but the wiring instruction seems to confusing. It is for zoning, TotalZone or EMM-3U. I am not sure which wire go with which terminal. The terminals on T8611G2051 are: - in one row: OC, C, OT, OT, L - in another row: R, W2, OC, E, Y, O/B (one term), G, a jumper connect E and Y (it is there out of the box). This is my first time with thermostat and I seems the technology is a bit beyond me. I would appreciate your help (I read Ed's reply to another similar question but I still do not understand fully yet). Thanks. Andy :confused:Read More
Heat Pumps and Electric Home Heating
Back to well water cooling / heating

E

energy_freak on Sep 19, 2004

I didn't know where to post this so I assumed that this would be the most suitable forum. Please try to bear with me and my lack of knowledge on the area as I am not a specialist. Here is what I have: 1. I have 4000 sq. ft residence in Chicago land with many glass windows facing west (this helps a lot in the winter and is absolutely miserable during summer) 2. Two older (10 years) Carrier or Bryant (who cares) A/C units 3 ton each per floor 3. Two considerably oversized 110000 Input BTU Carrier 80 plus forced air gas furnaces. 4. Two 50 Gal gas water heaters 5. Well water (private well) bringing very hard water from 250ft below at 53F all year around. 6. A retention pond outside the residence Here is the list of known issues which I have to resolve before I embark on this project: 1. Ensure consistent supply of well water inside the house @ 30-40 GPM??!! 2. Provide adequate well water conditioning (can’t use chemical water softener due to prohibitive cost and maintenance) in order to avoid any scaling and possible damage to extensive future plumbing set up, heat exchangers, etc. 3. Find very efficient water to air heat exchanger / coil which of course would be a function of size, material, GPM input and output T. 4. Find very efficient all electrical on-demand hot water boiler. 5. Install proper attic ventilation (Attic Fans) 6. Secure permit to dump water in retention pond. Here is my plan of revamping the whole set-up: First of all, I am planning to use water as a main cooling and heating media. Secondly, I would like to use extensively smart ventilation in order to reduce heat/cooling load and conserve well water as much as I can (I know that I have a pretty strong well but still pulling 15-30 GPM to cool a house is a scary prospect). While most concern is focused on home air tightness and size of the mechanical systems, proper ventilation of the home is often overlooked. Also, in terms of indoor air quality and pollution control, ventilation may be even more important. In my house, the only mechanical ventilation systems installed are 3 poorly made and noisy bathroom fans (two upstairs and one downstairs). These fans are seldom used for extended periods due to their high noise level, and are completely inadequate for ensuring proper ventilation to an entire house. I would like also to conserve water table whenever it is possible; therefore, if the outside temperature is above 30F I would want to use an air/Freon setup (I will have build an intake duct to pump that air from outside) rather than water/ Freon. I am also planning to take the air from solar heated areas of the house (including the attic) and distribute it all around the house during the winter time. Obviously if the temperature drops below a certain point, such as 30F, I would have to cut off the air supply and turn on the water loop to increase energy efficiency of the future unit. Of course, I am not sure if those temperature cut off points are sensible at all in terms of energy consumption. During the summer months, not even properly designed and engineered water to air heat exchange (I am not talking about various car evaporators) will be able to produce comfortable dry air in the hot and humid Chicago climate; therefore, I know that I have to add a dehumidification stage. I want to stress that I am not at all interested to buy a pre-packaged Water Furnace or an FHP geothermal heat pump because the only time I would need them is in the winter and I never found a dual system capable of working in both modes (water or air). So, the real question is, what do I do in winter time as I have heat sink coming to my house at 30-53F? Can I use a properly designed dehumidification stage to reverse it and heat the air? I can leave the current gas heaters but I hate to do that because NICOR is simply another mafia which is charging whatever they want for gas during the winter season (I hate mafia’s or monopolies in any shape or form not to forget absolutely uncontrolled spiraling cost of energy, so, it is a matter of principal if you will). I really want to get rid of gas utility all together and go electric. Talking to numerous people, I realize that I have to build the system without using pre-packaged solution unless somebody here can direct me to the right people who can help me to put it all together.Read More

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