My fiance and I are avid DO IT YOURSELFERS. We're young and just bought our first house, which was somewhat of a fixer upper. We're out in the country and have found that we can usually fix a problem ourselves for less then a professional's trip charge to come out here. I usually try to do internet research until I can find a solution...but this one has really stumped us! This is a 2001 double wide home with a 2001 Intertherm/nordyne heat pump. We used the heat pump this winter and seemed fine. This summer when we began using the AC, we noticed a wet spot in front of the closet where the inside unit is housed. We planned to get a "snake" to clear the drain-but the next day the fan stopped turning. (outside unit comes on and is working fine, we can hear refrigerant swishing around inside and then the coils freeze up.) Could it be possible that the drain was clogged and the drip pan filled up and dripped on the fan and motor? We took the "squirrel cage" out and cleaned all of the blades in fan. We plugged the motor itself to the wires on inside unit and it didnt spin. I think I need to check the relay/fuse next and dont know how to access it. could you explain how? If the Relay isnt bad-do I replace the motor?? Does it sound like we are going in the right direction?

First, does anyone know if I can replace a compresser motor start capacitor that has failed with one that has a slightly higher MFD rating? The one I took out is rated at 176-211MFD 330Vac and has a 150 Ohm resistor across the terminals. The only one I could find that was close was rated at 189-227MFD 330Vac. I also found one that was rated at 161-193MFD 330Vac. Can I use the 189-227MFD cap with a 150 Ohm resistor, or does the resistance have to change slightly? I am currently doing battle with this ten year old WaterFurnace brand open loop system. It has not worked correctly since the day it was installed by the "qualified and licensed" professionals from a local pumbing company that charged way too much for poor quality work. Initially, the two-story 3,000 sqft house with a finished basement was All on one zone. Then the contractor separated the first and second floors and put a thermostat to control the second floor in a room where there were no registers. The stages have never been set right and it always goes into emergency heat mode whenever a thermostat calls for heat. It has also suffered multiple voltage surges--one from a lighting strike and the others from the power company. In May I came home from college to my parents house and found that the 100 amp backup electric heater had been on for two months straight 24/7 without the blower fan running. I turned off all power to the unit until I could find out what was wrong with it. I opened the furnace and found that the start capacitor for the compresser had exploded and shorted against the metal enclosure of the furnace. I am very hesitant to call the company that initially installed this unit because they have failed to show me that they know anything about it. They are a reputable company in the area installing standard NG and LP units, however they messed up every aspect of this progect including the ducting supply and returns, well pump size requirements for the furnace, zoning and thermostat control. Any help in this matter would be greatly appreaciated since the days are getting cooler and this furnace has not worked since May. Adam