No Heat from Rudd !

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  #1  
Old 12-02-04, 03:23 PM
Ted Alberta Sr
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No Heat from Rudd !

I have a 4-5 year old Rudd Achiever 10 HP, with an in door handler. It has worked good for the past year ( since we moved in) and only needed a switch and gas so far. Its a replacement, cause the handler is a 2.5 ton and the HP is a 3.0 ton, which I hear is wrong, big time. The handler should be replaced, starting to get a little rusty down at the pan, but works nonr the less.
When I fired it up to get some heat ,( this is Georgia, so its not rel cold, yet) all I got was the electric emergency heat to work, seemed it was not switching to heat from cool.
First tech said gas was OK. Probably the thermostat, he fooled with it , went back to the heat pump, said it might be the copper valve which switchs, never figured it out. Paid him, three hours.
Next tech said " out of freon " ( the first clown let it all out, cause I stood there and watched the second guy with his meters, replace it.) OK< now the second guy says its suppossed to default to heat, no matter what. But it doesn't, if I crank it up in heat, it is cool, if I switch it to cool, it's cool.
If I disconnect the relay, that black plug that goes to the switching selonoid ( like a washer has), nothing happens. The second guy says it is probably the PC board that lays in the breakout box in the HP, above all the copper.
Right now I am using just the handler in fan to pull hot air around the house, the dis-connect is out of the HP.
The second tech did a jump by didconnecting a brown wire from the setup and shorting it to a post on the PC board.
What would thre next step be , short of explosives ?
 
  #2  
Old 12-02-04, 05:55 PM
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Lots AND LOTS of ifs here.Where to start???When you turn heat on did or does the outdoor unit come on fan and compressor. Does it run at all . Does the big copper line get hot? If you turn it to AC does it all run does the big copper line get cold and wet???. Could be lots of thing the guys could have contaminate the system with noncondensables blowed up the board in it from the short you said about. like you said no way can you put a 3 ton compressor on to a 2.5 ton coil. when you put the tstat in AUX there you should have the blower with the electric strip heaters. Play around with it and come back we mught be able to tell you more.


ED
 
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Old 12-02-04, 06:41 PM
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those units are not real complicated. does the outdoor unit run in heat, but you get no heat unless it is in emer heat?

that setup, oversized o/d unit can easily cause the high head pressure reset to trip, especially if the filter is dirty.

had gas put in? how is it now?

reversing valve is fail safe COOL, NOT HEAT on that unit!! only rheem and ruud are ones that are. it must have 24 volts for heat on B wire going outside. if the stat has an O/B switch or terminal, use it with switch on B, if seperate terminals use B. B terminal at tstat should have 24 volts on it with call for heat. this is what you need, to energize reversing valve.

where in atlanta are you?
 
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Old 12-03-04, 08:53 AM
Ted Alberta Sr
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Reply to RUDD Unit...

Hello ! OK, Thanks , so far.....
If the plug at the solinoid at the cooper heat/cool valve reads 24VDC, does that mean the system is trying to energize that solinod and switch to heat?
If cool is the default, then in cool mode thast wire should not get any voltage reading, yes or no?
When in the heat mode, that wire to the solinode should read 24VAC, yes or no?
If it does read 24VAC in heat, but does not switch, wouldn't it stand to reason the switching valve is hanging up?
To go back, the compressor gos on the fan goes on and the green light on the tmst is on( just means the elec strips are on, right? ). I amchecking the bigger copper line for heat, in heat mode, now. Standby. Thanks.....
 
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Old 12-06-04, 07:58 PM
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if there is power to the valve and it is not moving, it is bad. try on and off a few times see if it will free up
yes, voltage to solenoid in heat
 
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Old 12-07-04, 07:13 AM
Ted Alberta Sr
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to HVAC4U in Atlanta..

HVAC4U !! I am in Acworth. Question is what does the PC board do? Is it what they are calling it at the distributor, a defrost control board? If so, could that be the problem ?? I am going to shuttle the system and see if it frees up. Thanks, TED
 
  #7  
Old 12-30-04, 06:00 PM
robbie
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If your getting voltage to the solenoid, then the thing is trying to go into heat mode. Sometimes contaminants in the freon lines can jam the piston in the valve. you can try tapping on the valve in an effort to free it. Keep in mind if you ding or deform that piston tube at all, the valve is history.
 
 

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