Hello, I'm trying to replace an old Bryant mercury tstat for my Bryant HP with Emergency Heat and Air Conditioning, with a new Totaline P274-2100 programmable. I understand the using a programable with a HP may not shed much savings, but my old 'looks' old!

The wire color set up on my original 8-wire tstat (which has dual settings for heat and coling/auto) looked like this:

Black - W2
Green - G
Yellow - Y
Blue - E
Red - R
Brown - C
White - L
Orange - O

The new Totaline has many options, but it isnt clear where I need to put my existing wires. Here are the options on the new tstat:

O/W2
Y1/W2
R
G
Y/Y2
W/W1
C
B
L

As you can see it is very confusing. Can anyone tell me what colors wires go where? I even have pics of the current set up and my attemp at the new one.

Thanks!!

 

That's actually a commercial stat with 3 stage heat and 2 stage cooling. I don't have the wiring schematic for that stat. I can pm you my fax number if you want to send it to me.

 

I have been out of town, but still have some issues on the new stat. Yes, I just heard it was the commercial version and I'm told they are sending me the residential version soon. But the wiring is to be the exact same (which is where my issue is). Here is how I was told to wire the unit from the stat manf.:

Red - to R
Brown - to C
Yellow - to Y/Y2
Green - to G
Black - to W/W1
Blue - Do not connect *
Orange - to O/W2
White - Do not connect**

They then told me to hook the BLUE wire (Emergency Heat) to same switch as the BLACK. This means that when the heat does kick on, the emergency heat kicks on too. That can become very expensive when there is only a degree or two that it needed to climb. Typically just the heat pump can do that. I did not hook up the BLUE (just to test) and the Em HEat seemed to kick on anyway!

My old stat had two merc switches for the heat (and the cooling had two as well). If I only increase the desired temp a little bit the heat-pump would kick on, if I increased it a little more you would hear the emergency heat kick on (or simply flick the EM Heat switch). This stat, wired as it is will run the em heat every time which feels great, but my electric bill is going to be through the roof.

There are 4 DIP switches that you can set, one to indicate you have EM heat option on your unit, but they told me to make sure they were all set to OFF. I'm not sure why though.

Do you know how to get this stat wired so that em heat only comes on when there is a big difference between the desired temp and the actual?

Thanks for any help!!!

http://www.totaline.com/corp/details...TI7416,00.html

 

Here is the Installation Instructions for the new stat. 2.6MB PDF
http://home.indy.rr.com/phillyblunt/...stallation.pdf

Current Heat Unit:
Bryant Model 517EN036 (Forced Air/Heat Pump w/ electric resistance auxillary het)

Current Air Unit:
Bryant Model 690ANX03000D (Air/Heat Pump)

 

I looked at that wire lay out .All I can say is do you know if the heat pump 4 way valve is in cool or heat all the time. Some old units are in cool and have to turn on for heat. With the new units the valve is in heat are fails in heat so it has to work if you go to AC.



ED

 

I really dont know. I know the unit is about 15 years old. I have pics of the old stat and wiring, but not sure if that would help.

http://home.indy.rr.com/phillyblunt/OldStat1.jpg

and

http://home.indy.rr.com/phillyblunt/OldStat2.jpg

 

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. You are wasting your money on the new stat.

 

The old is broke... and the new one was free!