electrical heating a large room
#1
07-30-05, 09:31 AM
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electrical heating a large room
Looking for a way to heat 500 sq feet. Don't have a lot of circuit power available, I'm thinking of oil filled radiator type space heaters as opposed to blower type. I need to get through one winter before I can come up with a permanent solution. It's a poorly insulated MH. It will get below freezing here, but not much colder than that.
#3
07-31-05, 10:34 AM
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In the coldest part of winter the lows can be in the mid 30's, occasionally dipping into the 20's. It usually warms up during the day to the 60's even 70's sometimes. I just need to get through the cold nights and mornings.
I was thinking that the oil filled ones might draw less current than the fan types
since they heat up more slowly, several fan types might keep tripping my breakers.
I also thought the oil filled ones might be a little safer to leave unnattended.
I was thinking that the oil filled ones might draw less current than the fan types
since they heat up more slowly, several fan types might keep tripping my breakers.
I also thought the oil filled ones might be a little safer to leave unnattended.
#4
07-31-05, 12:43 PM
Super Moderator
cimmaronjim,
Most plug in heaters are between 1200 and 1500 watts and it doesn't matter if they are oil filled, ceramic or any other transfer medium. They will all draw the same current to heat your space.
Also, these heaters are meant as temporary devices and no style is any safer than another in heating a space permanently.
The safest temporary solution would be to have an electrician wire in a 30 amp 220 volt plug and use a portable electric construction heater.
They come with built in thermostats.
Most plug in heaters are between 1200 and 1500 watts and it doesn't matter if they are oil filled, ceramic or any other transfer medium. They will all draw the same current to heat your space.
Also, these heaters are meant as temporary devices and no style is any safer than another in heating a space permanently.
The safest temporary solution would be to have an electrician wire in a 30 amp 220 volt plug and use a portable electric construction heater.
They come with built in thermostats.
#5
07-31-05, 11:41 PM
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Thanks, Greg. I'll figure something out but I don't have the capacity for another 110 circuit let alone 220V.
#6
08-01-05, 05:46 AM
Super Moderator
When you say capacity I assume you mean space in the panel to fit in a breaker.
I'm afraid that there is no simple solution to be able to heat this space without investing some funds.
If you provide a more detailed description of your house, its electrical and how the main part of the house is heated, maybe we can come up with something for you.
I'm afraid that there is no simple solution to be able to heat this space without investing some funds.
If you provide a more detailed description of your house, its electrical and how the main part of the house is heated, maybe we can come up with something for you.
#7
08-01-05, 06:27 AM
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Hi Greg. It's a small mobile home, and it has a gas furnace , but I really don't want to use it. It would have to be converted to LPG if it is even still servicable.
I have 200 amp service from pedestal to a 100 amp panel. There are unused slots in the cover but no corresponding lugs in the box.
I am in a very warm climate but still need some winter heat.
My eventual goal is to install a hydronic radiant floor system using solar and wood heated water with electric back up.
Propane is extremely expensive here and I would like to get away from using it.
I was just looking for a way to make it through winter until I can complete the project. I may just have to do something sooner than I had planned, perhaps get the furnace going with propane or install a subpanel and 220V heater.
I have 200 amp service from pedestal to a 100 amp panel. There are unused slots in the cover but no corresponding lugs in the box.
I am in a very warm climate but still need some winter heat.
My eventual goal is to install a hydronic radiant floor system using solar and wood heated water with electric back up.
Propane is extremely expensive here and I would like to get away from using it.
I was just looking for a way to make it through winter until I can complete the project. I may just have to do something sooner than I had planned, perhaps get the furnace going with propane or install a subpanel and 220V heater.
#8
08-01-05, 08:34 AM
Super Moderator
cimmaronjim,
Often the unused slots are for the space a large electric furnace breaker occupies.
Being a mobile makes it a bit more difficult.
We owned a mobile with an addition at the front entrance and a 12 x 20 master bedroom addition. These were heated with electric baseboard because of the difficulty in extending the ductwork from the oil furnace.
What I also did was install an 8' electric baseboard with a wall mounted thermostat in the hallway for the "in between" season. (Our temp can get lower than -30F in the winter.
)
It is not easy working within the floor space under a trailer which would make your radiant heat idea somewhat impractical.
I would suggest that since the gas furnace is in place you may find that converting to propane might be your best short term plan.
I would also suggest that rather than a high tech radiant heat solution, upgrading your insulation value would be better.
If you contact a propane supplier they may give you a break on the conversion to get your business. Contact more than one and right now would be good as they likely have time on their hands.
Often the unused slots are for the space a large electric furnace breaker occupies.
Being a mobile makes it a bit more difficult.
We owned a mobile with an addition at the front entrance and a 12 x 20 master bedroom addition. These were heated with electric baseboard because of the difficulty in extending the ductwork from the oil furnace.
What I also did was install an 8' electric baseboard with a wall mounted thermostat in the hallway for the "in between" season. (Our temp can get lower than -30F in the winter.
)It is not easy working within the floor space under a trailer which would make your radiant heat idea somewhat impractical.
I would suggest that since the gas furnace is in place you may find that converting to propane might be your best short term plan.
I would also suggest that rather than a high tech radiant heat solution, upgrading your insulation value would be better.
If you contact a propane supplier they may give you a break on the conversion to get your business. Contact more than one and right now would be good as they likely have time on their hands.
#9
08-01-05, 08:52 AM
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Thanks Greg,
I would like to increase the insulation value, that is a good suggestion.
Actually because it is a trailer and is set fairly high, I have complete access underneath. I have a plan for running pex tubing between the floor joists stapled up to the subfloor. I've done similar projects, but that is for another day.
I would like to increase the insulation value, that is a good suggestion.
Actually because it is a trailer and is set fairly high, I have complete access underneath. I have a plan for running pex tubing between the floor joists stapled up to the subfloor. I've done similar projects, but that is for another day.
#10
08-01-05, 09:09 AM
Super Moderator
Yes, but is there insulation already installed undeneath that you have to remove?
Older mobiles here have a 4" layer of fibreglass underneath with a heavy breathable plastic covering to hold it up.
Newer ones have 6" or more.
Older mobiles here have a 4" layer of fibreglass underneath with a heavy breathable plastic covering to hold it up.
Newer ones have 6" or more.
#11
08-01-05, 09:07 PM
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Yes Greg, there is insulation and the plastic cover, but it is in very bad shape creating a cozy home for the pack rats, if I do that project I will have to remove it. Much of the plastic needs to be replaced anyway, maybe with something even more substantial.
I'm a year away from that project, by then I may have changed my mind.
Take care
I'm a year away from that project, by then I may have changed my mind.
Take care
