Thermostat - Honeywell RTH3100C
#1
10-22-06, 05:52 PM
Thermostat - Honeywell RTH3100C
I am replacing a Trane Baystat with a Honeywell RTH3100C. The old wiring scheme is as follows:
X2 - Black
O - Orange
G - Green
Y - Yellow
T - Tan
R - Red
W - White
U - Empty
F - Empty
Using the installation instructions, I have this for the Honeywell:
E - Black
Aux - White
Y - Yellow
G - Green
O - Orange
L - Empty
R - Red
B - Empty
C - Blue
According to the instrustions, if the old thermostat had both O and B wires, attach the B wire to the C terminal. I have done that.
My question is, where does the Tan (T) wire go? Does it connecet to the L terminal, B terminal or does is just need to be capped off?
Thanks
X2 - Black
O - Orange
G - Green
Y - Yellow
T - Tan
R - Red
W - White
U - Empty
F - Empty
Using the installation instructions, I have this for the Honeywell:
E - Black
Aux - White
Y - Yellow
G - Green
O - Orange
L - Empty
R - Red
B - Empty
C - Blue
According to the instrustions, if the old thermostat had both O and B wires, attach the B wire to the C terminal. I have done that.
My question is, where does the Tan (T) wire go? Does it connecet to the L terminal, B terminal or does is just need to be capped off?
Thanks
#2
10-25-06, 06:35 PM
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Cap it off. T is an outdoor anticipator and is not needed on digital thermostats. It should work fine with what you have already. Just test it out in all modes and you will see.
#3
11-03-06, 02:38 PM
Honeywell RTH3100C thermostat
I did the installation as archtobe did but now I do not have control of the fan. It works okay for heat or "Auto" does not for "On".
What can be done to help.
Bud
What can be done to help.
Bud
#4
11-03-06, 04:47 PM
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Well if you have everything connected properly at the thermostat and everything is connected the same way at the air handler, then you can test and see if your thermostat is bad.
If you pull off the cover to the thermostat and then jump out R and G using a pair of needle nose pliers, a jumper wire, whatever... If the fans comes on and runs then your thermostat is bad.
If your fan does not come on something is miswired and you could be feeding back voltage that brings on the fan when the unit runs in heat or cool. Or it could possibly be jumped out at the air handler.
I would do the jump test to see if the thermostat is bad or not first and let me know.
If you pull off the cover to the thermostat and then jump out R and G using a pair of needle nose pliers, a jumper wire, whatever... If the fans comes on and runs then your thermostat is bad.
If your fan does not come on something is miswired and you could be feeding back voltage that brings on the fan when the unit runs in heat or cool. Or it could possibly be jumped out at the air handler.
I would do the jump test to see if the thermostat is bad or not first and let me know.
#5
11-13-06, 09:49 AM
Thermostat - Honeywell RTH3100C
Thanks Bloodstone but no the fan does not work when jumpered between G & R. The wire coloring checks out okay.
I don't think the addition of an emergency generator to the electrical system for the house has anything to do with the problem except that when the power is lost and the generator comes on the heat pump is automaticly disconnected (power drain , etc.). This should have nothing to do with the internal fan but I wished to let you know of any unusual setup.
Bud
I don't think the addition of an emergency generator to the electrical system for the house has anything to do with the problem except that when the power is lost and the generator comes on the heat pump is automaticly disconnected (power drain , etc.). This should have nothing to do with the internal fan but I wished to let you know of any unusual setup.
Bud
