Is It Time to Replace HP?

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Old 04-01-07, 05:05 PM
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Is It Time to Replace HP?

We bought a 2,500 sq ft. home for future retirement in central NC two years ago. The home was built in 1990 with high end windows and isulation. Temps there range from from the 20's during some winter nights and of course the summers are where the real load comes from. The current unit is a Trane XL 1200, a unit that I've put in previous homes we've owned and I know it to be solid. The AH in the crawl space is really showing its age and looking like it will rust out. A small condensate pump was jury rigged with an extension chord and a very long run to the outside. It is operating fine for the short times we are down there. But that is about to change as my wife is retireing and will be heading down to spend a lot more time and I'm near retirement in a few years myself so we are looking to recapitalize the place while we have the income to get it set for the next 20 years or so. I have a bid on a Trane XLi 14 with a VAH and the clean effects air cleaner for about $7,000 -- 3.5 ton. Will I get reasonable savings over the XL1200? Is this the time to replace a 17 year old heat pump and is the balance provide in the XLi 14 the way to go? We are buying for the long haul here. Oh, they bid only 410a. I read mixed reviews here on this site.
 
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Old 04-01-07, 10:41 PM
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Wink

You say you will be in this home for 10 years are more. So go for the good stuff that will pay you back over the years. Now go for a seer of 15 or better and a V/S blower. This will give you a higher HSPF also. Yes Id stay with the R22 for now it will be made till 2030and be around after that. The R 410a cost to much and if you do have a leak and some still in a unit. Then it all has to be pulled out and all new put in. After the leak is fixed. The XL15i is R22. Also you can get a tax credit for over 15 seer.
Most of the time a unit is good for 15 years is about all . But I have had one AC that was 42 years old when it went.


of course the summers are where the real load comes
Now with the V/S blower you can put a humidistat on it that will slow the blower down so it pulls more humidity out of the air for you then kicks back into high. Also with this unit you can get the 10 year warranty with it.

Crawl space might go to http://aboutsavingheat.com/crawlspace.html

 
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Old 04-02-07, 06:15 AM
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oldnavy

I agree with Ed. I would consider the XL15i HP with matching var spd air handler-its efficiency ratings are a little better. It also qualifies for Trane's current Spring 07 Rebate program. I also suggest you include the Clean Effects or at least a good media filter cabinet like the Perfect Fit, Honeywell, AirBear, etc. The type of refrigerant at this time does not matter-R410 or R22 is OK.

My opinion
Good Luck!

Spring 07 Rebate Program

http://www.trane.com/Residential/Downloads/Trane%20Spring%202007%20Rebate%20final.pdf
 
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Old 04-02-07, 07:01 PM
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I agree with Ed and Tiger But...

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

It the unit is running well and it soungs like it gets little work time why not keep it and put that replacement money in a Cd?

What part of NC are you in? Lots of Geothermal down there. A bit more cost to install but instant energy savings.

Chris
 
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Old 04-03-07, 05:27 PM
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The reason to do it now is while I have the higher income prior to retirement. I'm trying to reset the high end expenses - roof, HVAC, hot water heater - all things 17 years old and coming due. I can wait a year or two on the heat pump if there is a technology change coming.

The house is in the sand hills between Raleigh and Pinehurst. I am unaware of geothermal there.

One other question and this may not be the right section but it comes from a tech who bid the job. He said to use a dehumidifier in the crawl space to avoid mould. I get pretty good sweat of the return ducts under there but have not had a mould problem (yet). Any thoughts on this advice?
 
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Old 04-03-07, 05:50 PM
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Shipmate you may be in luck

I, gettingoldnavyen1, know an oldnavycpt who has extensive knowledge about NC geothermal. It maybe a high end install ($) but as I said instant elec savings.

Your return ducts should not sweat as they carry room temp air. I think you are looking at supply ducts. Check it. May need to replace or insulate these.

Also a geothermal system will also help heat hot water when it's running. More savings.

Meaning he knows his stuff. And he's quite a good guy as you may find out.

Don't spend money until you talk to this man.

Best wishes Sir,

Chris EN1(SW)
 

Last edited by Ed Imeduc; 04-03-07 at 10:49 PM. Reason: No ADD's per say or email ADD
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Old 04-03-07, 10:46 PM
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He said to use a dehumidifier in the crawl space to avoid mould. I get pretty good sweat of the return ducts under there

Did you go to that http://aboutsavingheat.com/crawlspace.html

you need the poly down on the ground and the crawlspace sealed up.we put 2 small registers in the duct and 1 return down there in the crawlspace. Dont use insulation on the duct down there
If you are thinking thermal heat pump . Might look in to the GeoThermal DX. This way the freon lines go into the ground . Not a lot of lines with the water mix in them
 
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