Trane help

Reply

  #1  
Old 04-14-07, 09:41 PM
harveje's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North East Ms.
Posts: 122
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Trane help

I've been having trouble out of my 5 ton '04 xl14i short cycling for a few years. The load calc. called for a 5 ton and that is what they installed. Mid 80 deg. days on 5min. off 5 min. humidity gets in the uper 60%. Dealer argues unit is right and working correctly. Finally a field rep came out and check EVERYTHING, attic, crawlspace, return, windows, drainage, sq. ft...you name it and did not find anything wrong. The rep has talked to the dealer and they decided that they will upgrade me to a xl19i for $2500. I have the vs ah already. Should I have to pay for this? The unit has short cycled since day 1 and the dealer and rep are stomped. I don't mind paying some but darn.... Trane prides themselves on customer satifaction and humidity control.. right? House is 2550 sq ft. mid south area. Any suggestions?
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 04-15-07, 06:12 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Southeast USA
Posts: 1,067
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Harve

Sorry for your trouble.

First of all, you have the classic symptoms of an oversized system.

I have several questions.
Was this a replacement system? If so, what size was your old system?
Tell us a little about your home-windows(number and type), ceiling ht,insulation qualities,layout of home,ductwork system and its overall condition.

I assume from your post a manual J heat/cool load calculation was performed. Do you have a copy and have you reviewed it carefully?

Before I wasted $2500 for a 2 stg XL19i,here is what I would do. I would pay a third party not affiliated with Trane to perform an independent Manual J and get this in writing.It will probably cost you $100-$150. You might contact your electric utility to provide you some resources to have this work done. As a backup, you could do this calculation yourself but a third party would be better. Once you have the calculation, then I would go back to Trane and dealer for a sitdown session and make a close comparison. Just a suspicion but I bet a 4 ton 2 stg would go a long way to improve your problem.

IMO

http://www.hvaccomputer.com
 

Last edited by TigerDunes; 04-15-07 at 07:01 AM.
  #3  
Old 04-15-07, 08:47 AM
harveje's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North East Ms.
Posts: 122
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks,
My thought also on the o/s, but the dealer, rep,tech, calclations, and also a 3rd party said 5 ton actually 4.5. This was a TVA program and everything was installed, checked, and set to their standards. I had a 3 ton gas package but I added on about 1400 sq ft. New duct, new split system. The house has 15 double pane windows, moderate insulation in attic, some walls have no insulation (for now) some air leaks, not many, house runs East/West, good drainage, no standing water, metal roof, ranch style about 2550 sq.ft. 3 kids, 2 adults + 2 extra kids 50% of the time. We do have very humid days and nights. I may offer $1700 if not I will Trane service, I have tried to be nice to the dealer and go throught the chain of command. Thanks again
 
  #4  
Old 04-15-07, 11:47 AM
Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
traneuser

I have installed a XR402 thermostat. My problem is the only thing I can get to display is the heat mode. I cant get the cool or auto settings to appear on the thermostat. Is there any suggestions you could give me at this time?
Thanks,
Traneuser
 
  #5  
Old 04-15-07, 12:29 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Southeast USA
Posts: 1,067
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
traneuser

have you checked your owner's manual?

A copy is available on Trane's website plus Trane has a Trane Stat toll free help line-877-8803381 Monday-Friday 7am to 5:30pm.....


http://www.trane.com/Residential/Products/Thermostats/NonProgrammable.aspx
 
  #6  
Old 04-15-07, 11:30 PM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
Posts: 18,389
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Wink

Anyway You look at it Is for sure to say you are way over on that load there.
I see you say V/S blower there Now Id say they didnt put in the humidistat control there for you on the unit are some of the tstat's will also have it to slow the blower down and be able to pull more humidity out of the home. This will also make the unit run longer. That wire would go back to the blower on BK. On any of the D## tstsat out to day you have to set down and read and read the paper work with them . On how to set them. Then some just dont work right. Id also check out and see if the DIP switches are set right for you blower there. Like said read the paper that came with the unit. In 4 years it should have been fixed
 
  #7  
Old 04-16-07, 06:56 AM
harveje's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North East Ms.
Posts: 122
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I got a Robertshaw T'stat has has the dehumidification control hooked to BK (jumper remove) and the blower set at lowest CFM/ton. Field rep said he has never seen anything like it. The unit cools the air to quick, but does not cool the contents or pulls enough moisture out.
 
  #8  
Old 04-16-07, 02:52 PM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
Posts: 18,389
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Wink

Did you read note #4 ? you have to have the Y to O jumper for proper operation of blower with the humidistat in cooling.
Is the duct work right for 5 ton about 350sq" in and out of the unit. Is the temp drop over the coil about 16o to 18o drop??????
 
  #9  
Old 04-16-07, 08:25 PM
harveje's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North East Ms.
Posts: 122
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Do I jump it at the stat or ah? I have a 24x36 and a 16x20 return grill and 16" round main duct. Not sure above the coil but inlet is 70-71F and at the furthest supply run it is about 54-56F.
 
  #10  
Old 04-16-07, 09:52 PM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
Posts: 18,389
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Wink

16" round main duct. Not sure above the coil but inlet is 70-71F and at the furthest supply run it is about 54-56F. thats only 15o thats not good

Well first that 16" round duct is good for just a 3 ton is all. A 5 ton need about 2000 CFM so you need a supply duct and return of 20" metal or 22" flex pipe.
Look at your paper work it will show you at the air handler for that jumper.

Need the temp drop at the coil. Is the TXV valve ok. They sure the system freon is clean. No contaminate or noncondensables in it at all
 
  #11  
Old 04-19-07, 07:33 PM
harveje's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North East Ms.
Posts: 122
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Ed, My note 4 in the AH does not say that, I did find it in some service pdf's that I found online. Will the jumper affect the heatpump? Will I need to take the wires off of O and then run the jumper to Y? If not when the stat is in cool mode O is always energized thus Y will be also.
 
  #12  
Old 04-20-07, 10:51 PM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
Posts: 18,389
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Wink

Look at the paper work with the air handler. On a TWE-E air handlers single stage cooling You dont put the jumper on
With single stage cool and 2 stage heat you put the jumper from Y to O in the handler
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: