Trane HP AUX Problem
#41
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Yes, previously I had O from tsat directly to HP color orange wire. That is my confusion.
Also, the 2 Y2 connections you mentioned at EIM.
Thanks
Also, the 2 Y2 connections you mentioned at EIM.
Thanks
#42
Ok, I am thinking you had gas when I was talking about O earlier...
Lets start fresh here.
EIM---Air handler----Heat pump
R-------R-------R
R jumper to O at air handler.
O----------------O (no contact at air handler.)
Y1-----Y/Y2-----Y1
Y2------BK------Y2
G--------G
Aux1----W1
Aux2-----W2
W2 jumper to W3-----X2
At air handler, should be no jumper between R and BK
Lets start fresh here.
EIM---Air handler----Heat pump
R-------R-------R
R jumper to O at air handler.
O----------------O (no contact at air handler.)
Y1-----Y/Y2-----Y1
Y2------BK------Y2
G--------G
Aux1----W1
Aux2-----W2
W2 jumper to W3-----X2
At air handler, should be no jumper between R and BK
#44
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Jay,
I assume your O at EIM is labeled W1(O/B HP)? Also, my Blue wire at air handler(B) should just go directly to EIM C? And my R from air handler to EIM R? And AUX1 in your above is actually W2(AUX) on EIM. Also, W3 EIM(AUX2) goes to Black heat pump, correct? Thanks
I assume your O at EIM is labeled W1(O/B HP)? Also, my Blue wire at air handler(B) should just go directly to EIM C? And my R from air handler to EIM R? And AUX1 in your above is actually W2(AUX) on EIM. Also, W3 EIM(AUX2) goes to Black heat pump, correct? Thanks
#45
Correct.
Yes
Yes
Yes.
Also, my Blue wire at air handler(B) should just go directly to EIM C?
And my R from air handler to EIM R?
And AUX1 in your above is actually W2(AUX) on EIM. Also, W3 EIM(AUX2) goes to Black heat pump, correct? Thanks
#47
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Well Jay, I am officially running now. I did hook up G from EIM to G at air handler to G at HP. Everything seems to be running fine. I will keep you posted. Again, thanks for all the help. Take care.
#49
Only thing should be at the Heat Pump.
R-Power
Y-1-First stage Compressor.
Y-2- Second stage compressor.
X2- Defrost comand.
T- Fault Code.
O- Reversing Valve.
And an Optional Temp Sensor if you unit has it.
R-Power
Y-1-First stage Compressor.
Y-2- Second stage compressor.
X2- Defrost comand.
T- Fault Code.
O- Reversing Valve.
And an Optional Temp Sensor if you unit has it.
#50
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Ooops, actually I didn't run 1 G to HP. I got confused by green color code. I only have R,Y1,Y2,X2, and O to HP. Sorry for the scare I only have G from EIM to G at air handler. I must be getting groggy from all this thermostat fun! Thanks again.
#51
Whew!! You had me freaking out, and thinking "crap" he's going to burn something up!
Well, Glad to hear it went well for you, how many ton is your system? For kicks, did you look at the dip switches to see what they were set at?
You don't have to look at it tonight.. I am heading ot bed here soon, since I have to work in the morning.
Glad to help you out tho! :-)
Well, Glad to hear it went well for you, how many ton is your system? For kicks, did you look at the dip switches to see what they were set at?
You don't have to look at it tonight.. I am heading ot bed here soon, since I have to work in the morning.
Glad to help you out tho! :-)
#52
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Jay,
Dip switches set as follows:
1-on
2-off
3-on
4-off
5-on
6-on
7-off
8-off
Also, it looks like I have an additional wire going to HP. B(common), connected from EIM to AH to HP.
Thanks
Dip switches set as follows:
1-on
2-off
3-on
4-off
5-on
6-on
7-off
8-off
Also, it looks like I have an additional wire going to HP. B(common), connected from EIM to AH to HP.
Thanks
#53
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Jay,
Also, option 0176 only shows o,1, or 2, not 3. E shows 2 also. I assume since 0174 is 2, then this should only allow 2 since it would be 3rd and 4th stages, correct? If 0174 was 1, then this would allow 3? Thanks
Also, option 0176 only shows o,1, or 2, not 3. E shows 2 also. I assume since 0174 is 2, then this should only allow 2 since it would be 3rd and 4th stages, correct? If 0174 was 1, then this would allow 3? Thanks
#55
I don't recall where you are out of?
If you are in a very humid area, I'd suggest this set up.
1-off
2-off
3-off
4-on
This is set up for 350 CFM per ton.
5-on
6-on
We are good on this, this is the Comfort-R ramping
7-off
8-off
I can't find info on this.. YOu may have to look on back of the blower door to see what the value it set at.
If you are in a very humid area, I'd suggest this set up.
1-off
2-off
3-off
4-on
This is set up for 350 CFM per ton.
5-on
6-on
We are good on this, this is the Comfort-R ramping
7-off
8-off
I can't find info on this.. YOu may have to look on back of the blower door to see what the value it set at.
#58
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
Posts: 17,505
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote
on
1 Post
Set the fan for the CFM that you feel works best for you there. 400 cfm per ton is for the AC . But again a lot of it is what and how the duct work is put in and works. If you have a humidistat on the unit thats from R to the BK in the air handler this will slow down the blower to pull more humidity out in AC mode.
#60
No, whatever CFM that the heating dipswitches are set at, it will blow that speed in heat.
Being you are in Ohio, you can bump the blower up to 400CFM if humidity isn't an issue, or need more air flow, the all dipswitches to OFF (1-4)
Ed, He has the XL16i, the Y2 is wired to the BK. So he can't' use the humidity control on the IAQ.
Being you are in Ohio, you can bump the blower up to 400CFM if humidity isn't an issue, or need more air flow, the all dipswitches to OFF (1-4)
Ed, He has the XL16i, the Y2 is wired to the BK. So he can't' use the humidity control on the IAQ.
#63
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Question about full time high speed fan
After a few years with the heat pump, I have noticed a few things. The main house (1400 sqft) heats and cools fine, but we have an addition which has a door to it which remains closed all the time. When they installed the system, I ran a 10" round duct from the air handler to the addition (through the attic, insulated with standard slide on insulation as well as house insulation wrapped around the entire duct). I split the 10" duct into an 8" Y. I have what feels like good cfm and there is no heat/cool loss(entire run to the addition is about 50 feet or so).
My problem is the main house thermostat gets satisfied before the addition is satisfied. I considered moving the thermostat into the addition, but though that would make the main house uncomfortable. I do not want to add a 2nd split system for the addition(I do have a window unit to help in the summer, and an air handler with heat strips to help in winter).
I wanted to run the fan on maximum speed 24/7 to circulate the air and even the temps, but I can't figure out how to do this. I fooled with the dip switches but I can't get 100% on FAN-ON, it keeps the variable speed.
Is this possible? Sound reasonable or should I go another route?
Thanks
My problem is the main house thermostat gets satisfied before the addition is satisfied. I considered moving the thermostat into the addition, but though that would make the main house uncomfortable. I do not want to add a 2nd split system for the addition(I do have a window unit to help in the summer, and an air handler with heat strips to help in winter).
I wanted to run the fan on maximum speed 24/7 to circulate the air and even the temps, but I can't figure out how to do this. I fooled with the dip switches but I can't get 100% on FAN-ON, it keeps the variable speed.
Is this possible? Sound reasonable or should I go another route?
Thanks
#67
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Jay,
The return run is much shorter than the supply, probably 10 feet, and it is next to the door near the bottom of the wall. The supplies exit at the ceiling about 10 feet away from the return. I was toying with the idea of swapping the supply and return runs to see what happened, but I can't run vents in the addition, there would only be a single outlet. I will attach the layout shortly.
Thanks
The return run is much shorter than the supply, probably 10 feet, and it is next to the door near the bottom of the wall. The supplies exit at the ceiling about 10 feet away from the return. I was toying with the idea of swapping the supply and return runs to see what happened, but I can't run vents in the addition, there would only be a single outlet. I will attach the layout shortly.
Thanks
#68
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
---------------------------------------------------------|
| | |
| | |
| supp |____________|
| |
| |
| --------------|
| supp | |
| | |
| | |
| |____________|
| |
| |
|______________________________________door___ret_| |
| | |
| | |
| supp |____________|
| |
| |
| --------------|
| supp | |
| | |
| | |
| |____________|
| |
| |
|______________________________________door___ret_| |
#72
Ok, I got your drawing.
How big is the return grill?
I take the supply vents are in the ceiling?
You can't change fan speed by dipswitch settings. I can tell you to rewire the t-sat hook up, What is all wired up on the system on the control board?
How big is the return grill?
I take the supply vents are in the ceiling?
You can't change fan speed by dipswitch settings. I can tell you to rewire the t-sat hook up, What is all wired up on the system on the control board?
#73
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Jay,
I just picked up a grille which fit the opening, probably 12"x12". Is this big enough for a 10" round pipe?
I'll need to check the control board for the connections. It has been quite a while since I hooked everything up. Is there anything common which is done to bypass the variable speed?
Thanks
I just picked up a grille which fit the opening, probably 12"x12". Is this big enough for a 10" round pipe?
I'll need to check the control board for the connections. It has been quite a while since I hooked everything up. Is there anything common which is done to bypass the variable speed?
Thanks
#74
If your return is going down a single 2x5 wall joist, you are not going to get the full volume of air. with the 10", I'd go with the double joist/opening if your return is down near the floor.
Now if your return is in the ceiling, and supply vents are in the ceiling, then you are not going to get any warmer since warm air rise!
I will have to get back to you on how to speed up the blower. I have to search for that info back since it's not a common thing to bump up the fan ON speed on variable speed system.
Now if your return is in the ceiling, and supply vents are in the ceiling, then you are not going to get any warmer since warm air rise!
I will have to get back to you on how to speed up the blower. I have to search for that info back since it's not a common thing to bump up the fan ON speed on variable speed system.
#77
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Jay,
The 10" round duct goes from the basement into a kitchen cabinet. There is a square box in the cabinet which the 10" duct goes into and the box exits the existing brick wall and ends up flush the the addition drywall.
Sounds complicated but basically the 12" round goes all the way to the drywall, and I put a return grill mounted on the drywall.
The 10" round duct goes from the basement into a kitchen cabinet. There is a square box in the cabinet which the 10" duct goes into and the box exits the existing brick wall and ends up flush the the addition drywall.
Sounds complicated but basically the 12" round goes all the way to the drywall, and I put a return grill mounted on the drywall.
#79
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I have been reading all the posts and I am waiting for your follow up on the "blower speed increase".
#80
I've looked everywhere, and I can't find the chart.
If I recall, You "bypass" the Y wire from the furnace.
T-stat Y goes right to the A/C.
Then you add a jumper wire from G to Y.
If I recall, You "bypass" the Y wire from the furnace.
T-stat Y goes right to the A/C.
Then you add a jumper wire from G to Y.