Trane HP AUX Problem


  #41  
Old 02-15-08, 05:37 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yes, previously I had O from tsat directly to HP color orange wire. That is my confusion.

Also, the 2 Y2 connections you mentioned at EIM.

Thanks
 
  #42  
Old 02-15-08, 01:33 PM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Ok, I am thinking you had gas when I was talking about O earlier...

Lets start fresh here.

EIM---Air handler----Heat pump

R-------R-------R

R jumper to O at air handler.

O----------------O (no contact at air handler.)

Y1-----Y/Y2-----Y1

Y2------BK------Y2

G--------G

Aux1----W1

Aux2-----W2

W2 jumper to W3-----X2

At air handler, should be no jumper between R and BK
 
  #43  
Old 02-15-08, 01:41 PM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
And here is the photo how I got mine installed.

 
  #44  
Old 02-15-08, 04:32 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Jay,
I assume your O at EIM is labeled W1(O/B HP)? Also, my Blue wire at air handler(B) should just go directly to EIM C? And my R from air handler to EIM R? And AUX1 in your above is actually W2(AUX) on EIM. Also, W3 EIM(AUX2) goes to Black heat pump, correct? Thanks
 
  #45  
Old 02-15-08, 04:49 PM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by homermandy
Jay,
I assume your O at EIM is labeled W1(O/B HP)?
Correct.

Also, my Blue wire at air handler(B) should just go directly to EIM C?
Yes

And my R from air handler to EIM R?
Yes

And AUX1 in your above is actually W2(AUX) on EIM. Also, W3 EIM(AUX2) goes to Black heat pump, correct? Thanks
Yes.
 
  #46  
Old 02-15-08, 05:16 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Jay, Thanks, I am finishing up in a few. Also, does G from EIM go to G at air handler AND ALSO to G at HP?
 
  #47  
Old 02-15-08, 07:25 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Well Jay, I am officially running now. I did hook up G from EIM to G at air handler to G at HP. Everything seems to be running fine. I will keep you posted. Again, thanks for all the help. Take care.
 
  #48  
Old 02-15-08, 07:37 PM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Umm... Better find out where that G wire goes to at the heat pump... There shouldn't be one!
 
  #49  
Old 02-15-08, 07:41 PM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Only thing should be at the Heat Pump.

R-Power

Y-1-First stage Compressor.

Y-2- Second stage compressor.

X2- Defrost comand.

T- Fault Code.

O- Reversing Valve.

And an Optional Temp Sensor if you unit has it.
 
  #50  
Old 02-15-08, 07:54 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Ooops, actually I didn't run 1 G to HP. I got confused by green color code. I only have R,Y1,Y2,X2, and O to HP. Sorry for the scare I only have G from EIM to G at air handler. I must be getting groggy from all this thermostat fun! Thanks again.
 
  #51  
Old 02-15-08, 07:58 PM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Whew!! You had me freaking out, and thinking "crap" he's going to burn something up!

Well, Glad to hear it went well for you, how many ton is your system? For kicks, did you look at the dip switches to see what they were set at?

You don't have to look at it tonight.. I am heading ot bed here soon, since I have to work in the morning.

Glad to help you out tho! :-)
 
  #52  
Old 02-16-08, 06:17 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Jay,
Dip switches set as follows:

1-on
2-off
3-on
4-off
5-on
6-on
7-off
8-off

Also, it looks like I have an additional wire going to HP. B(common), connected from EIM to AH to HP.

Thanks
 
  #53  
Old 02-16-08, 06:27 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Jay,
Also, option 0176 only shows o,1, or 2, not 3. E shows 2 also. I assume since 0174 is 2, then this should only allow 2 since it would be 3rd and 4th stages, correct? If 0174 was 1, then this would allow 3? Thanks
 
  #54  
Old 02-16-08, 06:35 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Forgot to mention, it is a 3 ton unit for a 2000sq ft ranch.
 
  #55  
Old 02-16-08, 10:29 AM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I don't recall where you are out of?

If you are in a very humid area, I'd suggest this set up.

1-off
2-off
3-off
4-on
This is set up for 350 CFM per ton.

5-on
6-on
We are good on this, this is the Comfort-R ramping

7-off
8-off
I can't find info on this.. YOu may have to look on back of the blower door to see what the value it set at.
 
  #56  
Old 02-16-08, 10:30 AM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by homermandy
Jay,
Also, option 0176 only shows o,1, or 2, not 3. E shows 2 also. I assume since 0174 is 2, then this should only allow 2 since it would be 3rd and 4th stages, correct?
Yes

Only time 3 will show if you has 3 stage gas heat.
 
  #57  
Old 02-16-08, 12:31 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I am in Ohio. Is my setup for maximum CFM?
 
  #58  
Old 02-16-08, 12:50 PM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
Posts: 17,505
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Wink

Set the fan for the CFM that you feel works best for you there. 400 cfm per ton is for the AC . But again a lot of it is what and how the duct work is put in and works. If you have a humidistat on the unit thats from R to the BK in the air handler this will slow down the blower to pull more humidity out in AC mode.
 
  #59  
Old 02-16-08, 05:02 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I'll check the dips for 7/8 tomorrow. I assume the IAQ will ramp my 10/15K AUX if 5K can't keep up?
 
  #60  
Old 02-16-08, 07:18 PM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by homermandy
I assume the IAQ will ramp my 10/15K AUX if 5K can't keep up?
No, whatever CFM that the heating dipswitches are set at, it will blow that speed in heat.

Being you are in Ohio, you can bump the blower up to 400CFM if humidity isn't an issue, or need more air flow, the all dipswitches to OFF (1-4)

Originally Posted by Ed Imeduc
If you have a humidistat on the unit thats from R to the BK in the air handler this will slow down the blower to pull more humidity out in AC mode.
Ed, He has the XL16i, the Y2 is wired to the BK. So he can't' use the humidity control on the IAQ.
 
  #61  
Old 02-17-08, 06:28 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
When I said ramp up, I meant if the HP can't keep up on AUX1, it will add AUX2?
 
  #62  
Old 02-17-08, 04:04 PM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yes, if AUX1 can't keep up the stat will stage into AUX2 as needed.
 
  #63  
Old 12-15-09, 05:15 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Question about full time high speed fan

After a few years with the heat pump, I have noticed a few things. The main house (1400 sqft) heats and cools fine, but we have an addition which has a door to it which remains closed all the time. When they installed the system, I ran a 10" round duct from the air handler to the addition (through the attic, insulated with standard slide on insulation as well as house insulation wrapped around the entire duct). I split the 10" duct into an 8" Y. I have what feels like good cfm and there is no heat/cool loss(entire run to the addition is about 50 feet or so).

My problem is the main house thermostat gets satisfied before the addition is satisfied. I considered moving the thermostat into the addition, but though that would make the main house uncomfortable. I do not want to add a 2nd split system for the addition(I do have a window unit to help in the summer, and an air handler with heat strips to help in winter).

I wanted to run the fan on maximum speed 24/7 to circulate the air and even the temps, but I can't figure out how to do this. I fooled with the dip switches but I can't get 100% on FAN-ON, it keeps the variable speed.

Is this possible? Sound reasonable or should I go another route?

Thanks
 
  #64  
Old 12-15-09, 05:42 AM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Is there a return in this room? Since this area's door is closed all the time as you said, the air needs to get otu somewhere.
 
  #65  
Old 12-15-09, 06:08 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yes, there is a return of 10" round pipe from the room. There is also a 2" gap beneath the door....
 
  #66  
Old 12-15-09, 07:33 AM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Where is this return placed?
 
  #67  
Old 12-15-09, 07:58 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Jay,

The return run is much shorter than the supply, probably 10 feet, and it is next to the door near the bottom of the wall. The supplies exit at the ceiling about 10 feet away from the return. I was toying with the idea of swapping the supply and return runs to see what happened, but I can't run vents in the addition, there would only be a single outlet. I will attach the layout shortly.

Thanks
 
  #68  
Old 12-15-09, 10:02 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
---------------------------------------------------------|
| | |
| | |
| supp |____________|
| |
| |
| --------------|
| supp | |
| | |
| | |
| |____________|
| |
| |
|______________________________________door___ret_| |
 
  #69  
Old 12-15-09, 10:50 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Well that did not turn out right. I can't seem to insert a file. I have a good powerpoint file. Basically the return is next to the door entering the addition.
 
  #70  
Old 12-15-09, 08:32 PM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
The file needs to be uploaded onto a host site, other wise, you can try sending it to me.

jaymarking at gmail dot com (no space)
 
  #71  
Old 12-16-09, 06:35 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Jay, I emailed you the layout.

Thanks
 
  #72  
Old 12-16-09, 05:21 PM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Ok, I got your drawing.

How big is the return grill?

I take the supply vents are in the ceiling?

You can't change fan speed by dipswitch settings. I can tell you to rewire the t-sat hook up, What is all wired up on the system on the control board?
 
  #73  
Old 12-18-09, 05:30 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Jay,

I just picked up a grille which fit the opening, probably 12"x12". Is this big enough for a 10" round pipe?

I'll need to check the control board for the connections. It has been quite a while since I hooked everything up. Is there anything common which is done to bypass the variable speed?

Thanks
 
  #74  
Old 12-18-09, 08:27 AM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
If your return is going down a single 2x5 wall joist, you are not going to get the full volume of air. with the 10", I'd go with the double joist/opening if your return is down near the floor.

Now if your return is in the ceiling, and supply vents are in the ceiling, then you are not going to get any warmer since warm air rise!

I will have to get back to you on how to speed up the blower. I have to search for that info back since it's not a common thing to bump up the fan ON speed on variable speed system.
 
  #75  
Old 12-18-09, 12:31 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Jay,

The 10"round pipe is going through a kitchen cabinet to the basement, so I have the full 10" all the way to the family room.
 
  #76  
Old 12-19-09, 05:31 AM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
So, is this vent drawin out of the floor or the walls? (Vent placement)
 
  #77  
Old 12-21-09, 05:55 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Jay,

The 10" round duct goes from the basement into a kitchen cabinet. There is a square box in the cabinet which the 10" duct goes into and the box exits the existing brick wall and ends up flush the the addition drywall.

Sounds complicated but basically the 12" round goes all the way to the drywall, and I put a return grill mounted on the drywall.
 
  #78  
Old 12-21-09, 07:35 PM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Ok, sounds good.

Sorry, I haven't had a chance to find that wire hook up to get the blower up to speed. been busy getting ready for Christmas.
 
  #79  
Old 01-05-10, 01:25 PM
L
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Jay11J
Ok, sounds good.

Sorry, I haven't had a chance to find that wire hook up to get the blower up to speed. been busy getting ready for Christmas.
I have been reading all the posts and I am waiting for your follow up on the "blower speed increase".
 
  #80  
Old 01-07-10, 11:17 AM
Jay11J's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 16,984
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I've looked everywhere, and I can't find the chart.

If I recall, You "bypass" the Y wire from the furnace.

T-stat Y goes right to the A/C.

Then you add a jumper wire from G to Y.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: