New Trane XV95 + XL16i Heat Pump Installed. Setup correctly???

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Old 02-11-11, 07:54 AM
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New Trane XV95 + XL16i Heat Pump Installed. Setup correctly???

Hello everyone!

I just had this system installed last weekend and have had a nice and toasty home, however, not sure if the installers set this up correctly. After the initial install the system seemed to run non stop, well it would stop for 30 seconds to 3 minutes at a time and then would kick right back on... (Single temp digits BTW here in Michigan) but just seemed weird even though it held temp. My 20 year old furnace would take a break for about 20-30 minutes before kicking back on. I had the installers come back out but they said it was just because it's a two stage system and it wasn't the actual heat kicking on.

I still didn't feel too comfortable with the constant kicking on and off so they sent out another tech a few days later, this tech stated that it was wired wrong by the first techs, he said that they wired it off of the heat pumps directions but they should have wired it off of the thermostats wiring diag. Well, the heat does't seem to cycle as frequent as it did before so I assume that's good, but after having these guys out a few times I'm a little scepticle and was hoping someone could verify these configs. Below are pics of the furnace and thermostats wiring and the configs of the thermostat.

Thermostat Model# TCONT800 Series
Thermo settings:
0120 - 20
0130 - 11
0140 - 2
0150 - 11
0160 - 4
0170 - 12
0200 - 1
0210 - 0
0220 - 3
0230 - 3
0260 - 5
0280 - 0
0300 - 0
0320 - 0
0330 - 2
0340 - 2
0350 - 25
0500 - 6
0510 - 0
0530 - 1
0540 - 4
0580 - 5
0600 - 90
0610 - 50
0640 - 12
0650 - 0
0660 - 0
0670 - 0
0680 - 2
0690 - 2
0700 - 0
0710 - 0

Wiring Pics:








Thanks Everyone!!
 
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Old 02-11-11, 12:28 PM
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If you ever have an installer looking at the wiring diagram or directions on the tstat.....be scared. Just kidding but seriously everything seems fine. Complicated system you've got yourself and practically useless to have heat pump in northern states but i guess you couldnt do gas i assume.
 
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Old 02-11-11, 03:08 PM
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Thanks for looking this over, I appreciate it! The salesman stated that the heat pump would be more efficient in the mild temps of the spring and fall over just using a gas furnace (XV95). The more I read about this heat pump stuff though the more I feel I got taken by the sales guy; it was another $500 more for the heat pump option. There goes my tax credit savings!
*Live in Michigan BTW*
 
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Old 02-11-11, 04:14 PM
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No, it's not wired up right.....

At the t-stat, what's on W? Black and white??

At the furnace, W1 and W2 jumpered??

I would of gone with the Honeywell IAQ stat than this one to get a TRUE two stage use on your furnace.
 
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Old 02-11-11, 04:22 PM
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It should be wired as seen on page 8, FIG 15

A few minor changes in setting.

0160 - 0 (HP system, I'd suggest set it and forget it.)
0220 - 2
0260 - 3
0280 - 1 (Makes a great night light)
0350 - 20 (If the HP can still keep up and cycles off, can go lower)
0500 - 6 (What kind of filter do you have?)

What is the dip switch settings on the furnace set to?
 
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Old 02-11-11, 07:53 PM
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Heatpump will be fine in northern states! 10 years ago I'd agree but now days they work great! I'd guess you will save that 500 back in about three years
 
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Old 02-11-11, 08:30 PM
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My parents has a HP here in Minnesota, and works out just fine for them.. The HP can't keep up lower than 15˚, and mom said they have seen a huge saving so far on it!
 
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Old 02-12-11, 06:15 AM
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HP will be very good for you in northern states, the old inefficient models were not great up here in the north. With the new efficiencies they are wonderful and can save you a lot on gas bills. I have similar setup in my home and have mine setup to switch over at 25 degrees outdoor temp. If you have never had a heat pump before then I recommend no lower than 35 degree balance point because you will not be happy with the cool temps that come from your registers, but to save money you can lower the balance point. Just understand that with a lower balance point it will put out cooler air, but will still be heating your home. This also depends on how old your home is and how well insulated it is.
 
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Old 02-12-11, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
No, it's not wired up right.....

At the t-stat, what's on W? Black and white??

At the furnace, W1 and W2 jumpered??

I would of gone with the Honeywell IAQ stat than this one to get a TRUE two stage use on your furnace.
Thanks!
Yes it looks like Black and white are on W


W1 and 2 do not appear to be jumpered


The stat I'm using now they just installed with the system, wasn't given a choice other than them telling me that this stat was for 2 stage systems and a heat pump.
 
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Old 02-12-11, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
It should be wired as seen on page 8, FIG 15

A few minor changes in setting.

0160 - 0 (HP system, I'd suggest set it and forget it.)
0220 - 2
0260 - 3
0280 - 1 (Makes a great night light)
0350 - 20 (If the HP can still keep up and cycles off, can go lower)
0500 - 6 (What kind of filter do you have?)

What is the dip switch settings on the furnace set to?
Thanks for the correct settings, about to make the changes now on the tstat. My wiring looks nothing like whats in the link you sent to me... I'm worried why they are so different.
As for the dip switches -


and I have the 5in Aprilaire installed
 
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Old 02-12-11, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by hvactechfw View Post
HP will be very good for you in northern states, the old inefficient models were not great up here in the north. With the new efficiencies they are wonderful and can save you a lot on gas bills. I have similar setup in my home and have mine setup to switch over at 25 degrees outdoor temp. If you have never had a heat pump before then I recommend no lower than 35 degree balance point because you will not be happy with the cool temps that come from your registers, but to save money you can lower the balance point. Just understand that with a lower balance point it will put out cooler air, but will still be heating your home. This also depends on how old your home is and how well insulated it is.
Thanks again guys. Yeah my wifes been stressing about the HP option we went with because we have read a lot of conflicting things on the internet and the reason we went with the option was to lower our utils as much as possible as they are insainly high.
 
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Old 02-12-11, 06:38 AM
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*another quick note*

before the 3rd tech came out and made wiring changes as well as tstat changes I noticed before I had two options for the heat pump on the tstat,

(0350)Heat Pump Compressor Lockout: And was set to 25
And
(0360)Heat Pump Auxiliary Lockout: Was set to 40

Now I only have the one option (0350) and is still set to 25

 
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Old 02-12-11, 06:50 AM
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for energy savings leave it set to 25 for comfort set to 35 for option (350)

I'm not sure why you lost aux lockout. I don't use the 8000 stat only the IAQ which is close, but not the exact same for setup options.
 
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Old 02-12-11, 08:26 AM
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The way it's wired at the furnace right now, it running the 1st stage at 50% speed, not 80% to match the compressor you have. That is a very common mistake on the XL16. So, it needs to fixed before it gets too warm out.

The 800 does not lock out the Aux on gas system, only on electric, where the IAQ can lock out the gas.

What is the full model # on your furnace, and outside unit?
 
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Old 02-12-11, 08:48 AM
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If you blow the picture up of the connections at the thermostat it looks like the black wire on the W terminal with the white wire is a jumper. It looks like the other end of that black jumper is pushed back towards the wall not hooked to anything. It should have been removed. You have had two different techs out from this company and it's still not wired or set up right. Setting up this system is obviously above their heads. You will never see the savings and comfort this system can provide unless it is installed and set up exactly as it was designed to be. On top of that they have the filter reminder on the thermostat set for 365 run time days. That time is calculated only when the fan is actually running which works out to around 3 actual years. That filter should be serviced at least every 6 months. So 500 in the thermostat setup should have been set to 3, 60 days runtime or about 6 months.

IMO you have a botched install. I would call TRANE customer service and tell them you have a new system and you want them to send out a qualified TRANE tech to come out and set it up correctly. You have spent all this money on state of the art equipment but will never see the cost savings benefit of it or get the life expectancy out of it unless it is set up right. Have the qualified TRANE tech check the entire installation including refrigerant charge.
 
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Old 02-12-11, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
The way it's wired at the furnace right now, it running the 1st stage at 50% speed, not 80% to match the compressor you have. That is a very common mistake on the XL16. So, it needs to fixed before it gets too warm out.

The 800 does not lock out the Aux on gas system, only on electric, where the IAQ can lock out the gas.

What is the full model # on your furnace, and outside unit?
The model number they wrote in the paperwork for the furnace says XV95080 (Not sure where the model# is located on the furnace) and the Heat pump they just put XL 16i 3-ton and case coil 3-ton
Here is a pic of manuals + Outside Heat Pump

Mans:




Outside Heat Pump:


 
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Old 02-12-11, 09:36 AM
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Believe this is the furnace Model# TUH2B080
 
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Old 02-12-11, 08:27 PM
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It looks like one switch needs to be set. #1 needs to be set ON.

Middle of the board dipswitch "A" DS1-ON DS2-ON

Looks like the heating blower is set a notch slower, hope the temp rise are with in range.

And you saw the wire hook up in the t-stat manual.

I'll post it here again.

T-stat----------------Fur--------------HP
R/Rc---red-----------R----red--------R
O-------orange---------------------O (bypass the furnace)
Y-------yellow-------Y----yellow----Y1
G-------green--------G
B-------blue---------B/C-----blue----B
W1----white--------W1*-----black---BK
X2-----black--------W2*
Y2-----brown-------BK------brown----Y2
Jumper between R and O

*= Jumper between these two.

For the Air filter, I'd suggest changing it twice a year. I change mine before cooling season starts, and start of heating season. Also, in heating season, run the fan "ON" mode for better comfort.
 
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Old 02-13-11, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
It looks like one switch needs to be set. #1 needs to be set ON.

Middle of the board dipswitch "A" DS1-ON DS2-ON

Looks like the heating blower is set a notch slower, hope the temp rise are with in range.

And you saw the wire hook up in the t-stat manual.

I'll post it here again.

T-stat----------------Fur--------------HP
R/Rc---red-----------R----red--------R
O-------orange---------------------O (bypass the furnace)
Y-------yellow-------Y----yellow----Y1
G-------green--------G
B-------blue---------B/C-----blue----B
W1----white--------W1*-----black---BK
X2-----black--------W2*
Y2-----brown-------BK------brown----Y2
Jumper between R and O

*= Jumper between these two.

For the Air filter, I'd suggest changing it twice a year. I change mine before cooling season starts, and start of heating season. Also, in heating season, run the fan "ON" mode for better comfort.
Thanks!
And sorry, I didn't see the other dip switches on the middle of the board until you mentioned them.
Here is a pic:
The top two are set to OFF and the bottom two are set to ON.
Should I reverse it, top two on and bottom two off or just move the top two to ON like you suggested and just leave the bottom two alone and set to ON as well?
 
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Old 02-13-11, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by mkalbarc View Post
The top two are set to OFF and the bottom two are set to ON.
Should I reverse it, top two on and bottom two off or just move the top two to ON like you suggested and just leave the bottom two alone and set to ON as well?
To protect your warranty you need to have someone from TRANE set up your system and make any changes that need to be made. You paid for the installation. It is TRANE,s responsibility to make sure that installation is correct. IMO it is irresponsible for anyone from this board to encourage a homeowner to modify any settings/wiring etc on a brand new system covered by a warranty. You asked if your system was set up right. The answer was no. That should prompt you to contact TRANE to rectify the issue.
 
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Old 02-13-11, 09:05 AM
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To protect your warranty you need to have someone from TRANE set up your system and make any changes that need to be made. You paid for the installation. It is TRANE,s responsibility to make sure that installation is correct. IMO it is irresponsible for anyone from this board to encourage a homeowner to modify any settings/wiring etc on a brand new system covered by a warranty. You asked if your system was set up right. The answer was no. That should prompt you to contact TRANE to rectify the issue.
IT IS NOT TRANE WHO SOLD AND SETUP YOUR SYSTEM. It is the responsibility of the installing contractor to set the system up. Trane is in no way shape or form the responsible party. You should have received copies of your install manual with the new system. Reading through these you can note the differences between how things were set and how they should have been setup following the installation manual. Then contact your CONTRACTOR, NOT TRANE!
 

Last edited by hvactechfw; 02-13-11 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 02-13-11, 09:09 AM
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I agree, and I will be having them come back out, but knowledge is power. Because of the help I am getting from fellow members I will not be so stupid to trust these slacky installers again... I mean 3 attempts and it still isn't setup right? Where do they get these guys anyway? With the help I have received I will now personally watch the tech make all changes and just be that annoying customer that no tech wants to deal with watching over their shoulder the whole time asking questions. I try to be respectful when techs come to my house to do whatever because I know what it's like to have a customer nag and hover, but these guys have proved that they need me there with them

Thanks again everyone for all the help!!! I will let you know how the follow up goes as I will be contacting them tomorrow morning.
 
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Old 02-13-11, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by hvactechfw View Post
IT IS NOT TRANE WHO SOLD AND SETUP YOUR SYSTEM. It is the responsibility of the installing contractor to set the system up. Trane is in no way shape or form the responsible party. You should have received copies of your install manual with the new system. Reading through these you can note the differences between how things were set and how they should have been setup following the installation manual. Then contact your CONTRACTOR, NOT TRANE!
I will be contacting the installers on this, not Trane, I know this. Thanks again everyone for all the help AND info!
 
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Old 02-13-11, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by hvactechfw View Post
IT IS NOT TRANE WHO SOLD AND SETUP YOUR SYSTEM. It is the responsibility of the installing contractor to set the system up. Trane is in no way shape or form the responsible party. You should have received copies of your install manual with the new system. Reading through these you can note the differences between how things were set and how they should have been setup following the installation manual. Then contact your CONTRACTOR, NOT TRANE!
He has had the installers out twice and it still isn't right. Why keep calling them to come out? They don't have a clue. The installers are supposed to be TRANE certified techs. Which means they should know how to correctly install and setup any TRANE system they sell. They botched the install. And after two different techs sent out to fix it it still isn't right. Who knows what else they botched on the install aside from the wiring and dip switch issue. The homeowner spent multi thousands of dollars for new equipment and a professional installation. He hasn't received what he paid for. If the dealer/installer can't fulfil TRANE's end of the contract it's TRANE's responsibility to send out someone else who can.
 
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Old 02-13-11, 10:00 AM
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AGAIN IT IS IN NO WAY TRANE'S PROBLEM! TRANE MAKES THE SYSTEM, DOESN'T INSTALL THEM, DOESN'T SET THEM UP. The homeowner is going to get no help from trane other than to get the name of another local contractor who has nothing invested in the system and therefore will charge for services rendered. NO, the OP should not have to be going through this, but it is who they thought they could trust and therefore are stuck dealing with that contractor or paying someone else to do it correctly. TRANE HAS NO CONTRACT THAT EVERYTHING IS GOING TO BE INSTALLED PROPERLY OR HEAT OR COOL ACCORDINGLY AS THERE ARE TOO MANY VARIABLES THAT COME INTO PLAY SUCH AS HEAT LOAD CALCULATIONS AND OTHER THINGS THAT THE CONTRACTOR SHOULD HAVE DONE.

NOT TRANE'S PROBLEM UNLESS IT WERE FAULTY EQUIPMENT.
 

Last edited by hvactechfw; 02-13-11 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 02-13-11, 10:23 AM
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It is TRANE'S problem when their "licensed", "qualified" independent Trane dealer doesn't know how to setup a system correctly. One call to TRANE and the area rep will make sure all the installation issues are resolved at no cost to the homeowner. If this system had been installed by someone other than a "licensed", "qualified" independent Trane dealer then you would be right.
 
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Old 02-13-11, 11:36 AM
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maybe you missed the INDEPENDENT part of what you said. Licensing comes from the local municipality, not Trane. The contractor chooses who they hire and need to keep their end of the deal up by coming back at no charge until it is done right. It should have been done right from the start, however it wasn't but now they are responsible to fix it. This is now off subject and will be my last post on this thread concerning who is responsible and should be yours (Jeggs) as well.
 
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Old 02-14-11, 01:46 PM
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Well they sent another tech out and I mentioned pretty much everything I learned here to him and for the most part he agreed. He did mention something about not being able to change the HP setting to run at 80%, something about it automatically doing that?(I may have misunderstood what he was trying to tell me a little though) But he put in a call to trane tech support to see if it can be manually changed. Here are pics of the new wiring and dip switch settings.







 
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Old 02-14-11, 05:58 PM
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The BK wired up will run it 80%.

I can't really tell in the photo..

Is there a jumper between W1 and W2?

or

Is the black wire from the HP outside on W2?
 
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Old 02-15-11, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
The BK wired up will run it 80%.

I can't really tell in the photo..

Is there a jumper between W1 and W2?

or

Is the black wire from the HP outside on W2?
W1 is going to HP outside, W2 to TStat

No jumper on W1 + W2 only between R+O
 
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Old 02-15-11, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by mkalbarc View Post
W1 is going to HP outside, W2 to TStat

No jumper on W1 + W2 only between R+O
W2 and W1 at the furnace needs a jumper.
 
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Old 02-15-11, 12:13 PM
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W1 and w2 now jumped. Thanks again for all your help!!!!!
 
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Old 02-15-11, 08:12 PM
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Glad to help.

Have a great week.
 
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Old 02-21-11, 10:07 AM
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*UPDATE*

Well we had our fisrt scare last night with the new HeatPump. I was in the kitchen getting a drink and noticed a very loud buzzing/humming noise coming from the back yard, opened the doorwall and the noise was coming from the HP. It did it again today and I managed to get a vid. It is very loud. It sounds like an electric air compressor, but it does seem to get a little quieter after a minute or two. I noticed it again today when I was in the upstairs bathroom, I opened the window and there it was again, buzzing away. I did read somewhere that it was probably the defrost cycle but this is the first time since we've had it that it has done this. We did call the installers and they came to look at it today and ofcourse it didnt buzz for them, but they also said it was probably just defrosting. Normal?

[IMG][/IMG]
 
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Old 02-21-11, 11:12 AM
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Yes. That is a defrost cycle. Perfectly normal.
 
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Old 02-21-11, 01:22 PM
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hard to say from your video, was the fan on the unit outdoor running? If not, then yes defrost cycle.... The installers can force the unit into defrost to verify the sound with you, unsure why they did not do this......
 
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Old 02-21-11, 02:44 PM
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This is normal, the unit goes into defrost, and the fan does not run.
 
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Old 02-22-11, 11:08 AM
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thank you for the quick replies everyone!!!
 
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