Goodman Air Handler (Carrier Heat Pump) - Blower


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Old 03-25-13, 05:43 PM
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Goodman Air Handler (Carrier Heat Pump) - Blower

Having trouble with the stop/stop on my blower motor. Here's what I know and have done:

July 2009 had the blower motor changed to cure a start-up problem ($450). The guys came several times to diagnosis and repair an intermittent problem. The new motor didn't fix the problem so I switched the thermostat to ON for three years with no problems. Thought of it as a full-time air filter.

The air handler is under the house and a pain to get to but I went under last year to flush the drain and noticed that the capacitor was very old and corroded so I guessed that maybe they didn't replace it with the motor - hard to believe but it looked old.

As I said three years no problems until this past weekend I get no blow and a loud hum. I figure there had been a power outage and the motor wouldn't restart so I replace the the capacitor ($18). Crawl out and hit the breaker and she cranks up like she should. I'm a genius.

Thirty minutes later the blower cuts out and the heat pump runs on. I know that's not right, so I switch the thermostat to Fan On. No go. All day off/on - sometimes correctly and some times not. No pattern but maybe the fan is louder than before.

I install a new digital thermostat ($25) hoping to get out cheap but nothing different. Install clean filters - seems to be getting good air flow.

Internet search leads me to next probable cause - BLOWER TIME DELAY RELAY.

Any ideas will be appreciated.
 
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Old 03-26-13, 05:23 AM
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did you check the fan voltage to the air handler and contacts at the air handler and thermostat ?
 
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Old 03-26-13, 12:27 PM
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No wonder it's not working

Crawled back under today for a closer look. I had planned to pull the motor and study the wiring and found these wires fried. (see photo below)

The two top wire go to two of the three heating elements. The black wire was burned through. The white goes to the fan. It had melted through the insulation and was in contact with the red.

I also found that motor has a lot of slop side-to-side, so I guess it is the problem.

Questions:

1) I figure that when the motor stopped the heating elements overheated. Does this make any sense?

2) Shouldn't this have tripped the breaker?

3) Is it worthwhile to replace the wires and motor or is more damage likely?

4) What gauge is the wire?

Thanks.
 
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Last edited by hankster222; 03-26-13 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 03-26-13, 05:26 PM
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a dead short would trip the breaker, but arcing may not trip the breaker. Best thing to do is to cut out the damaged wire and crimp on new terminals.
 
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Old 03-27-13, 09:50 AM
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If this were mine, I would replace the circuit breakers as well. Concerned about the terminals as they are green, corroded, looks like water has been running on it, makes for bad contact.

My son had a similar problem, his were burned about 18" up from the circuit breaker on a 1 year old house, luckily there was enough slack to cut it back and reconnect to new breakers. Also put some of that "connection grease???" on the new connections. My theory was it was not a tight connection to begin with.??
 
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Old 03-29-13, 07:09 AM
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Making Headway

Replaced Blower Motor and two burnt heat strip wires - Motor runs all of the time.

Then replaced two relays - Time Delay Relay & Sequencer.

Fan now responds to thermostat correctly with delays in AUTO and continuously in FAN ON. Compressor runs in COOL mode only. Seems that AUX HEAT is on in HEAT mode but not response from compressor.

So i'm thinking it must be something with the Reversing Valve signal (orange wire).

Any suggestions on how best to troubleshoot this will be appreciated.
 
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Old 03-29-13, 09:58 AM
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I install a new digital thermostat ($25) hoping to get out cheap but nothing different.
It is very unlikely that a $25 stat will properly control a heat pump.
Post the make and model of your stat.
 
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Old 03-29-13, 11:15 AM
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Went back to the original

My most recent post are using the original (simple) RiteTemp 6010 that had worked well in the past.

http://www.ritetemp-thermostats.com/...tion_guide.pdf

The $25 unit was a Hunter 44132 and it will go back to Lowes. The HP acted the same with both.
 
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Old 03-29-13, 03:04 PM
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O is required to cool but not to heat.
Place a jumper wire between Y and W and verify that the small stat jumper is set for electric heat.
 
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Old 03-29-13, 04:39 PM
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I have a jumper between Y and W.

The stat jumper is set to ELECT.
 
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Old 03-29-13, 11:59 PM
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I'd double check those jumpers.
The outdoor unit is not getting 24VAC to the "Y" wire in heat mode.

Do you have a meter?
 
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Old 04-01-13, 06:15 AM
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I did go back and check the jumpers - they were correct. I double checked against a photo I took before I started.

I didn't even try to start it for 48 hours because I was tired of dealing with it. Turned it on today and every mode works correctly (fan/fan delays/heat/cool). I have no idea what changed - maybe I was resetting the start delay when I was testing but I thought I was giving it enough time.

Thanks for the input. Planning on replacing the whole system before next winter with natural gas and ending my Heat Pump experience for this lifetime.
 
 

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