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Weathertron Bay28x139 to Honeywell TH6220D1002 Thermostat connections question..

Weathertron Bay28x139 to Honeywell TH6220D1002 Thermostat connections question..

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  #1  
Old 07-28-13, 04:31 PM
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Weathertron Bay28x139 to Honeywell TH6220D1002 Thermostat connections question..

So, I'm replacing the thermostat on my heat pump (1.5Ton? unit in a small 3BD TH). It turns out I bought one that can handle two systems, which I don't need, but I decided to install it anyway.

I made the connections below based on the manual and some answers I found here on the site, but it doesn't seem as if the system isn't cooling. It lights up, lets me program time, temperature, fan blows, but I don't feel the air coming out of the vents getting any cooler.

I had some doubts as to the old T (brown) and W+U (white) connections, and ended up taping them both off (not using them), so I'm sure the problem is there.

Here's what I did:

Old = Weathertron Bay28x139
New = Honeywell TH6220D1002

Old--------------New
Red-------------R/RC
T (Brown)------taped off
O----------------Orange
G----------------Green
Y----------------Yellow
X2 (black)------E/Aux
B-----------------C
W+U------------Taped off

In the old T-stat
Brown was connected to T
White was connected to W and U

So, is the problem in the connections or the programming of the thermostat?

Thanks in advance and have a great week!
 
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  #2  
Old 07-28-13, 05:00 PM
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Did you go into the installer's set-up menu and program the proper settings for your particular system? https://customer.honeywell.com/resou...0s/69-1785.pdf On page 13 there are tests you can perform to see if it is working properly.
 
  #3  
Old 07-28-13, 07:19 PM
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what source is your backup heat? Is is gas or electric? And yes, the new stat must be programmed to work on a 2 heat 1 cool heat pump (heat pump with aux heat)
 
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Old 07-28-13, 10:21 PM
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Guys,
I only programmed the system after reading your replies because I had to run out before. The system seems to be working properly after programming, but I would appreciate it if someone could confirm whether or not taping off (not using) the T and W wires were the right thing to do, given the fact they were used in the old Weathertron.

I mention “seems to be working” 'cause the temperatures have cooled down quite a bit from earlier in the day when I was installing this. I selected “for electric furnaces” where available due to it being the closest option to a heat pump that I could find.

ETA: I only tested the "cool and fan and "fan" and both tests seem to pass.

The programming was as follows:

1 = 5 System Type changed to 5 (2 heat/1 cool heat pump w/aux. heat)...was at 1 heat/1 cool
2 = 0 Changeover Valve left at default terminal energized in cooling...I don't know what this means...did I select the correct option?
Skipped 3 and 5
6 = 9 Stage 2 Heat Cycle Rate/Aux Heat CPH cycles per hour changed to 9 for electric furnaces...correct?
Skipped 7 and 8
9 = 3 Stage 1 Compressor Cycle Rate (CPH), default
skipped 10
12 = 0 Manual Changeover, default
13 = 1 Adaptive Intelligent Recovery , default
14 = 0 Temperature Display, default
15 = 5 Compressor Protection, default
16 = 0 Schedule Format, 5/2, default
27 = 85F
28 = 60F

I only changed Items 1, 6, 27, 28

Does all seem ok to you?

Thanks again and have a great week!
 

Last edited by MG-7-; 07-28-13 at 10:42 PM.
  #5  
Old 07-29-13, 05:31 AM
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Again what source is your aux heat? Electric or gas?
 
  #6  
Old 07-29-13, 06:49 AM
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To answer your questions a lot more information is needed about your system:

Name and model of system
Type of backup heat (gas or electric)

All you provided was that it was a 1.5 ton heat pump.

Does "Cool On" appear on the screen when the a/c is on?

I would suggest you run all of the tests. When you run these tests you will have to verify that the fan is running, the condenser is running or whatever is indicated should be happening.
 
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Old 07-29-13, 10:41 AM
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I'll have to dig out the specific brand, capacity, etc., but the system is a heat pump and all power and fuel is electricity, including for main source of heat and auxiliary heat.

"Cool on" does appear on the screen, and about two seconds after I turn on the A/C, the fan comes on.

Thanks again!
 
  #8  
Old 07-29-13, 11:57 AM
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Here is what you posted. Recommended changes in Red
The programming was as follows:

1 = 5 System Type changed to 5 (2 heat/1 cool heat pump w/aux. heat)...was at 1 heat/1 cool OK
2 = 0 Changeover Valve left at default terminal energized in cooling...I don't know what this means...did I select the correct option?Yes, that is correct
Skipped 3 and 5
Change functions 3 and 5 to 3
6 = 9 Stage 2 Heat Cycle Rate/Aux Heat CPH cycles per hour changed to 9 for electric furnaces...correct? Change to 3
Skipped 7 and 8 Set 8 to 3
9 = 3 Stage 1 Compressor Cycle Rate (CPH), default OK
skipped 10 do you have 2nd stage
12 = 0 Manual Changeover, default OK
13 = 1 Adaptive Intelligent Recovery , default OK
14 = 0 Temperature Display, default OK
15 = 5 Compressor Protection, default OK
16 = 0 Schedule Format, 5/2, default OK
27 = 85F OK
28 = 60F OK

That should get you in the ball park. Hopefully, the experts will confirm or give recommended settings.
 
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Old 07-29-13, 12:29 PM
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Thanks for the follow-up firedawgsatx!

I'll try making the changes when I'm home, but keep in mind when I wrote "skipped" I meant the system didn't even show the item number, it skipped it to the next one entered below. Maybe once I make the recommended changes, it'll let me enter values for the other items it skipped.

9 = I don't know how many stages there are but hopefully the paperwork I locate should specify.

Thanks again!
 
  #10  
Old 07-29-13, 01:01 PM
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Ok, I understand what you mean by skipped. The Honeywell TH6220D1002 is a pretty basic thermostat with limited settings to control different functions. Change function 6 to 3 and with the settings you have, it looks like you are pretty well set to go. Make sure the air filter is changed at least every 30 days and I would recommend you wash the condenser coil outside on a regular basis to keep it operating at peak efficiency.
 
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Old 07-30-13, 06:42 PM
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firedawgsatx,
Thanks again for the assistance. I've changed item 6 to equal 3, and hope one of the pics will answer whether or not the compressor has 2 stages. I usually replace the filter but never bother to clean the outside unit unless there are leaves or snow blocking it. I will do as you say and clean it as well.

I will attempt to upload links to pics of the labels on both outdoor and indoor units in case there's info. that's useful for the programming.

Thanks again!











 
  #12  
Old 07-30-13, 08:03 PM
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Based on your photo of the original thermostat wiring I believe you should have the white wire going to the Aux terminal and the black wire going to the E terminal on the new thermostat. The brown wire I am not sure about. On Trane heat pumps it is taped off and not used with programmable thermostats but on your unit I have no idea. You mentioned in your first post that you thought it was a 1.5 ton unit. Based on the model number HP036X102A it is a 3-ton unit. Here is a link that will have a lot of valuable info for you: http://www.upgnet.com/PdfFileRedirec...ETG-A-0106.pdf
 
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Old 07-30-13, 08:04 PM
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T on the old thermostat is not used on the new thermostat
 
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Old 07-30-13, 08:51 PM
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So, if Auxiliary and E are the same "AUX/E", I basically have to splice both wires and insert into that slot, correct?

T (brown) stays taped off...thanks!

Thank you also for the data sheet. It's been so long, and the memory is weak. 3 tons seems a lot for 1420 sq. ft., no?

So, if it asks me to program Item 10, does my compressor have a stage 2?

1 = 5 System Type changed to 5 (2 heat/1 cool heat pump w/aux. heat)...was at 1 heat/1 cool
2 = 0 Changeover Valve left at default terminal energized in cooling
Skipped 3 (should be 3) and 5 (should be 3)
6 = 3
Skipped 7 and 8 (should be 3)
9 = 3 Stage 1 Compressor Cycle Rate (CPH), default
skipped 10 (still not sure if there's a second stage)
12 = 0 Manual Changeover, default
13 = 1 Adaptive Intelligent Recovery , default
14 = 0 Temperature Display, default
15 = 5 Compressor Protection, default
16 = 0 Schedule Format, 5/2, default
27 = 85F
28 = 60F

I'm glad I posted the pics!

Thanks again and have a good evening!
 
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Old 07-31-13, 07:29 AM
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Are you sure your thermostat is a TH6220D1002 (unless it is an older/newer model than the install manual I am looking at)? I looked at the installation manual again and it shows that thermostat has a total of 9 terminals with separate ones for Aux and E. The 'stat in your photo only has 8 terminals with Aux/E on the same terminal.
 
  #16  
Old 07-31-13, 07:32 AM
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the new thermostat have a combined terminal for auxiliary & E
 
  #17  
Old 07-31-13, 08:05 AM
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Since auxiliary and E are combined on your thermostat you can hook up both the white and black wires to the Aux/E terminal but all of the heat strips (if you have more than one) will come on at the same time. If you want to keep the strips separate you would need to get a 'stat that has separate Aux and E terminals. Auxiliary heat is used when the heat pump can't keep up with heating the house and during defrost mode to temper the air. Emergency heat (as the name implies) is used when the heat pump is broken and you need heat (expensive) until you get a professional out or figure out how to repair it yourself. Based upon the fact that your unit is 10 SEER I would say you have single stage cooling.
 
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Old 08-03-13, 10:31 PM
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I want to thank you again guys! I've spliced both wires into the E/AUX. It never really gets too cold here, so I don't think the heatpump will ever have a problem defrosting and warming up the house. Thanks also firedawhsatx for confirming it's a single stage compressor.

Cheers!
 
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Old 10-10-13, 05:58 PM
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follow-up

This is a follow-up to the info. below. The A/C functioned fine when it was hot outside and I turned it On, but ever since I installed this new thermostat, there's been a constant humming on the outdoor unit, even when the the system was Off (I could only get the Fan display to either On or Auto, never "Off", and therefore left it on Auto). With the old, manual, thermostat, when it was Off, there was no humming outside.

This last month I didn't turn the system On one single day, and yet believe the electric bill was higher than usual given all else remained the same (including taxes, and other electric company charges).

Questions:
1. Is this humming noise from the outdoor unit normal, and if not, how can I make it stop, while still having the A/C and Heat work?

2. Is there a way to turn the Fan Off, instead of Auto or On?

Thanks in advance and a great weekend to all!
 
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