Issues with Carrier Model 58DHC

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Old 11-03-13, 03:18 PM
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Issues with Carrier Model 58DHC

This all started when the smoke alarms in our house went off upstairs with a strong smell upstairs of something that was burning. The fire dept. came and went through the house and could smell the burnt smell but could not find the source. After further exploration by myself, I tried the thermostat and the blower would not turn on. So after looking through the furnace for something that had caused the blower to stop and the burnt smell I discover that the circuit board had a small burnt spot on the back side. When I looked on the front side of the board it corresponded with the component for the blower. I ordered a new board and installed it. The blower now works fine but I am still having issues.

So here is the sequence that now happens when I raise the thermostat to tell the heater to turn on. First the blower comes on for about 90 sec. At the end of that the inducer comes on but that is as far as it goes. The hot surface igniter does not come. Also the board via the led is showing an error 31 while the inducer is going.

I have removed the upper pipe that vents the inducer and tried it and there is good air flow. I also removed the tube on the back of the pressure switch to make sure it was clear and that had no effect.

So at this point I'm looking for some help on what to do next. I appreciate your suggestion in advance.

Thanks,
Werner
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Old 11-03-13, 04:11 PM
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Check the port on the inducer motor where the hose attaches. This port has a tendency to clog up with debris. You can use a paper clip or a very small drill bit to clear it out. It must be clear all the way from the port opening to the fan blades inside.
 
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Old 11-04-13, 08:03 AM
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I'll give the paper clip idea try and see how it goes. Thanks
 
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Old 11-09-13, 10:31 AM
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Still need help

I checked the port where the tube attaches to the heater and it appears to be clear. Also note from the attached photos my tube from the switch which is only 3 inches long goes straight back not to the fan housing for the inducer. Do I need to take the inducer apart to make sure it is all clear of any blockages or does someone have another suggestion for me to try?

Thanks,
Werner
 
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Old 11-09-13, 10:50 AM
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When the ignitor won't come on it indicates the pressure switch is not closing for some reason. Here is a link to some info that may be of benefit:

http://www.docs.hvacpartners.com/idc.../58dhc-1si.pdf

On page 12, paragraph C., there is a self-test procedure that you can perform.
 
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Old 11-10-13, 12:58 PM
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Ran self test

So a bit more information. I realized that when the blower first starts I am getting error 12 then when the inducer starts I get the error 31.

Now I ran the self test and that just gives me rapid flashing. The message says that is "Line voltage (115v) polarity reversed, or twinning problem.

Are there any suggestions on what to try next?

Thanks,
Werner
 
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Old 11-10-13, 02:17 PM
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The blower should not start up until the flame has proved. Once a call for heat is made the inducer should start up, the pressure switch should close, the ignitor should energize and the gas valve should open, and once the flame is proved the blower should come on.

When you did the self-test did the inducer motor come on? The self-check first checks the control board to see if it is working properly, then the inducer motor comes on and so forth as outlined in the instructions.
 
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Old 11-10-13, 03:10 PM
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When I ran the self test the inducer did not come on. I just got the steady flashing error light.
 
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Old 11-10-13, 03:15 PM
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That doesn't sound good. I believe that indicates a bad control board.

The message says that is "Line voltage (115v) polarity reversed, or twinning problem.
It has been my experience that when that error code is shown it resulted in having to replace the control board. Hopefully, other regulars on here will weigh in with their thoughts.
 
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Old 11-10-13, 03:24 PM
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Unfortunately, the board is brand new.
 
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Old 11-10-13, 03:42 PM
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Since the board is new perhaps when it was installed the polarity was accidentally reversed. I suggest you turn off power to the furnace. Find the Sec-1 and Sec-2 terminals on the control board. Remove the wires from those terminals and switch them around. Restore power and test for operation.
 
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Old 11-10-13, 07:27 PM
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Tried swapping sec1 and sec2 but not change. Thanks for all your advise on this.

Werner
 
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Old 11-10-13, 09:06 PM
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Do you have 120V between PR-1 and PR-2 on control board?
 
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Old 11-11-13, 11:12 AM
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Yes, 122V between PR-1 and PR-2 on the control board.
 
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Old 11-11-13, 01:45 PM
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Another possibility why the inducer motor isn't running is because the Draft Safeguard Switch (DSS) has tripped. Check that switch, reset if tripped and re-test again. In the photo you posted it looks like the orange wire I circles in white is not attached to anything. The orange wire circuit should contain the DSS.
 
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Old 11-11-13, 07:37 PM
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Although in the photo the wire looks unplugged it is actually plugged in. Any further suggestions.

Thanks,
Werner
 
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Old 11-11-13, 07:40 PM
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Also the DSS does not have a reset button. Is there another way to reset it?
 
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Old 11-11-13, 07:41 PM
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I thought it was the type that has a manual reset button but apparently it is a self-resetting type.
 
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Old 11-11-13, 08:18 PM
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Also I suggest you check to make sure the control board is properly grounded. On page 7 of the manual I linked to in an earlier post it shows the location of the ground and further clarified by note #1. Proper grounding is critical for proper operation.
 
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Old 11-11-13, 08:22 PM
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I'll check to make sure that it is grounded correctly.
 
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Old 11-12-13, 08:50 AM
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On my new control board I did not cut the JW9 jumper wire as it was not cut on the old board. However the instructions do say that for 90% of furnaces you should cut it. Also this is not an exact match as my old board since they don't make the old board any more. So could this be causing my issue and should I cut it?
 
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Old 11-12-13, 10:10 AM
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I believe your furnace is 80% and I don't think that is causing your issue. Cutting the JW9 jumper wire results in a 15 second delay for the induction motor. Can you post the model number of the original and replacement control boards?
 
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Old 11-12-13, 06:35 PM
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Original control board Carrier CES0110057-00. New board ICM281.
 
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Old 11-12-13, 09:40 PM
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I checked the installation guide for the ICM281:

http://www.icmcontrols.com/ProdImages/ig_LIA231-2.pdf

I see the self-test instructions on the second page are different. The thermostat has to be turned to OFF/thermostat wires removed before doing the self test.

Also, inspect the edge connector that attached to the board. That connector becomes corroded and turns green and causes problems. Each wire can be removed from that connector with a very small screwdriver for cleaning if you still have metal there. I've cleaned the inside of the connector with some flattened steel wool, then blew it out with compressed nitrogen to get one back in service before. You don't want to leave any steel wool behind or it will cause problems.
 
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