Thermostat to replace BAYSTAT240 for TRANE XR13


Old 01-08-14, 09:18 PM
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Thermostat to replace BAYSTAT240 for TRANE XR13

My parents house in Harrisonburg, Virginia, has a BAYSTAT240 thermostat controlling a TRANE XR13 (2TWR3) with a PSC (2TGB) air handler.

We had a strange electrical event during the recent cold snap. The 150-amp main breaker in a service entrance panel containing only HVAC breakers tripped when no downstream breaker tripped. HVAC pro came and checked current draw and found all as expected, about 88 amps total with all electric heaters active.

With electric heaters active, main breaker was buzzing. With electric heaters not active, no buzzing. Ran the system for a while until the main breaker tripped again. I was there, and checked the main breaker for heat. Too hot to maintain contact with fingers.

Conclusion is that the main breaker is malfunctioning. Long term solution is to replace main breaker at minimum. Because the breaker box contains only 4 breakers, and because both main breaker and box show some corrosion due to prior moisture intrusion, will probably replace the whole box. Either way requires pulling the meter and having power out during the repair action.

Not wanting to pursue a project that significant hastily in the dead of winter, I decided on the following as an interim approach.

1. Buy several 1500 watt room heaters. My parents, age 92 and 88, have a large house, but now spend almost all their time in only a few rooms.

2. Disable aux heat by disconnecting/taping the white wire at the BAYSTAT240 thermostat. (Thermostat turns on blue light, but no signal goes to air handler.)

The heat pump, without running the electric heaters, will achieve a temperature in the high 60's on most winter nights here in the Shenandoah Valley. The room heaters seem to be able to do the rest.

Finally, to the 2 questions.

1. Are there any flaws in my interim strategy?

2. What thermostat should I get to replace the BAYSTAT240?

There will be no programming of setback periods.

The features I know I want:

a. Auto-switch between heating and cooling. Lots of days when this is useful in our area.

b. Ability to lockout aux heat when outdoor temperature is moderate.

A feature I may want if the supplemental room heater strategy works well through the winter:

c. Prevent aux heat from ever running unless emergency heat is called for (when heat pump operation fails).
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Old 01-12-14, 02:37 PM
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Anyone please help us too !!

On 06-29-2012 ,We have installed new 5 ton condenser/ outside unit 13 seer R-22 REEM model # 13AJA60. all electric connected to evaporator coil in our attic:GOODMAN R-22 LRA146 MODEL U-60 REVB (cooling with electric and HEATING with natural gas) ,also an expansion valve connected to the attic unit.Last night we had thunder storm, our heater was on , thermostat was set at: AUTO/HEAT at 70 degree in our white rogers non programmable thermostat model :1F56-444. At night lightening struck and 2 of our circuit breakers were tripped next morning. Since then,we noticed that the attic unit blower continuesly was running, even if we set our thermostat changed from heat to OFF position..we decided to turn the breaker off to shut off the HVAC system, until find out what is wrong?? IS IT DUE TO BAD THERMOSTAT??? Someone with little know-how is suggesting us to buy a new non programmable thermostat and to replace with our older white rogers 1F56-444 one. and that should resolve this problem..... anyone please advise accordingly.....thanks...

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