Replacing a Goodman Janitrol HPT 18-60 Thermostat

Hi,

I'm interested in replacing my old Goodman Janitrol HPT 18-60 Thermostat with a more efficient digital thermostat.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I do not know how to tell how many stages my system is. Any help in that regard would also be appreciated.

I do not know the make of the inside unit, but the model number is AR36-1.

Thank you,

 

Welcome to the forums.

Your unit is a Goodman. It appears to be a three ton A/C heat pump with electric re-heat coils.

What kind of thermostat are you looking for..... like a basic digital programmable type ?
Heat pump systems don't work well with setback thermostats as they take a long time to recuperate from a setback and during that time you would be using electric heat to supplement the heat pump.

Jay or Houston, the forum pros, will stop by and make a recommendation based on what you are looking for.

Link to your air handler
Goodman specs AR series

 

Thanks for the info and the link PJ. A setback thermostat is not important to me, it doesn't need to be programmable. I just want a digital thermostat to update the look of the living room and hopefully provide a bit more efficiency than the old one.

I'm not looking for anything fancy or with tons of bells and whistles, just practicality. Cost is important too.

I'd be very satisfied with whatever thermostat the pros recommend would be best.

If I can provide anything else, let me know.

Thanks again!

 

I wouldn't recommend anything below a Honeywell 5000 series thermostat.
A non-programmable TH5220D1003 thermostat is a good multistage choice. (for ~ $60 @ Amazon)

A Honeywell non-programmable TH5220D1029 thermostat is a good multistage choice with a slightly larger display. (~$67)

(22 is 2 heat / 2 cool so an 11 would not support a heat pump with aux heat)

If you want a stat from a big box store I recommend the Honeywell 7000 series or higher. These would be programmable but you can set the heating setpoints alike to avoid bringing on the expensive heat strips when recovering from a set back. (RTH7400, RTH7500 with autochangeover, RTH7600 touchscreen)

WiFi is something that you may wish to consider at this time. I recommend using a Honeywell wifi stat if you choose this option. (A WiFi Honeywell RTH6580WF is ~$100 @ Home Depot)

 

Thanks for the tip Houston.

I think I'm going to go for the Honeywell TH5220D1003 Non-Programmable Digital Thermostat.

Is there anything else you think I should know?

 

I'd take a look at the terminals in use at the existing stat before ordering a new stat.

I do not think that your existing thermostat supports Y2 in heat pump application, so the TH5220D should work but it wouldn't hurt to have a look.

Remove power to the air handler before replacing a thermostat to avoid damage to a fuse or transformer.

The TH5220D must be configured to match your system. This is not difficult and we can provide assistance if you have any questions.

 

Hey Houston,

Here's a picture of my current thermostat:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]25501[/ATTACH]

I tried to post a larger picture, but the site wouldn't let me.

Should I touch back after I receive the thermostat for configuration advice or is it something you can give now?

Thanks for all the help.

 

Set the new stat for heat pump with aux heat.
Set the O/B terminal for energize to cool.

 

Thanks for the help.

I'm ordering from Amazon tonight and will touch back with you in a few days if I need any further assistance.

 

I received the thermostat yesterday and I plan on installing it this evening. I need some guidance on wiring the the new stat.

Here's a picture of the terminals on the new stat:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]25877[/ATTACH]

It's sort of hard to view the picture. The terminals from left to right are:

L - Aux/E - G - O/B - C - Y - R - Rc

There's a jumper from the R to the Rc terminal.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

L - Aux/E - G - O/B - C - Y - R - Rc

Aux/E = white
G = green
O/B = orange
C = blue
Y = yellow
Rc & R = red

I'd tape off the brown E wire.

 

Houston, your assistance was invaluable! Thank you very much for your help.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]25924[/ATTACH]
(The thermostat is level, the picture I took was crooked.)

The auxiliary heat control setting had two choices, comfort and economy. I chose comfort. I am thinking that choosing comfort has the auxiliary heat kick on quicker than the economy setting. Is that correct?

Also, what did the brown wire do? ( I taped it off.)

Thanks again!

 

I always choose comfort.

Brown controls a heat strip. If you have 10KW or less, it is probably controlling the same strip that W controlled.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...AHUdiagram.jpg

 

Thanks for the insight Houston.

The only thing that I've noticed about the thermostat that could be considered a complaint is that it clicks once when turning on and again when turning off.

We've sort of grown used to it already, but no click would be great too.

 

Most thermostats use relays for complete isolation and power handling. Some are louder than others. I have an older Honeywell that is also loud when calling for heat.

 

I came across this forum while searching for replacing my thermostat. I have the same old goodman thermo but my new one was given to me. it is a hunter model 44157. Will it be okay?

 

I don't believe that thermostat is compatible with your system. Like Houston, I prefer the Honeywell 5000 series. My personal preference is the TH5220D1029 which has the larger display.

 

The Hunter thermostats are basic inexpensive replacements.

Y - yellow - Y/O
G - green - G
R - red - Rh/Rc
O - orange - Y1
W - white - W/B
C - black - (common) tape off-unused

Hunter fan/SupportDocuments/OwnersManuals/42708-01.pdf

In looking up programming for your unit I found this...... for Single Stage Heat Pump - No auxiliary
I think you have a heat pump with auxiliary.

Before making any wiring changes wait for Houston or Jay, the forums pros, to stop by.

 

http://www.menards.com/main/store/20...155_manual.pdf



Your new stat will not support your heat pump with aux heat.

 

Thank you, what kind of thermostat do you think would work?

 

I recommend a Honeywell 5000 series or higher as stated in post 4.

 

Honeywell TH5320U1001 Focus Pro 5000 Thermostat, Digital, 3H/2C, Large
or
TH5110D1006 FocusPRO 5000 Digital Non-Programmable Thermostat, Single Stage, Standard Display

 

Refer to post 4. The 5110 won't work.

 

Hi,
I am trying to replace the Janitrol HPT18-60 thermostat with a Honeywell RTH6580WF1001

The honeywell connection is as the image below:


I had wired it according to how the Janitrol was wired:
On the heat pump section, i wired
Yellow-Y
Green-G
Orange -O/B
Red-R
Black-C
White and Blue to Aux/E
Taped the brown wire.

I powered the thermostat on, set the system to Heat pump with aux/backup heating. When I place system to heat and the fan to auto,the system does not turn on the fan ( even with the temp setting higher than the indoor temp). Is there anything i am doing wrong? Any help would be appreciated.

 

I would remove and reconnect the green wire on G. I would also verify that the pins that connect the stat to the base are not bent.

 

In the setup menu did you set function 2 to 0 and function 3 to 1 (if auxiliary heating is electric heat strips)?

 

Hi Houston,I will check green wire again and check the pins. Thank you very much for your quick response.

 

Hi fire, great catch. I will try that. Never changed function 2 and 3. Thank you for the quick response.

 

Thanks Houston and Fire, for the suggestions, it worked!!
I checked the green wire,made sure the front panel sat flush with the base plate; in the software setup, i set function 1 to 5 (heat pump with aux heating), but the system bypasses function 3. So i had to check the wiring on my heat system ( its a Bryant 517EN036)



Realized i had 2 heat stages and 1 cooling stage ( wires on W and W2, one wire in Y). So i set Function 1 to 7; Function 3 to 1; Function 5 and 6 to 9 ( electric heating systems). set the defaults on all other functions.

The thermostat works great now. I probably need to check my heat system, i have never seen the outside fan unit turn on..i guess it uses the heat strips all the time.

Thank you both for the suggestions.

 

Glad to hear you got the thermostat to function.

You definitely want to get that issue corrected. Heating with only heat strips is expensive. The heat strips should only come on during heat pump defrost mode and when the heat pump needs help maintaining desired temperature setting.

What is the model of your heat pump condenser? Maybe someone has a wiring diagram and can help you figure out why it is not coming on.

 

I am going to call a service tech to check on the system. Thanks for the help.

 

Hey all,

I received a new NEST thermostat and have the same setup as Thomasjwolfe. I was wondering if my system is a single or dual? The wiring on my goodman is exactly the same as the Original Poster. You guys state not to use the brown E wire, should I wire my NEST the same way without the Brown E?

According to their compatibility checker I should wire it as such as attached in the picture.

Thanks!

 

Yours is a different type of thermostat than Thomasjwolfe's as the one he installed did not have a separate terminal for the emergency heat wire. It appears the wiring in your image is correct for your system. Make sure you turn off power to the unit before doing the wiring.

 

Thanks for the quick response firedawgsatx!

Just to make sure we're all on the same page, I have attached the wiring guide. Any idea if its one or two stage?



The reason why I ask is that the Nest requires this information. My airhandler also looks like the one mentioned earlier.

 

W2 is for auxiliary heating. This energizes the electric heat strips when the heat pump is in defrost mode and when the heat pump can't keep up warming up the house to set temperature. The emergency heat (E) is used when the heat pump breaks down. When you set the thermostat to Emergency Heat you would only be using electric heat strips until the heat pump can be repaired and put back into service. So it would be considered a 1-stage Cool/2 stage heat.

 

Awesome! This helps a ton and eases my mind on doing this DIY! I checked around the air handler and it looks to be all electric so I'm guessing this is considered single fuel?

 

Yes, single fuel. An example of a dual fuel system would be a heat pump with a gas furnace for auxiliary heating.

 

Hi,

I was looking for info to replace my thermostat and came upon this site. I have the same setup as thomasjwolfe. Was looking at the wiring pics and my white wire that goes to the W2 is not connected. Don't believe it ever has. The brown is on E and blue is on C. I have to switch the stat to emergency when it looks like the temps are gonna go below 27 degrees. That is what the original installer told me to do. If the W2 is hooked up I wouldn't have to do this correct? The stat is getting old and the switches are kinda worn and sloppy so that is why I came to this site. I decided to join because of the good info.

Thanks

 

Welcome to the forum!! The W2 wire is typically connected to power the auxiliary heat strips as explained in post #35. If the wiring is connected properly the auxiliary heating will automatically kick in when the heat pump can't keep up, when the thermostat is set two degrees above the current set temperature or when it goes into defrost mode. You would need to verify the W2 wire is actually connected in the air handler. That installer is erroneous in what he told you, Emergency heat is only used when the heat pump is broken and you need to provide heat until the heat pump is repaired. It all depends on the system and how many heat strips are installed and if they are staged or just wired together. Electric heat strips are a lot more expensive to operate in most areas unless you have a very low electricity rate. If you install a high quality thermostat it will be capable of locking out the heat pump at a certain temperature and only using heat strips. Personally I do not lock my two heat pumps out and they do a great job keeping my home warm.

 

Thanks for the reply. i have a 2 story home with a split system. Went upstairs and checked that stat and the W2 wire is hooked up upstairs. Turned off the power to the downstairs unit and hooked the W2 wire back up and have great heat now. The outside unit is running also. There is a difference between the two systems in the way they operate tho. Downstairs unit comes on as soon as you turn the stat to heat. Upstairs has a delay of about 20 seconds. I can hear the unit come on outside before the fan kicks in.