What's involved in converting to a dual fuel setup from AC and gas furnace?

Reply

  #1  
Old 09-07-14, 07:44 AM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
What's involved in converting to a dual fuel setup from AC and gas furnace?

I currently have a York Propane furnace and a 3.5ton York AC unit (R22). Both are 10yo.

Currently, I'm having issues with my AC. The coil froze up and we found that it was low on freon. When we tried to fill it, after making sure there was no ice on the A-coil, we noticed something odd ... We kept adding R22, and the pressure wouldn't go up. Then all the sudden, the compressor made a clunking sound, as if something got unplugged and pressure started to raise. After the recharge everything seems fine, except when the compressor starts up.

When the compressor starts up, it's as if the pressure build up then levels out... and most times, there's a squeaking sound. Drive me nutz! And unless this is a easy fix, I want to replace it with a heatpump, so I can use either the heatpump or gas furnace for heat.

Assuming the cost to fix the existing AC unit is high, how hard would it be to do a conversion to a heatpump? Do I just need a new heatpump and a new thermostat that can control heat as the heat pump and emergency heat wired to the furnace?

Thanks!!
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 09-07-14, 08:04 AM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,426
Received 17 Votes on 14 Posts
A new evaporator coil, new 6 or 8 conductor wire to the outdoor unit and thermostat and an outdoor temperature sensor would also be needed.
 
  #3  
Old 09-07-14, 06:38 PM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Does this hold true for converting to a dual fuel setup? Does the new thermostat control which heat source to use, or do I need to do something else?

Thanks!
 
  #4  
Old 09-07-14, 06:49 PM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
What's involved in converting to a dual fuel setup from AC and gas furnace?

I originally posted a question about switching from AC to a Heat Pump on the AC forum, but I think I goof posting there. The reason is, what I'm really interested in doing is to replace my existing AC with a heat pump, and using it as a dual fuel setup, with my existing propane furnace. I could be wrong, but I have this crazy feeling that a heat pump will be cheaper heat, most of the time, compared to my propane furnace. Plus, I like the ideal of having 2 heating sources, in case one stops working.

Ok.. So here's what I currently have. I have a York propane furnace and a York 3.5 ton AC. They are both 10 years old, but recently, I started having issues with my AC unit... It was lot on R22 and since it's been recharged, it squeals and just doesn't sound right...

To do the conversion, do I just get a dry Heat pump, new evap coil and a new thermostat or do I need something else in addition?

If I have to replace my furnace, I can't do it.. I don't have the money to replace my AC, but I figure, I'm better off going into a little debt to replace my AC versus, not having AC with young kids in the house. And if I'm going to replace it, I might as well do it now, with a heat pump, for dual fuel, so I can save some $$ doing this winter. $400 monthly propane bills have been killing me! I don't understand why, for the last few year, it's been cheaper to keep my house cool in the summer than heating it in the winter... My summer electric bills have been just over $200 a month...

BTW, when I inquired with a friend about converting to R410a, I was told that would not be possible without replacing my furnace. Is this true, or can I go with a R410a heat pump, with my existing gas furnace, to use in a dual fuel setup?

Thanks!!
 
  #5  
Old 09-07-14, 08:09 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,402
Received 1,018 Votes on 945 Posts
I combined your two threads into one.
 
  #6  
Old 09-07-14, 08:33 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,426
Received 17 Votes on 14 Posts
I would switch to R410a. There is no issue with keeping the existing furnace unless you want a 2 speed heat pump and your existing furnace doesn't have a variable speed blower.

The existing lineset would need to be blown out with nitrogen

A Honeywell TH8321 would support your dual fuel setup if you also get the outdoor sensor. It would need the be the pro model the RTH series should be avoided.

The Honeywell Redlink series would support a wireless outdoor temperature sensor.

The EIM used with a Redlink thermostat would run with only 2 conductors to the stat, so you would only need to pull new wire to the outdoor unit.

The Honeywell Redlink Prestige IAQ with a wireless outdoor sensor would be a great option.
 
  #7  
Old 09-08-14, 06:20 AM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So what I would need is the Honeywell thermostat (Honeywell YTHX9421R5101WW), and it's accessories, A 3.5TON Heat Pump (non-2 stage), and new Evap coil?

My buddy works maintenance at an apartment complex, so he has all the gear to do this ... vacuum, EPA certified (can get R22). nitrogen, and what not. He replaces AC units all the time, but has never done a dual fuel setup, since it's all within an apartment complex. And even with his help, it's not enough... So you'll be seeing me here asking all kinds of question...

Thanks for all your help so far!!

Now I just need my buddy to get me some pricing from his suppler...
 
  #8  
Old 09-08-14, 10:42 AM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
BTW, I just found some pix of the model numbers, of my existing setup..

HE36348C210B2505AP - On Air Handler
P3URC14N09501 - On Furnace



Based on Google.. It seems I have a York Diamond 90... which looks to be a single stage blower, but I saw an old York brochure that stated it came as a single stage or a 2 stage. Can I assume, regardless of the type of blower that any heat pump would work with it, as long as it doesn't require a variable blower?

Is it also possible to tell what evap coil, would be a direct replacement, based on what's showing?

Thanks again!
 
  #9  
Old 09-08-14, 05:26 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,426
Received 17 Votes on 14 Posts
So what I would need is the Honeywell thermostat (Honeywell YTHX9421R5101WW), and it's accessories, A 3.5TON Heat Pump (non-2 stage), and new Evap coil?
You are also going to need at least 6 conductor wire to the outdoor unit (preferably 8 conductor wire)


http://www.upgnet.com/PdfFileRedirec...001-C-0704.pdf

I see an upflow furnace and a 4 ton multiposition evaporator coil model number but no air conditioner.

Name:  ADP nomenclature.jpg
Views: 5702
Size:  44.8 KB
 
  #10  
Old 09-08-14, 07:14 PM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Sorry about not showing the AC.. I was at work and I happened to have those pix because I took them before checking my evap coil ... when it was frozen over because of low R22.

As for the AC unit, It's a York also. I just went out and was able to get a sorta pic of it. The model # is H1RD042S06A. Based on the model #, it's a 3.5 ton unit.

I'd like to replace it with a higher than 13 seer heat pump. Is there any reason why I can't use a >13 seer heat pump with my existing York Diamond 90 furnace? If I can use a >13 seer HP, what's the catch? Do I just need to make sure it's a single stage heat pump?



Thanks!!
 

Last edited by crabjoe; 09-08-14 at 07:30 PM. Reason: adding image
  #11  
Old 09-08-14, 08:03 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,426
Received 17 Votes on 14 Posts
York has 16 SEER single speed units available in that size...


http://www.upgnet.com/PdfFileRedirec...YTG-F-0714.PDF
 

Last edited by Houston204; 09-08-14 at 08:37 PM.
  #12  
Old 09-08-14, 08:17 PM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So I'm not stuck with a 13 seer unit. I can pick up whatever as long as it's a single speed unit?

BTW, an old friend of mine, who is a HVAC tech called today to see if I needed any help. I told him what I wanted to do ... Go with York ... but he's telling me to just go with any brand except a few like Goodman, and it could save me $$ over York. Based on that, do you have any recommendations, other than York or a heat pump? Also, do you think I might be better off going with a 4 ton unit, since it seems I have a 4 ton evap coil? I plan on replacing the coil with the same... My place is just over 2400sf of finished living space. I have about a 1200 sq basement, which currently isn't finished... With my existing setup, my home is a Energy Star certified home. At least that's what was in the builders adverts, when I bought the place.... Oh.. My current 3.5 ton unit.. It drive me nutz.. not just because of the noise, but because it seems to run non-stop... on, off, on, off, on, off...
 
  #13  
Old 09-08-14, 09:48 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,426
Received 17 Votes on 14 Posts
Are you saying that your existing unit cycles too often? If this is the case you wouldn't want to go with a bigger unit now.

You are not stuck with York but I would lean toward one if I could get it a good price. Probably wouldn't matter as much unless you plan to sell the house.

What brand does your buddy get?
 
  #14  
Old 09-09-14, 05:49 AM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
My one friend has access to HD Supply, my other friend uses Aireco. I might also have access to RE Michel, which is a different distributor. RE Michel carries Armstrong, from what I remember. Looking at HD Supplies site, it looks like they carry Goodman, Duroguard, Payne, and Trane. No idea what Aireco carries, I'll have to wait for my buddy to call to get that info. He rattled off a bunch of names, yesterday, but I was busy when he called. I know none of these suppliers carry York. So If keep York, I'll have to purchase online. Once I hear from my buddy, I'll get a list of what Airco carries. For some reason, I think they carry Lennox off brands. But based on Aireco's site, it looks like Amanda is one of the brands... I can't figure what what others are based on the names....
 
  #15  
Old 09-09-14, 08:22 AM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
School me on Evap coils..

I ask because I found this coil, ADP HE35648C210B2505AP, which looks like a direct replacement for my existing coil, but it's listed as a non-bleed, AC, TXV, 410A coil. My original coil is a Bleed, AC, TXV R22 coil.

So here are my questions....

What is the difference between an Evap coil for AC versus one for a Heat pump?
What's the difference between Bleed and non-bleed, does it matter?
Can a R-410a coil be used with R-22? The site says it can, but if a 410a coil can be used with R-22, why have separate listing?

Thanks!
 
  #16  
Old 09-09-14, 11:51 AM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,426
Received 17 Votes on 14 Posts
http://www.emersonclimate.com/Docume...0Card%2026.pdf


What is the difference between an Evap coil for AC versus one for a Heat pump?
The refrigerant must also be able to run backwards through the indoor coils in heat pumps.


What's the difference between Bleed and non-bleed, does it matter?
Non bleed is more efficient. A hard start kit may be required if the outdoor unit doesn't have a scroll compressor.

Can a R-410a coil be used with R-22? The site says it can, but if a 410a coil can be used with R-22, why have separate listing?
They would have different expansion valves.
 
  #17  
Old 09-09-14, 05:17 PM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Dude!! You are so helpful, I wish I could get you a beer or something....
I heard back from on friend and he tells me the heat pumps he gets from HD Supply are either Trane or Payne.. Other options are Duraguard and Goodman, but he says to stay away from them. I haven't heard back from my other friend yet... So I'm still waiting!!

Thanks!!
 
  #18  
Old 09-09-14, 10:32 PM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Houston204,

Will an Amana ASZ140421 work with my York Diamond 90 furnace in a dual fuel setup? Based on findthebest site, it reads as if it's a good compromise for what I'm looking for...

Here's the product specs - http://www.amana-hac.com/Portals/1/pdf/SS/SS-ASZ14.pdf

BTW, I can't figure out if it has a scroll compressor or not, but from my understanding all the Amana/Goodman units have it, once you it 14 seers. I also don't know if I can believe this or not, but some people seem to say Amana and Goodman are identical, except for the label. Others say that Amana has better features and are quieter. I need quiet because the heat pump is right outside my living room window.
 
  #19  
Old 09-10-14, 04:20 AM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,426
Received 17 Votes on 14 Posts
It has a scroll compressor and compressor blanket.
It is 73 decibels.
It is a 14 SEER.
It calls for 1 1/8" and 3/8" refrigerant lines. I'd be surprised if your existing lines are not 7/8" and 3/8".

The Goodman GSZ14 3.5 ton is a little louder at 75 decibels.
 
  #20  
Old 09-10-14, 12:04 PM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So I called ADP to see if they had a heat pump Evap coil, for something that calls for Puron, that was a direct fit to what I have now. I was told, my existing coil was it.. The only difference was the TXV. When I questioned them about replacing it, with a factory fresh unit, I was told as long as my existing coil was flushed and a new TXV installed, I wouldn't need to replace it for R-410a.

After I insisted on getting a new model number, for a new Evap coil, I was give one. Still, they're telling me I don't need to replace it.... I should have asked if the Max pressure design goes to 600 vs 450, with just the TXV change.. If I can use the old 10 yo coil, it would would be a savings of a few hundred there.
 
  #21  
Old 09-10-14, 02:16 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,426
Received 17 Votes on 14 Posts
I suspect that the heat pump distributor would not be as happy about leaving the old coil.

My Rheem distributor threatened to void warranty because of a 2 week old coil that had r22 in it.

Your indoor coil will be running twice the pressure with R410a.
 
  #22  
Old 09-11-14, 07:54 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,426
Received 17 Votes on 14 Posts
I installed an Aprilaire 1850 dehumidifier today and wired it to the Honeywell Prestige IAQ.

This Prestige IAQ is now controlling a humidifier, dehumidifier, a fresh air damper and is wired to a return air duct sensor and a supply air duct sensor, it is also connected to a wireless indoor temperature and humidity sensor. It still has two sets of sensor terminals available.

It is an impressive control.
 
  #23  
Old 09-05-15, 10:18 PM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Houston, you still around?

As of today, I never got around to doing the switch because winter came was around the corner and it wasn't needed .. when summer came, AC was still working fine, other than the start up noise... that was until about 2 weeks ago... Dang AC seems to be running non-stop and it's just not cooling well.... So I'm going to bit the bullet and just replace it...

I found a local wholesaler that's got a 4ton Goodman HP for $1400... I just can't pass on the price, plus, it's a single stage unit, as you had stated I needed....

I've got the RE Michel catalog here and they carry ADP Evap coils.. Problem is they don't have the same coil I currently have, but something similar.. I'll give them a call on Tuesday to see which one I need... I'm thinking an uncased coil would be easiest, I already have an ADP cased coil.

Now.. here's the questions again...

1. The Goodman calls for 1 1/8" line, but the connection says 7/8"... Do I need 1 1/8" line or will the 7/8" do? It seems crazy to me that they call for a larger diameter line when the connection is only 7/8".
http://www.goodmanmfg.com/DesktopMod...31SS-SSZ14.pdf


2. Thermostat - Will the Honeywell TH8321R1001 VisionPRO 8000 work for dual fuel or do I need something that says IAQ? What's my cheapest option? I'm having a hard time swallowing spending $200+ for a thermostat.

3. Pad for the new unit... My current York AC unit is on a wall mounted bracket... It looks like it's lag bolted into the concrete. Got any ideas on what kind of bolts I need so I can move it to the other side of my house? The builder put my existing unit under a window for the family room, and it's loud... especially when it rains because you hear ever drop on the fan.

4. I currently have a 3CFM vacuum pump that I use for automotive AC work... Can I use this it was with the new R-410a setup, or do I need something something that can pull more CFMs?

I'll probably have more questions as this thing comes together.. but for now, that's what I need help with...

Thanks again!!
 
  #24  
Old 09-06-15, 12:11 AM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I already have another question...

It seems, my gas furnace is has an input BTU rating of 100,000. I'm guessing an output rating of 80,000. Being that a heat pump is only going to give me about 40K BTUs, will that work, for temps down to 35F-40F, or am I wasting my time and money, going the duel fuel route?
 
  #25  
Old 09-06-15, 07:02 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 186
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
1) 7/8 line in most cases works for a 4 ton system. 1 1/8 is only required in extremely long runs of line.

2) Your thermostat is the brains of the system. The more expensive you go the more control you have over it, and with dual fuel you will want lots of control. If you can afford the IAQ then it is well worth it.

3) A heat pump needs to be on a platform at least 12 inches high to keep it clear of snow/ice. I would also place it in a location not too far off the beaten path. You will need to shovel around it in deep snow. I have mine sitting on a 12 inch platform not too far from the back door. It's not bolted to the house at all. It just sits there on the platform.

4) Can't really talk too much about charging a system.... they'll shut the thread down, but 3 cfm SHOULD be fine, especially if a nitrogen sweep is carried out a few times.

100,000 btu is overkill for 2400 sq ft house, especially if you don't even go down below freezing.

(Just noticed you were in MD. I doubt you have to worry about snow too much!)
 
  #26  
Old 09-06-15, 08:01 AM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the info Bob, but I'm still wondering why they're calling for a 1 1/8" line when the connector is 7/8". When I spoke with my buddy last night (He is a maintenance guy that's EPA licensed), he said he's never seen anything larger then 7/8" on residential units. BTW, He said he's got an 8 CFM vacuum... so I'm good there, but said if I used my vac, I would need to do a triple vac.. I guess that means nitro flushing it 3 times.

I thing I'm going to just get the Honeywell YTHX9421R5127WW Prestige IAQ Redlink Internet Gateway Thermostat Kit... I'm guessing I'll need to get the wireless outdoor sensor to get it to work... Having a super hard time spending the kind of $$ on a thermostat ...

Where I am in MD, we get 1 or 2 good snowfalls a year. The thing about the snow here is that it never sticks around long because the temps tend to bound back above freezing quick.... And for my current AC location, it's north facing with it under my family room window, the noise drive me up the wall! I really need to move it to the south facing side because it's where the dining room is and that room is only used 2 or 3 times a year... when family and friends come over for Christmas, Easter and or Thanksgiving.. It's a slope on the side, so I would either need to level it or get the wall bracket. My current unit is mounted on a bracket, so I'm hoping I can reuse it... Assuming it's possible to reuse, can I reuse the bolts or would new bolts be needed? Also, if I need to replace the bolts, what type should I get use in a poured foundation wall?

Based on your comment about my gas furnace ... it seems a 40K BTU heat pump should be fine to 40F .. which is where I'm planning on setting the thermostat before it switches to the gas furnace... on a 2400 sqft home...

BTW, my home is super air tight... This I know because of the dang stink bugs! They only end up in the house when the kids leave a door open... Outside of that, some years I don't even see one in the house... unlike some of the homes I've been in that get infested with them... If you don't know... These Stink bugs go into homes as the temp starts to drop outside... hehehehe... It might not be the right way to check to see how tight a home is, but it works for me.
 
  #27  
Old 09-06-15, 10:50 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,402
Received 1,018 Votes on 945 Posts
Based on your comment about my gas furnace ... it seems a 40K BTU heat pump should be fine to 40F .. which is where I'm planning on setting the thermostat before it switches to the gas furnace... on a 2400 sqft home...
You would need to compare electric and gas rates to see if installing a heat pump even makes sense. In most areas it's cheaper to heat with gas and not even use the heat pump. Where I am here in NJ..... natural gas is the much better bargain over the heat pump.

Expansion (sleeve anchors) are a good choice for mounting to your foundations.

Name:  sleeve.jpg
Views: 347
Size:  3.8 KB
 
  #28  
Old 09-06-15, 01:48 PM
B
Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 186
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Your Goodman will come precharged for up to a 15 foot line set. Anything more than that and you will have to add .6OZ per extra foot.

As stated 1 1/8 line is only required for crazy long runs. Most residential set ups do not require it.

Try locating the condenser in as sunny an area as possible. It won't need to defrost so often.

The Goodman defrost system is another matter too. It's timed defrost system which is not the most efficient. Once the condenser coil drops to 31 degrees the system will start defrosting every time period you set. The choice of settings is 30, 60, 90 or 120 minutes. If you're in an area where it's really not that humid then it will defrost at the set time period whether it needs it or not.

I have a Goodman (4 ton, 2 stage) and I'm in the process of converting it over to demand defrost. This only defrosts when sensors pick up frost on the coils so there are no wasted defrost cycles.
 
  #29  
Old 09-06-15, 06:44 PM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks all!!

I'm going to order the Honeywell YTHX9421R5127WW Prestige IAQ Redlink Internet Gateway Thermostat Kit and the outdoor sensor tomorrow.. If this is won't work, someone please let me know.

As for the cost of using a heat pump vs gas ... Natural gas is probably cheaper, but I'm on Propane... And the Propane bill has been killing me... Plus the biggest expense of going dual fuel ... since I'll be replacing the ac unit any ways, is the thermostat...

Demand defrost, can it be added or do I need a more expensive unit?

Thanks!
 
  #30  
Old 09-06-15, 08:57 PM
B
Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 186
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
If you know what you are doing you can convert over. The older Goodman's were easier.... just take the board out and replace it with A Rheem demand defrost board. The newer high end Goodman's with the comfortnet boards however (like the one I have) are a bit more difficult. The board is too involved to just simply take out so you have to rig up the Rheem demand defrost board to the comfortnet coil sensor.

Don't know what board yours has.... Probably not a comfortnet board though. If it's a PCDM133 board then it *might* simply be switched out (would have to see a wiring diagram to confirm).

Rheem uses Demand defrost along with I think Lenox... there are also a few others... don't remember off hand though.
 
  #31  
Old 09-06-15, 09:15 PM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I'm planning was planning on going with the SSZ14 4ton model, but I might stick with the 3.5 ton, since my current York AC unit is a 3.5ton and until last year, the cooling capability was fine.. The only thing that worries me about sticking with the 3.5ton is how long it runs. I feel like it never turns off... And I'm worried that it might not be enough, if I finish off the basement...

Getting back to the demand defrost.... Do you know if defrost circuit can be a direct swap with the Rheem on the the SSZ14 units? There's a wiring diagram on page 37.
http://resource.ecmdi.com/is/content...et.pdf?fmt=pdf
 
  #32  
Old 09-07-15, 04:40 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 186
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yours looks pretty simple. You should be able to just completely remove and replace that defrost board with a rheem board. There is one minor modification you would have to do on that board though. Rheem energizes the reversing valve during heat mode while Goodman energizes it during cool mode so you either have to reverse the relay contacts on the board or use and additional relay to reverse the situation.

Rheem Ruud Weather King Heat Pump Defrost Control Board Sensor 47 21517 16 | eBay

White Rodgers is actually coming out with a Universal board where there is a switch on the board to choose which direction the reversing valve operates on. I'm not sure if it's out yet or out next year but that would probably be the easiest for you.

Here's the WR board being installed on a Goodman:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ajk11q69o9M

I would probably go with the 4 ton.
Heat pumps are a bit difficult to size. You need more BTU's in the Winter than you do in the Summer which leads to a bit of a complication. If you size for the Summer (which most people do) then it's too small for the Winter. Conversely if you size for the Winter then it's too big for the Summer and short cycles which makes it difficult to properly remove humidity. Granted there is not a huge difference between 3.5 and 4 ton, but I would go with the 4 ton anyway.

My Summer size works out to about 2 tons and my Winter size works out to about 4 tons. I went with a 4 ton 2 stage and set my IAQ stat to pretty much disallow the second stage in the Summer so it pees along on stage one for most of the Summer on stage one. Stage two only kicks in when there is a really large temperature difference.
 

Last edited by Bob Sanders; 09-07-15 at 05:01 AM.
  #33  
Old 09-07-15, 09:16 PM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Quick question...

I just checked to see how long my current AC compressor ran.. It's 73F outside .... I have the thermostat set to 73F and it ran for 13 mins. It was off for 9 mins before it just kicked back on.

Based on that, could or should I go to a 4 ton unit or should I stick with a 3.5ton unit?

BTW, anyone know if the Rheem RP14 has demand defrost? If it does, I might go with it instead of the Goodman SSZ14...

Thanks!
 
  #34  
Old 09-08-15, 07:35 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 186
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Based on that, could or should I go to a 4 ton unit or should I stick with a 3.5ton unit?
Not realistically. Most every digital thermostat has a CPH setting (cycles per hour). This allows the system to come on even when heat/cool is not really called for. It "anticipates" that call in an attempt to keep the temperature as even as possible, so your thermostat may be acting on an actual heat/cool change, or it may be acting simply on anticipation.

(The IAQ btw unlike cheaper stats has a completely customizable anticipation setting if you don't like the system come on so frequently)

As far as I know all rheems have demand defrost, but you should check just to be sure.
 
  #35  
Old 09-08-15, 08:28 AM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Bob... I checked the Furnace's Blower and it's only rated at 3.5tons... So it looks like I'll be sticking with a 3.5T condenser.. I called York and they also stated the blower was rated at 1200CFM.
http://www.upgnet.com/PdfFileRedirec...001-A-0601.PDF

As for demand defrost on the Rheem RP14. The 1st dealer said He didn't think so, because it's based on Rheem's Classic series and they didn't have demand defrost. I called a 2nd dealer and was told they did not know... I don't understand how both dealers I called didn't know...

UPDATE - I was able to find a phone number for Rheem/Ruud... Was told by the nice CS rep that it did have On-Demand Defrost... I guess you're right about all Rheem units having the feature.. Now why didn't the 2 other dealers know?

I'm having a heck of a time finding a uncased coil that works in my current case. My local distributor doesn't carry left hand coils.. I need a ADP # HE36948A200A0004AP. I really don't want to have to punch holes in my existing case when I know there's a coil that's a direct fit...
 
  #36  
Old 09-11-15, 04:56 PM
crabjoe's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 299
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So.. I ordered the Prestige...

* Honeywell YTHX9421R5127WW Prestige 2-Wire IAQ Kit With Internet WiFi Gateway
* Honeywell C7089R1013 Wireless RedLink Sensor

As far as I can tell, between those two, I should be good...

BTW, I currently have a Honeywell Humidifier... Can this thermostat control it?

Thanks!
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: