Trane Heat Pump Won't Turn On

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Old 01-09-15, 06:32 PM
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Wife is Upset - Help! Trane X14i won't turn on

I have a Trane Heat pump and a Honeywell thermostat that was set to heat @ 67 degrees and we noticed today that it wasn't on and the temp inside was 57 but still set to 67. If I switch the thermostat to Emergency Heat, the emergency heat will turn on. I went to the outside unit and opened the corner and everything looked normal from what I could tell. I pressed the middle of the contactor and the outside unit turned on while I held the center of the contacor in. I'm in Maryland and the temps have been below zero for several days straight but the problem just started today. Any thoughts?
 
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Old 01-09-15, 06:57 PM
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The first thing to do is to ensure the correct voltage is going to the contactor as shown by the attached diagram. Need to test across the two 24V terminals, across L1 and L2 and across T1 and T2 when there is a call for heat.
 
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Old 01-09-15, 07:39 PM
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Thanks! I'm waiting for my electrician neighbor to come test it. Is there anything else I should have him check while he's here? He'll be here in 5 minutes.
 
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Old 01-09-15, 07:44 PM
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If the voltages readings are correct at the test points the "plunger" on the contactor should pull in. If that is good the next thing to check would be the dual run capacitor. To do that the capacitance need to be tested to see if they are within specs as listed on the label. For that test the power must be turned off and the capacitor discharged. Hopefully, your friend's meter has the feature to test the capacitance (micro farads). Also, check for burnt wires and terminals going to the run capacitor and contactor.
 
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Old 01-09-15, 08:18 PM
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My electrician is not an hvac guy so things are a bit confusing but he said the points you said to check have 120 volts (not 24 volts) and that there's only power going through them when the button in the middle is halfway pressed in. When it's not pressed in and when it's pressed in completely, he wasn't getting a reading of power going through. When it was pressed in, the unit/fan kicked on though so I'm not sure how it wouldn't have power on the contactor. He was kind of drunk and not familiar with hvac so that probably didn't help. Maybe I should try again tomorrow. Also, I wasn't about to view your attachment. Either way, thanks for your help!
 
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Old 01-09-15, 08:32 PM
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He said the points you said to check have 120 volts (not 24 volts)
The reading acrpss L1 and L2 should be 240V. That is the power coming in from the disconnect.
With the thermostat calling for heat the reading across the two terminals on the side of the contactor should be 24V. Your friend was probably reading from L1 and L2 to ground. All testing must be done ACROSS the test points. It sounds like the contactor is not pulling in. If 24V is present on the two side terminals and the plunger does not pull in the contactor is bad.

Also, I wasn't about to view your attachment.
I'm not sure why. It shows upon my computer. The attachment would have helped explain the voltage test points.
 
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Old 01-10-15, 05:39 AM
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I had the emergency heat on until it came up to 67 and then switched the thermostat to heat and the outside unit kicked on and ran on heat (with the help of auxiliary heat) through the night. Could the thermostat be going bad? The batteries are pretty new Duracells so they're fine. It seemed a little glitchy when I was switching it from heat to emergency heat and back to heat.
 
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Old 01-10-15, 07:22 AM
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Yes, it could be the thermostat. You can bypass it to see if it is the issue. To bypass it, turn off power to the air handler. Remove the wires from the R, Y and G terminals and twist them together.
Then restore power. That should bring on the heat pump and blower in heat mode and continue to run until you shut off power and untwist the wires. If it does operate like that it points to the thermostat as being the problem.
 
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