Condensor fan running but compressor is not

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Old 10-12-15, 02:45 PM
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Condensor fan running but compressor is not

The air coming out of the registers is room temp.(currently 82 degrees). I checked the start and run capacitors and they are good, 320 uf and 60uf. I ohmed out the start relay coil and it read 1.5 ohms. I have no idea if that's correct. The voltage across start relay terminals 1 & 2 goes to 420vac as soon as power is applied but compressor isn't on. Compressor resistance was 1.5 and .5 ohms. Highest current reading I got was 9 amps on the purple wire. Red and black wire was less the 5 amps. How can I determine if my compressor is bad? Can't get service until Thursday so I wanted to see if I could find something simple that's causing this problem. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 10-12-15, 04:03 PM
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If you are telling us that the outside fan is running but the compressor is not.... the problem is directly compressor related.... not the contactor.

Is that a typo..... 420v ?? Should measure around 240vac.

You need to check and see if the compressor is hot. If it's drawing that kind of amperage it must be doing something unless the low pressure switch has been bypassed and you're out of refrigerant.
 
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Old 10-12-15, 04:54 PM
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The contactor is working correctly but had questions about the start relay. The start relay reads closed between terminals 1 and 2. Between 1 and 5, I read 1.5 ohms. When energized it reads 420vac between 1 and 2 and 240vac between 1 and 5. The conclusion I reach is that 1 and 2 open up causing it to read 420. I'm assuming it needs to stay closed to allow the compressor to use the start capacitor until it's ready to start using the run capacitor. I'm basing this on the schematic unless I'm reading it wrong.
I guess I should mention that the evaporator coil was replaced last week. It had been running fine. Today when I got home I noticed that it sounded different and that it was only running the fan.
 
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Old 10-12-15, 05:18 PM
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What's the make and model of the condensor unit ?
If it uses a start relay I need to see how it's set up.

A capacitor doesn't store power for the compressor to use. When the compressor starts..... the capacitor is in series with the start winding and appears as a dead short to that winding supplying it with full current. After a split second the cap charges and then no longer keeps the start winding energized. While the compressor is running the start cap will show 240v across it as the start winding is keeping it energized. When you power down the contactor.... the cap discharges quickly.... usually in a few seconds. Some can hold the charge a little longer.

It still sounds to me like you may be out of refrigerant.
 
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Old 10-12-15, 05:27 PM
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It's a Weatherking 10PJA6001.
Well it was a unusually cool day when the evaporator was replaced. The install guy said the pressure looked low but he didn't want to overcharge it. I don't understand pressures I'm just repeating what he said. He said that when it warms up and it's not cooling to give them a call to check it again. So I guess I will wait for them.
 
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Old 10-14-15, 10:01 AM
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Well they checked the refrigerant and they said it was fine. They replaced the run capacitor, start relay, start capacitor, and the compressor didn't start. They even installed a hard start. They ohmed out the compressor and it checked out ok. Had current flow but it was about 4 amps. It wasn't locked up they said since the current never went real high. Getting a quote now on a new compressor and a new condenser unit so that I can decide which direction I want to go.
I'm assuming it would be best to go with a new condenser? The reversing valve was already making a loud noise when the unit shut off so that tells me to go with a new condenser. Cost would be my only concern. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
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Old 10-14-15, 10:50 AM
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Hang tight..... let the other pros respond.

Somethings fishy here. They replaced the evaporator coil and a week later the compressor craps out. That could indicate improper replacement of the evap coil.
 
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Old 10-17-15, 06:27 PM
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Well I've searched the net trying to find out how a compressor can ohm out good and have voltage but the compressor not kick on. Is it ok to try to run the condenser with the fan disconnected? I mean just for minute to listen to the compressor .
 
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Old 10-17-15, 11:30 PM
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Yes..... you can run the compressor for a short time without the fan.

You should hear it start and vibrate if running.
The small copper line should get hot almost immediately.
The large line should get cold.

I wouldn't run it for more than a minute. If you feel it run but it doesn't get hot then it's a mechanical breakdown..... broken rod, broken valve, etc.

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Old 10-23-15, 01:28 PM
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Just looking for advice at this point. Since my heat pump is down my options per my AC service company are to replace the r22 compressor for $1600 or replace the whole unit with a 410 unit for $5k. I keep reading all these negatives on a 410 systems but then you read about phasing out r22 and risings costs. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
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Old 10-23-15, 05:41 PM
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I don't believe we know the age of the system.

Nothing wrong with going the r22 method. Plenty of r22 still around. r22 still kicks 410's butt.
You mentioned a possibly defective reversing valve..... has that been figured in ?
A new filter/dryer is a must.


Is this the same service company that replaced your evaporator ? No one commented here but I'm still questioning the failure and the timing. I'm questioning cleanliness of the refrigerant lines. If they replaced the evap and allowed crap into the system.... the crap is still there.

The r22 should be removed from the system and be re-used again if there is no contamination issues.

What will they give you for a warranty ?
 
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Old 10-23-15, 08:47 PM
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Warranty on a compressor is 1 year and one year on workmanship labor.

Warranty on 410 unit is 10 years and one year workmanship labor.

Due to all the rain I haven't had a chance to look further into the compressor to see if its like you said a bad piston.

My current unit is 14.5 years old. There was a loud screech about 5 minutes after it would shutoff and they told me it was the reversing valve. So I'm assuming it is going bad.
 
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Old 10-25-15, 04:02 PM
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Idk it sounds like you either need to have the entire system replaced or get a different hvac company over there, get a second opinion.

I will say I was involved in a similar situation earlier this year. Hvac company kept coming and charging me outrageous $. The system eventually started to work. Then like magic 2 weeks later my compressor did blow.

I basically said screw those guys, bought the new equipment and the tools. Read alot and watched youtube videos. Installed the stuff myself. The new 410 refrigerant isn't regulated so anyone can buy it. Basically need 410 gauges, vaccum pump, recovery tank, acetylene torch, silver solder, inert gas. I paid 2000$ for new everything and the tools. Complete split goodman system with 20kw emergency heat.

This site is the best I found, Buy Goodman Heat Pump | Geothermal Heat Pumps | Goodman Air Conditioner

I practiced soldering on a couple scrap pieces of copper I had laying around. I'm pretty handy so this wasn't that big of a deal. I just felt like my hvac company completely screwed me over so I refused to give them another dime. Plus after I did the install I could do it again and again. I don't have to rely on hvac company ever. For what I pay them for service I could replace the whole unit.
 
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Old 10-28-15, 09:38 PM
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That's pretty impressive! Wish I had more time to learn all that so that I could do it myself.
On another note how is the new unit working for you? Is it just as good as the R22 unit you replaced? Granted if you have any issues you can pretty much repair it yourself. Maybe someday I'll get to that point.
 
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