Upstairs heat pump trouble?
#1
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Upstairs heat pump trouble?
I have noticed the upstairs heat doesn't seem to be working that well. It seems to have been blowing cool air all winter, but only gets hot when the AUX heat kicks on. We have gas heat downstairs. The unit outside hums, and then makes this noise about every 40 seconds. Any ideas?
https://youtu.be/NWAxesivm1c
https://youtu.be/NWAxesivm1c
#6
Can't tell from the video. I hear a hum then what sounds like a lawnmower starting.
I don't see the fan move at all. I don't think it's a capacitor problem. I don't know what's humming but that would need to be determined.
Is the contactor staying engaged all the way ?
Are you going to try to service this ? If not.... it may be time for professional service as it doesn't appear to be a cut and dried problem. I would not allow the unit to keep doing that either.
I don't see the fan move at all. I don't think it's a capacitor problem. I don't know what's humming but that would need to be determined.
Is the contactor staying engaged all the way ?
Are you going to try to service this ? If not.... it may be time for professional service as it doesn't appear to be a cut and dried problem. I would not allow the unit to keep doing that either.
#8
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If it is just the capacitor, I might try to change that out myself. The unit just hums, and makes that start up sound every 40 seconds ... over and over again. I just cut off the breaker outside to the unit so it stopped making that noise.
The fan upstairs blows, but doesn't seem to have any warm air coming out unless the AUX engages.
The fan upstairs blows, but doesn't seem to have any warm air coming out unless the AUX engages.
#9
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Here is another video. I turned the breaker on, the unit tries to start up, then tries again 30 seconds later, then I turn the breaker off. This cycle just repeats and repeats if I leave power on. The fan moves freely if I manually turn it. Thanks for all the help guys
https://youtu.be/ZLbEbgwoHe8
https://youtu.be/ZLbEbgwoHe8
#10
That is the contactor humming. That means the compressor and fan are getting power. The fan isn't running...... you could try a little push with a stick to see if it starts spinning but that compressor sounds like it's bad. I've never heard a scroll compressor sound like that.
I was checking on warranty as I thought you might sneak under 10 year warranty but that model only come with a 5 year warranty on compressor.
Leave the breaker only on for testing.
I was checking on warranty as I thought you might sneak under 10 year warranty but that model only come with a 5 year warranty on compressor.
Leave the breaker only on for testing.
#11
#13
Really..... fan motor and compressor on a ten year old unit.
That would pretty much mean the entire condensor should be replaced.
That would pretty much mean the entire condensor should be replaced.
#15
Get a second opinion.
It is highly, highly unlikely that the compressor and fan motor are bad especially on a 10 year old unit.
It makes zero sense what so ever to change a compressor and fan motor - better to change the entire condenser and get a decent warranty. Easier for the tech too - could of lines to braze, electrical connections; compressor replacement is far more involved. A 10 year old machine will be at least 13 seer, a dry 13 seer r22 model could be used if the existing one is r22.
I suspect that there's a power supply problem - could be a bad connection somewhere. When there's an open circuit, voltage will be normal; it's only when power is flowing that a bad connection will reveal itself.
When a compressor cycles on overload with a good capacitor and proper voltage, a hard start kit should be tried.
It is highly, highly unlikely that the compressor and fan motor are bad especially on a 10 year old unit.
It makes zero sense what so ever to change a compressor and fan motor - better to change the entire condenser and get a decent warranty. Easier for the tech too - could of lines to braze, electrical connections; compressor replacement is far more involved. A 10 year old machine will be at least 13 seer, a dry 13 seer r22 model could be used if the existing one is r22.
I suspect that there's a power supply problem - could be a bad connection somewhere. When there's an open circuit, voltage will be normal; it's only when power is flowing that a bad connection will reveal itself.
When a compressor cycles on overload with a good capacitor and proper voltage, a hard start kit should be tried.
#16
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Get a second opinion.
Also you can hear the compressor is not seized because you can hear it attempt to turn over. I would suspect the cap long before anything else.
If they are actually both shot then no sense in repairing... just replace the whole thing. The door is slowly closing on R22 and it will soon get extremely expensive to work with.
#18
I don't think we're dealing with a cap issue as related to the compressor. That compressor motor is spinning but the scroll part has a problem.
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Replaced compressor $331, motor $89, capacitor $5, 2 lbs r22 freon $30, labor $75 for $530 total with 1 year warranty. He was here for almost 2 hours. It runs great now.
#21
You better take that guy out to dinner or give him a nice tip. You basically were charged wholesale(contractor) prices.